Rock Rat's Imperial Jade Mica "Next Adventure" Build

2001 SR5 Sport Imperial Jade Mica with Grey Interior
Original Owner - October 24th 2000 - http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/195830-original-owners-only.html 15th Anniversary
Original mileage -12; Current Mileage - 323,252 (regular maintenance)

Reason for Build
Transition from one adventure as a mountain guide in the Himalayas to another adventure with the intention of building a vehicle for overland expeditions and mild off-road adventures

Deciding on Mods - The litmus test

• All preventative maintenance must be done before any mods
• All mods must enhance the vehicles ability both off road and on the highway
• All mods must be functional, well thought out and aesthetically pleasing
• Looking for "mild not wild" while maintaining much of the original look

From here on out I'll be using this thread exclusively and will link to all maintenance and mods. Links to each mod will be updated regularly. Feel free to ask questions.

Original Platform
2001 SR5 Sport, Imperial Jade Mica
4WD with TRAC and VSC
Gears - 4.10 - DELETE
Seats Grey Cloth


Updated Platform
Updated Gears from ECGS - 4.88's - May 11, 2016

Engine
3.4L V6
ISR Mod with Airaid
4" Deck Plate Mod
K&N Filter DELETE (Went back to OEM)
TB Gasket Mod
LCE Equalized Fuel Injectors
Optima Red Top
TRD Supercharger with 1.37 Pulley

Exhaust
TRD Headers - PN#00602-17141-007
TRD Cat Back Exhaust - PN#PTR06-89990-14
Cat Back Exhaust Installation
Magnaflow upstream 48 State Catalytic Converter - PN# 93258
Magnaflow direct fit downstream Catalytic Converter - PN# 93379

Armor
CBI Custom Built Sliders - Powder Coat, dimple plated 12 1/2° offset
Bud Built 3/16" Steel Powder Coat Front Skid
Bud Built 3/116" Steel Powder Coat Belly Skid
Shrockworks Bumper

• Limited/Sport Width at 72"
• Brackets for a 1" Body Lift
• Center Hoop and Headlight Guards

Suspension - Toytec Ultimate Lift
Front
600lb Silver Eibach Coils
Bilstein H5 Shocks
Light Racing Adjustable Camber/Caster SPC Upper Control Arms #LR25460
1" Differential Drop
Rear
OME-890 Rear Coils (OME-60028)
OME-60028 Nitrocharger Sport Shocks

Suspension Upgrades
Lower Control Arm and Spindle Installation
Installation of Lower Control Arm Bushings (WhiteLine)
Total Chaos Spindle Gussets Installation (Only includes installation on the spindle)


Brakes - 13WL Click Here for Thread
Front
Stop Tech Drilled and Slotted 2004 Tundra Rotors
Powerstop Brake Calipers 13WL
Wagner Thermo Quiet Ceramic Pads #QC976
Wheelers Off-Road red stainless brake lines
Rear
OEM Brake pads
Wheelers Off-Road red stainless brake line


Interior
New carpet
Extensive sound deadening project (99% complete)
LED lights
Weathertech
Additional 1000 lumen light in rear cargo area (Dec 5, 2015)
Pioneer DEH-X9600BHS Installation - May 1, 2016
Paranoid Fabrications Lighting Panel - May 1, 2016
Rear Cargo Door Lights - A-Series Rigid Industries- Apr 2016
Additional Photos of A-Series Lights Here
Fire Extinguisher Installation (MaxOut 2.5lb dry chemical)

Exterior Lighting
Corners PIAA Xtreme White
Headlamps - PIAA Xtrme White Plus 4000K
Fog lamps - PIAA Plasma Ion Yellow 2500K - Delete with new bumper
Fog Lamps - PIAA 510 SMR Xtreme White - Add with new bumper
How to Replace Turn Signal Flasher
How to replace flasher assembly AGAIN (This time with only about three steps!!)


