Transmission service- dropping the pan to get to filter
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Clone of the Mean
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Clone of the Mean
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Wonder what happened to my post????
Yes you can remove the tranny pan without disconnecting the sway bar. But in my opinion it's best to drop the sway bar down, it only takes undoing the 4 bolts from the frame. And remember there will be a bunch of fluid left in the pan after you drain it it, so don't tilt the pan! Tranny fluid tastes like shit.....
Yes you can remove the tranny pan without disconnecting the sway bar. But in my opinion it's best to drop the sway bar down, it only takes undoing the 4 bolts from the frame. And remember there will be a bunch of fluid left in the pan after you drain it it, so don't tilt the pan! Tranny fluid tastes like shit.....
No the oil pan is in front of the sway bar.
Now that i was able to take a closer look there is a slightly smaller transmission-looking pan with a drain plug as well just after the tranny pan. What would this be? Its not something that can be dropped easily though.
I'm not used to Toyotas so please forgive me. Just curious
Thanks
Tim
KidVermicious
New member
I'm fairly certain the automatic transmission shares fluid with the transfer case.
OP, you better throw up some pics so we can see exactly what you're looking at. Your sway bar is going to run between the front control arms, that's nowhere near your transmission fluid pan.
OP, you better throw up some pics so we can see exactly what you're looking at. Your sway bar is going to run between the front control arms, that's nowhere near your transmission fluid pan.
gtgt_bangbang
New member
there are two pans on the 340H, and while the tranny & transfer sections are likely not sealed off from e/o, looking at the cross section indicates it would be a real stretch to call it shared fluid.
FSM says to fill both sections thru separate drain plugs to start things off right
FSM says to fill both sections thru separate drain plugs to start things off right
HanginInUtah
New member
Oh, love the transmission comments...
I've done a ton of research on this one, when when mine went out. I've replaced it, and I've done the fluid a time or two.
Undo the sway bar bushings on both sides and let it hang. It will fight you if you don't. Also, remove your front driveline. You can get the pan out, but again, you'll fight it. With the dipstick attached to the pan, and having to work the pan to get it off the upper dipstick tube, the less obstacles the better.
Now, there is a separate drain plug and fill plug on the back of the transfer case. This is separate from the drain pan under the transfer case. The drain pan (and the front of the Tcase) is filled from the transmission tube. Because of the way this trans/transfer case works hydraulically, that's how the fluid works. Use DexIII for both.
Also, you can get a pan gasket for the tranny, but not the transfer case. That one is just sealed up, and I used the Permatex 1 Minute sealant to do mine. Worked great.
I've done a ton of research on this one, when when mine went out. I've replaced it, and I've done the fluid a time or two.
Undo the sway bar bushings on both sides and let it hang. It will fight you if you don't. Also, remove your front driveline. You can get the pan out, but again, you'll fight it. With the dipstick attached to the pan, and having to work the pan to get it off the upper dipstick tube, the less obstacles the better.
Now, there is a separate drain plug and fill plug on the back of the transfer case. This is separate from the drain pan under the transfer case. The drain pan (and the front of the Tcase) is filled from the transmission tube. Because of the way this trans/transfer case works hydraulically, that's how the fluid works. Use DexIII for both.
Also, you can get a pan gasket for the tranny, but not the transfer case. That one is just sealed up, and I used the Permatex 1 Minute sealant to do mine. Worked great.
gtgt_bangbang
New member
Did I space out the fact that there's no fill plug on the transmission section?
Probably, so kudos to you dude,
The tranny and the transfer are still separate units as far as initial fill & topping up go.
Checking the transfer fluid level requires a finger in the fill plug port.
Topping through the plug until it runs out this is good as you need worry about, the FSM wants it within a millimeter or so of that port.
My late 2nd gen transmission fill tube has a slip joint between the upper tube section bolted to the manifold (where the dipstick goes) and the lower section tube permanently joined the pan. If you can get it apart at the slip joint, you don't have to wrestle the entire tube at once. There's an O ring in the slip joint but I sealed that joint three different ways because it looked like a good spot for dirt work down into the fill tube. It is still doable to remove the entire tube in one swoop if your trucks up high enough, which isn't hard.
I think the original poster was confusing the transfer pan with the tranny pan, the transfer pan requires you drop the transmission crossmember and probably the transmission mount to access. As mentioned, the tranny pan requires you to drop the sway bar and the front driveshaft.
