Transmission Temperature Spikes

Yeah they have a small external. My buddy has a 2006 with a V8. Maybe head over to the 4th gen section and see if there is anyone that can help

Appreciate that. I've posted a couple times recently, but that was more of looking at a 4.0 V6 that had a head gasket failure for cheap, but come to realize that it wouldnt be much different than my 3.4. I'm sure there is a ton of info on the 4.7.

yes they have an auxiliary cooler.


Transmission aux cooler flow direction


I haven't done much towing with mine, but have pulled some long steep grades at speed, in the middle of summer with the AC on. using the torque app to monitor the trans temps, I barely saw 200°.



as to that dyno chart, its a bit hard to believe. ive driven a few 3rd gens with factory SC's, and they were in no way comparable to my v8 as far as power goes. it wasn't even close.

Right on, probably with the V8 you are not pushing nearly as hard as the 3.4 when towing.

That dyno is from a 7th injector TRD S/C, which adds roughly 30 RWHP & 30 RWTQ over a stock supercharger. Was trying to find something comparable to Toy2Play's engine since it's got the 2.2" pulley.

Toyota's posted max Engine torque for the V8 is 320, so 260 is about right if you factor in ~20% drivetrain loss due to the 4WD components and transmission, since the original test is done on an engine dyno, not a chassis dyno (320*0.8=256). I did see it's on a Lexus GX470, which is the 4Runner's big brother so that might be part of it, I wonder if the 4Runner's numbers are bit higher.

On another note, don't buy that aFe intake unless you can flash the ECU lol. It leans out the AFR's to over 14!

That's true, forgot that the numbers toyota quote is not at the wheels.
 
One last question, seeing spikes of transmission temps to 250* on rare occasions and say more times around 220-230*, but in general normal operating temps, only thing it's damaging is the fluid? When I do drain and fills, my fluid is surprisingly clean.
 
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One last question, seeing spikes of transmission temps to 250* on rare occasions and say more times around 220-230*, but in general normal operating temps, only thing it's damaging is the fluid? When I do drill and fills, my fluid us surprisingly clean.

That's what everything I've found on the subject says, yes. Just cuts the service life of the fluid. I never caught where you're gauge is getting it's reading at?
 
That's what everything I've found on the subject says, yes. Just cuts the service life of the fluid. I never caught where you're gauge is getting it's reading at?

Installed aftermarket gauge and gets it reading on the transmission(return?)line just before it goes into the radiator. Cooler is installed after the radiator in series with a inline filter before the oil goes back into the tranny.
 
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Someone else posted some very interesting information about transmissions and transmission fluid. I thought it would we good to have here.
Tranny Temp Message on a 3100# trailer normal? - TundraTalk.net - Toyota Tundra Discussion Forum

When you truck is not moving, or moving slow, and you step on gas hard, what is allowing the engine to turn while the truck tires don't move is the torque converter. The torque converter has plates in close tolerance to each other with transmission fluid in between the plates. One plate is spinning very close to a second plate this is not spinning and the transmission fluid in between creates friction which transfers the torque from the spinning plate to the non-spinning plate. This is how a car/truck can be in gear and stopped with the engine running. The constant pull is the torque converter spinning. But the spinning causes a lot of heat. And the faster you turn the engine, the more friction you create, the more heat you create. That is why when you tried to back up with a high engine load and a high load from the trailer, you created enough heat to cause the transmission temp light to come on.

When a truck is up to speed on a road and you let off on the gas, you can often feel the transmission torque converter lock up which is a set of clutches that come together between the plates and lock them in place. When the torque converter locks up, no more heat is generated. When you step on the gas to accelerate or are pulling something heavy, the torque converter unlocks, the engine speed picks up, and you are back to having the plates spin against each other and generate heat. Pulling trailers with a toque converter unlocked generates a lot of heat and is often the cause of the transmission failing.

As your transmission fluid gets old, it looses it's frictional properties and it takes more engine spin to create the same output force. You may find that a transmission fluid change will help some. Or you may notice no difference. But chances are good it will help.

The other thing going on is that the transmission has pressure in it which are used to make it shift. When the transmission is in gear, the solenoids inside the trans direct fluid to first, second, third, etc gear and when the fluid pressure is sent there, a band clamps down around a shaft and that is how the transmission changes gear. If your transmission fluid is bad, or the transmission needs rebuilt, it may not be building enough pressure to hold the band tight enough to keep the shaft from spinning. This is called slipping. Or the band may be just worn out and can't stop the shaft from turning. But one thing is for sure, a transmission does not slip for long. When the friction surface (like a brake pad) wears off, it's done and time for a complete rebuild.

Poor quality transmission fluid (ie, old worn out fluid) and/or a clogged trans filter and/or leaking seals in the transmission can all cause poor pressure and cause slipping.

It is hard to know if the torque convert was just slipping like normal, or if the low gear band was slipping, or both.

