Tundra Coil/LC coil lift advice.

VA07

New member
I am looking for some advice on lifting my 2000 4Runner. I have started acquiring parts to do Tundra coils in the front, and LC coils in the rear.

Here is what I have already:
Double Purple/Gray/White and Green/Orange/White LC coils.
TRD Coils PN: 48131-AF090 (RH) and 48131-AF100 (LH)
3/8" top plate spacer with extended studs

What I still need:
1" Diff drop (I will be getting this from Cornfed as they are right down the street from me)
Adjustable Panhard Bar (Source unknown at this point)
Rear Shocks ( I am going to go with Stock LC replacements of an unknown brand, probably Billis)

And last but not least the one that I am having the most trouble figuring out, Front struts. I have found that you can go with OME N91 but have to either add a limiting strap or be really careful about full droop. Also DON'T use if you have a locker in the front, which I don't.
The other option I have found is a set of TRD "Blue" struts. This is the path that I would like to pursue but am having trouble deciphering all the information from here and YotaTech. I have a friend that has a set of BNIB TRD front struts. PN on box is 48510-A9160 and the PN on the strut boot is 48510-AD050. From searching through parts catalogs online these PN's seem inter-changeable.


My question:
1) Would the TRD struts be the correct ones? I have set the springs next to the struts and the struts seem really short for the spring.

2) Is the increase in cost of using the OME N91 plus adding limiting straps worth it?

3) Is my parts list complete or is there something that I am forgetting?

TIA
 
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I have a locker up front and no limiting straps with my OME N91SC shocks and wheel a lot - like every wekend. I have had no problems whatsoever, my CVs are just fine. I also know several people who have these struts and don't have limiting straps and they have had zero problems as well. Just an FYI.
 
I have a locker up front and no limiting straps with my OME N91SC shocks and wheel a lot - like every wekend. I have had no problems whatsoever, my CVs are just fine. I also know several people who have these struts and don't have limiting straps and they have had zero problems as well. Just an FYI.

I have heard that it is not an issue with the OME 883's because te spring is shorter than the Tundra springs. Therefore not pushing the N91's to their full extended length. From what I have read (take that for what it is worth) the little bit of difference between the 883's and the Tundra coils will push the CV just beyond what they are capable of handling without issue.

I do appreciate the input.
 
Honestly, save yourself this headache, and just go buy the struts that came with the coils you have. I bought mine as a unit (complete strut assemblies) and my struts are Bilsteins.......

P1110179.jpg~original
 
I read thread after thread on the shocks for the tundra set-up. My recommendation is to not use a 4runner/ tacoma based shock. When I got my used Sonoran kit it had the early Trekmaster 4runner shocks installed and I would bounce all over the place. I think the shock just did not match well to the longer coils. Sonoran steel was using "black" shocks before the Bilstein 5100's came out. I believe those are stock Tundra shocks. The OME shocks would be good, but by the time you get those you might as well buy the bilstein 5100 for the Tundra. I am using the stock Land Cruiser shocks in the back and they seem to be doing great. They are a little over 30 a piece online.
 
I have heard that it is not an issue with the OME 883's because te spring is shorter than the Tundra springs. Therefore not pushing the N91's to their full extended length. From what I have read (take that for what it is worth) the little bit of difference between the 883's and the Tundra coils will push the CV just beyond what they are capable of handling without issue.

I do appreciate the input.

The overall extended length of the strut doesn't depend on what coil is in there. The strut will still extend to it's max at full droop regardless. Mine won't go down any further if I try to force them down more because the strut is what stops it. Toytec also sells OME struts along with their top spacers (which go above the strut) and those increase the droop even further than what the OME strut will allow and this is one of their most popular lifts. I know many people who are running these top spacers above their OME struts and have no issues even after several years of wheeling on them. One has to ask why just the OME strut would be in the "danger zone" when people can run that in addition to the top spacer and still not break CVs after hard wheeling?

I know where this info derived from and I won't go into that, but all of my experience as well as my friends' experience, as well as many of the people on this and other forums experience (including Toytec) says otherwise. If this was really the case, I do not believe Toytec would sell hundreds or even thousands of these lifts without warning of such danger.

People just break CVs when they wheel with IFS, plain and simple. I have seen/read of just as many people breaking CVs with SS 1.2/7.2s and the various coilover kits available as I have seen/read about people breaking CVs with with OME struts. Take from this what you will, but that's what I have seen.
 
rjaudi: Thanks for the input. It sounds like I should either go with the OME or some kind of Tundra strut.


brian2sun: I see your point and it makes sense. I didn't know if the weight of a tire/wheel combo was enough to force the shocks to extend farther or if it also needed the additional pressure from the spring.

Since we both know what source of info I got that from: It is probably the single most confusing thread over there. Is there anything else from that source that you would like to share that may have lead me down and uninformed road?
 
I tried to find some Tundra TRD struts myself when doing my lift but found them incredible hard to find. I might have been looking in all the wrong places. I went with the Toytec 620 coils instead for right around 180 shipped after the T4R discount code. Got the 3 inches I wanted and the ride is great even with no added weight. No limiting straps and cv angle is find. Went with 7.5 wrap lc coils in the rear and they are great off road but are quite bouncy on the curvy back roads where I live and I get a lot of body roll so I plan to replace them with a stiffer coil.
 
found the coils and struts in a junkyard. the 8 wraps ride awesome but lift it pretty high. no complaints other than the fact that im still raking quite a bit even with the toytec top plate spacer on the tundra struts.

ive got a 2wd so im open to lift as high as can be aligned. lol. i just want to level it at this point. any ideas?
 
+1 for the Bilstein Tundra struts up front. It is the best riding setup I've personally been in and I read somewhere on here that the travel numbers of the Tundra Bilstein struts match those of Icon Ext. coilovers. (Take that for what it's worth, I personally can't verify it...) I don't run limit straps and wheel a lot as well. Never had an issue with my combination.

I made this thread a while back, have a read if you havent already! GL

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/101758-**rickashays-ome-vs-trd-tundra-lc-review**.html
 
Honestly, save yourself this headache, and just go buy the struts that came with the coils you have. I bought mine as a unit (complete strut assemblies) and my struts are Bilsteins.......

P1110179.jpg~original

i'm at a crossroad here! i have 906's/billies out back, that lifted 2". the 99 talls only lift 1". how much will the tundra coils lift? it's been 2 weeks since i did the back and want to do the fronts asap. i need to order the coils as well so i need to know what i need! the struts/billies i bought are from ajusa, part number 24-187244.
 
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If you use the Tundra Bilstein 5100, then you won't be needing the top plate spacers. Also the 3rd gen 4Runner rides better with the Tundra Bilstein 5100.

Please take note that there is a Tacoma Bilstein 5100 but it's too soft for the 4Runner.
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