The original Toy spec called for Dexron II, which I believe is no longer available, however a variety of transmission fluids indicate Dexron II specs are met.
Valvoline DEX/MERC ATF and DEX IV thru VI for instance are all labeled as surpassing Dex II specs which is good enough for me. For what it's worth, I believe DEX III is getting hard to find. If I recall, I have Synthetic Valvoline DexMerc in mine (because it was available in gallons much cheaper than quarts, and I had a complete fill to do and the transmission police have not kicked in my door.
Official capacities are
10.9 qts (complete fill, ie torque converter replacement, including 1 qt initial fill into the TC) or 4.8 qt (pan only) for the trans,
1.2 qt / 0.8 qt. into the the transfer
Type F is the main nono due to 'friction modifier' content ( or lack of).
The transfer case uses the same fluid type as the trans.
I've recently become a convert to RightStuff sealer, particularly the small caulk gun version; I bought two tubes with a dispenser for about $25, one tube was more than enough for an entire rebuild. Caulk gun style is great since it allows you to lay down proper precise thin bead ( minimum squeeze out when clamped) . I understand I'll pay the price for outstanding sealing if I ever try to pull one of those pans. I skipped all pan gaskets on this build.
For anyone worried about the transmission filter, my version simply had a wire screen Down there, no paper / fine filter element. For that reason alone, I will be damn sure not to get dirt in there because there is no filter to stop any particle smaller than grain of sand or so.
There are a handful of magnets scattered around the pans, Field service manual actually has overly specific locations describe for each of the magnets. I typically put a bad ass magnet outside of the pan , either on or near the drain plugs so I can remove it and Hopefully the metal particles go with the flow.
Probably, so kudos to you dude,
The tranny and the transfer are still separate units as far as initial fill & topping up go.
Checking the transfer fluid level requires a finger in the fill plug port.
Topping through the plug until it runs out this is good as you need worry about, the FSM wants it within a millimeter or so of that port.
My late 2nd gen transmission fill tube has a slip joint between the upper tube section bolted to the manifold (where the dipstick goes) and the lower section tube permanently joined the pan. If you can get it apart at the slip joint, you don't have to wrestle the entire tube at once. There's an O ring in the slip joint but I sealed that joint three different ways because it looked like a good spot for dirt work down into the fill tube. It is still doable to remove the entire tube in one swoop if your trucks up high enough, which isn't hard.
I think the original poster was confusing the transfer pan with the tranny pan, the transfer pan requires you drop the transmission crossmember and probably the transmission mount to access. As mentioned, the tranny pan requires you to drop the sway bar and the front driveshaft.
The original Toy spec called for Dexron II, which I believe is no longer available, however a variety of transmission fluids indicate Dexron II specs are met.
Valvoline DEX/MERC ATF and DEX IV thru VI for instance are all labeled as surpassing Dex II specs which is good enough for me. For what it's worth, I believe DEX III is getting hard to find. If I recall, I have Synthetic Valvoline DexMerc in mine (because it was available in gallons much cheaper than quarts, and I had a complete fill to do and the transmission police have not kicked in my door.
Official capacities are
10.9 qts (complete fill, ie torque converter replacement, including 1 qt initial fill into the TC) or 4.8 qt (pan only) for the trans,
1.2 qt / 0.8 qt. into the the transfer
Type F is the main nono due to 'friction modifier' content ( or lack of).
The transfer case uses the same fluid type as the trans.
I've recently become a convert to RightStuff sealer, particularly the small caulk gun version; I bought two tubes with a dispenser for about $25, one tube was more than enough for an entire rebuild. Caulk gun style is great since it allows you to lay down proper precise thin bead ( minimum squeeze out when clamped) . I understand I'll pay the price for outstanding sealing if I ever try to pull one of those pans. I skipped all pan gaskets on this build.
For anyone worried about the transmission filter, my version simply had a wire screen Down there, no paper / fine filter element. For that reason alone, I will be damn sure not to get dirt in there because there is no filter to stop any particle smaller than grain of sand or so.
There are a handful of magnets scattered around the pans, Field service manual actually has overly specific locations describe for each of the magnets. I typically put a bad ass magnet outside of the pan , either on or near the drain plugs so I can remove it and Hopefully the metal particles go with the flow.
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