But the moral of the story is don't spin your engine hard when your wheels wont turn or you are under heavy load (like a heavy trailer up hill). Jack rabbit starts, racing, flooring it all the time, etc. That is how you wreck a transmission. And the older the transmission, the more you need to baby it.

Burnt transmission oil smell means things have gone very badly and it is time to go to the parts store and look for something that says "miracle" on the bottle and try to poor that in there.
 
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The more I read other threads on transmission temperature the more I feel like I'm stressing over a non-issue. On various tundra threads, it's not abnormal to see tranny temps of 230-240 even higher when pulling up an incline. As long as it's not staying in those ranges for long periods of time, its sounds like it's fine. Worst case is to change out fluid more often which I already do as a preventive maintenance thing.
 
Yes the torque converter is the only thing that puts heat into the trans fluid.
The hydraulic pump that pumps the fluid for the trans also makes heat, as does other sources of friction in the trans. The torque converter is the largest (and most variable) source of heat through.

-Charlie
 
The more I read other threads on transmission temperature the more I feel like I'm stressing over a non-issue. On various tundra threads, it's not abnormal to see tranny temps of 230-240 even higher when pulling up an incline. As long as it's not staying in those ranges for long periods of time, its sounds like it's fine. Worst case is to change out fluid more often which I already do as a preventive maintenance thing.
This is the camp I have been in for a long time. I see people here freaking out over 200*F trans fluid... not sure why. It is easy to do a quick drain and refill of the trans every 15k miles, or even 30k if you use high quality fluid. Regular fluid changes will keep everything happy. Occasional spikes to higher temps are fine, it won't blow up the trans. Try to keep it under 200*F for most operating conditions and 160-180*F is ideal.

All those rules for trans temp were for gauges in the pan with much older technology fluids. Our temp sender (the OEM '99+ OBD-II sensor) is in the SEND line for the trans, just before the fluid gets cooled and sent back to the pan. The average fluid temp is lower than what you see on your gauge...

-Charlie
 
Installed a Long 4490 cooler in series with the radiator cooler this past weekend. It was the absolute largest cooler I could fit.

I'm running heavy 33's with (heavier) Tundra steelies on anemic 3.91 gears. (15" wheel truck when new).

My trans regularly stayed in the low 200's-220's, just cruising on flat land. It was lugging and needs a re-gear terribly..

And now, after the cooler, I can not get the temp above 135! It will occasionally hit 140 on grades.

Isn't that too cold? There is an operating temp for trans fluid, just like engine oil/coolant, yes?
 
Installed a Long 4490 cooler in series with the radiator cooler this past weekend. It was the absolute largest cooler I could fit.

I'm running heavy 33's with (heavier) Tundra steelies on anemic 3.91 gears. (15" wheel truck when new).

My trans regularly stayed in the low 200's-220's, just cruising on flat land. It was lugging and needs a re-gear terribly..

And now, after the cooler, I can not get the temp above 135! It will occasionally hit 140 on grades.

Isn't that too cold? There is an operating temp for trans fluid, just like engine oil/coolant, yes?

Run it in series with the radiator instead of bypassing it. If you are worried about it going in too cold to the transmission, you can run it transmission sender line --> radiator --> cooler --> transmission return line. Most instructions tell you to keep the stock cooler in the system anyway.
 
The more I read other threads on transmission temperature the more I feel like I'm stressing over a non-issue. On various tundra threads, it's not abnormal to see tranny temps of 230-240 even higher when pulling up an incline. As long as it's not staying in those ranges for long periods of time, its sounds like it's fine. Worst case is to change out fluid more often which I already do as a preventive maintenance thing.

Heat is the killer of automatic transmissions. While it's not abnormal to see temps in the 230-240 range if you're going up a steep enough sustained grade, that doesn't mean it's not doing any harm to your transmission. What's considered long? I start thinking about pulling over and letting my trans cool down once I reach 230 degrees. If I'm on a long enough grade, 230 becomes 240, than 250, you get the point. I believe a rig driven by someone who frequents the mountains and 4wheels is going to have a trans that lasts fewer miles before needing major repairs or replacement compared to the soccer mom who uses her rig to take the kids to school and go grocery shopping. The difference between the 2 drivers is the heat that was generated in the trans while they were traveling.

The idiot light on the dash is there for people who don't monitor their trans temp. When it comes on, it's telling the person, "Hey idiot, you're frying your trans. Better stop before you destroy it." The idiot light comes on at 300 degrees.

If I can avoid high temps, I do. An external trans cooler, knowing that turning off OD when you're in that speed range of around 40-60mph to lock up the torque converter and knowing to use 4Lo when wheeling up sustained grades are all things that can help you keep your trans temps down.

It's just like temp spikes in an engine. Can your engine handle it. Yeah, more than likely. Could it also accelerate the demise of the engine, sure it could. I monitor my coolant and trans temps so I know when it's prudent to give my rig a rest. I'd rather give my rig a little rest and delay my arrival to wherever I'm going instead of burning up my engine or trans.
 
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Update: just got back from another camping trip. About 900 miles driven in total, maybe half of that on dirt roads. 4 Low definitely helps with keeping temperatures down. Thank you for this advice. [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION]Had extended periods of climbing going about 5-15 mph on steep grades and never saw temperatures over 200*. I also tried L in 2wd, I assume this just keeps it in 1st, which seemed to help as well. Can anyone confirm this? Even felt like 2-2wd on the shifter did better than D in certain situations. I saw max temp of 230* in D-2wd before switching to 4 low. It would have surely been over 250* if I hadn't been in 4 low for some of the climbs.

Overall very happy with the results and was easily able to keep my temperatures under 210 the whole time. Experienced almost all types of terrain. Only myself and maybe 300 pounds of extra gear on this trip. Now if I could do something about towing, I'd be set. I appreciate all the advice that was given.
 
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Update: just got back from another camping trip. About 900 miles driven in total, maybe half of that on dirt roads. 4 Low definitely helps with keeping temperatures down. Thank you for this advice. [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION]Had extended periods of climbing going about 5-15 mph on steep grades and never saw temperatures over 200*. I also tried L in 2wd, I assume this just keeps it in 1st, which seemed to help as well. Can anyone confirm this? Even felt like 2-2wd on the shifter did better than D in certain situations. I saw max temp of 230* in D-2wd before switching to 4 low. It would have surely been over 250* if I hadn't been in 4 low for some of the climbs.

Overall very happy with the results and was easily able to keep my temperatures under 210 the whole time. Experienced almost all types of terrain. Only myself and maybe 300 pounds of extra gear on this trip. Now if I could do something about towing, I'd be set. I appreciate all the advice that was given.


you are correct. L keeps it in 1st. 2 allows it to use 1st and 2nd. D with OD off allows it to use 1,2,3. D with OD on allows all 4 gears to be used. I'm pretty sure the torque converter gets locked out in different speeds depending on the gear. IE... if in D with OD off once you hit 40 or 45 it locks out the torque converter. that would apply to each "gear" IE L,2,D. Although it make work different when in 4wd LO.

Personally I love 4LO when wheeling any excuse I'm in it. More torque, slower crawl, less strain on transmission. wins all around. although it will not go into 4th while in 4wdLO. (at least in my 99 with the J shift.)
 
you are correct. L keeps it in 1st. 2 allows it to use 1st and 2nd. D with OD off allows it to use 1,2,3. D with OD on allows all 4 gears to be used. I'm pretty sure the torque converter gets locked out in different speeds depending on the gear. IE... if in D with OD off once you hit 40 or 45 it locks out the torque converter. that would apply to each "gear" IE L,2,D. Although it make work different when in 4wd LO.

Personally I love 4LO when wheeling any excuse I'm in it. More torque, slower crawl, less strain on transmission. wins all around. although it will not go into 4th while in 4wdLO. (at least in my 99 with the J shift.)

Yeah speed is limited with 4 low I started using L and 2 for this reason and the temperature was managable and was able to have a little more speed. You are correct, 4 low only uses 3 gears and i can maintain 15-20 mph comfortably.
 
Sorry to restart and hi Jack the thread a bit. I'm in a similar situation. Armored and winch up front. 4.88 gears onn 33s. Running a 70624 B&M in line with stock radiator. I can do a 15-20 minute drive from my house up a steep hill ( last 5 to 8 minutes of the drive) and hit 210. Once I top the hill it does start to come down. I haven't tried going up steep mountain grades yet as I'm still breaking in my new gears... I guess my question is knowing the stock cooler is at the send line ( hottest location) couldn't you run an independent temp sensor at the return line from the aux cooler to know the cooled temp? Meet in the middle and use that as a guide of real fluid temp (i.e. OEM send reads 220, aux return reads 180...real temp likely 200. ) . Or should we all just stop worrying about these low to mid 200 temps to get up grades if things cool down once over the hump so to speak?
 
I run lucas transmission fix and have been for over 100,000 miles and my transmission temps never go above 160. Most of the time it steadily runs around 120 to 130. This transmission has 325,000 miles and shifts smooth and consistently. Since I don't tow with this 25 year old SUV I never manually shift or take it out of OD. When the hills get big I use ECT all the time. The transmission has been rock solid on this 96 4 runner limited for over 25 years. I always have liked Lucas Transmission fix on older cars but on this 4 runner it has been very good.
 
I run lucas transmission fix and have been for over 100,000 miles and my transmission temps never go above 160. Most of the time it steadily runs around 120 to 130. This transmission has 325,000 miles and shifts smooth and consistently. Since I don't tow with this 25 year old SUV I never manually shift or take it out of OD. When the hills get big I use ECT all the time. The transmission has been rock solid on this 96 4 runner limited for over 25 years. I always have liked Lucas Transmission fix on older cars but on this 4 runner it has been very good.


Where are you sensing trans temp?


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