Communication
Yaesu FT-7900R 2 Meter / 70 cm Dual Band FM Transceiver - Diamond Antenna NR770HBNMO with Diamond K400 mount welded on Whitson Rack
Midland 75-822 Portable/Mobile CB radio - Little Wil Magnet Mount CB Antenna
Midland X-TALKER T71VP3 38-mile 36-Channel Two-way Radios - FRS/GMRS - 10 NOAA
K17MJG

Preventative and Recent Maintenance
Replace Knock Sensors
Replace O2 Sensors
Plugs and wires, MAF etc...
Replace Timing Belt, WP, and Belts
Replace Original Radiator at 300K plus
Add B&M Transmission Cooler
Replace Original LBJ's, OTRE, ITRE, at 300K plus
Replace Leaking Transmission Pan and FIPG
Replace rear brake shoes
Replace Steering rack bushings - Total Chaos Urethane
Replace sway bar bushings
MAF Sensor - Nov 22 2015
Replace Fuel Filter Nov 22 2015
Replace Upstream and Downstream O2 Sensors Nov 22 2015
Torn CV Boot Emergency Repair - Band Aid
Replace spark plugs 2/14/2016 Denso K16TR11 - Mileage 330569
Plug wires 2/14/2016 - NGK RC-TE66 - Mileage 330569
Alternator 3/25/16 - Denso PN#270606216084 - Mileage 333333
Photos of Fuel Filter Cut in Half


Traded in these "4wheel drives" and the Mitsubishi Delica (photo is not mine) for my new 4runner, October 2000

Other Significant Posts
ARB Single Cylinder Compressor - CKMA12 Review
WABDR Stevenson to Nighthawk

Jade - Going back a few years

Original Purchase Date

• October 24, 2000 with 12 miles
• Special order - had to wait for the delivery from Japan
• McCord's Toyota in Vancouver, WA

Told the salesman exactly what I wanted and how much I was willing to pay with cash in hand. I ended up working directly with the manager when he realized I was serious.

Here's a few pics of her with some very low mileage!!!! She spent most of her life in the Cascades; Rainier, Hood, Sisters, Baker etc...

How she stands today

New Photos Added As OF May 2016
Additions/changes since December 2015;

• New Pioneer head unit
• Alpine R Series component speakers
• Finished Sound Deadening except the rear doors (99.9%)
• Additional PIAA 520 lights
• Rigid Industries Hyper Spots and CBI mounts
• A-Series Lights on rear cargo door
• 4.88 gears from ECGS
• NEW Cup Mod using OPTX cup lights
• Whitson Rack
• TRD Cat Back exhaust
• Replaced CV boots

Most Current Photos - 15 Year Anniversary Photo's

Since I've made so much progress on her as of today, I will post the different mods with as much "how-to's" and lessons learned as time permits.

I don't have a lot of major mods planned for the winter so I should have some time to go back and "clean up" most of the photos and document the progress as it happened.

As of today, 15 years later to the day, here's how she looks! Getting ready for winter soon. Will need to get some new rubber on my other wheels.

Suspension Upgrade

Decided on a Toytec Lift because it was well thought out, tried and true, great reputation as a proven performer. Furthermore, it was exactly what I was looking for to meet my needs.

Here's how she stood with just the lift and the 265/70R/16 Goodyear Fortera's on the original coke bottles.

New Wheels and Tires - MK6 Level 8

Time for New Wheels and Tires

Here's what I wanted in a wheel and tire package

• A 17" wheel for more highway stability
• Bronze to compliment the Jade and Gold Letter edition
• As close to original as possible
• Nice offset to avoid adding spacers
• Needed to fit over the tundra caliper
• I needed a comfortable ride - basically I didn't want to drive over a dime and tell whether it's heads or tails
  
  

Bronze 17" MK6 Level 8's with a -10 offset with Toyo AT's was the perfect package

• With the level 8 center cap
• With the TRD center cap

I went with the TRD center cap (Wife over ruled me with the color). There's just enough contrast to still compliment the wheel and tire package and the vehicle.

OK, so I failed the litmus test - but hey look at all that HP I gained



New wheels and tires from America's Tire

Man i want those wheels so bad, mostly for the extra width for my 315s and also because i hear the color is spot on for dorado gold.

I like the direction you're going with your build. The bronze wheels on that color are a match made in heaven.

Dorado Gold and Bronze MK6 Level 8 Wheels

D Farms said:

Man i want those wheels so bad, mostly for the extra width for my 315s and also because i hear the color is spot on for dorado gold.

Click to expand...

I went and dug up my original 2001 4Runner brochure with the color samples. (best I could do). Pretty darn close. I think the wheels are slightly darker, but very little. I tried using the eye dropper in PhotoShop but it's too inconsistent. Here's the best pic I could get for you:

I love IJM Sport 4Runners! Great thread.

Weathertech Liners

New Weathertech Liners

First let's see what they advertise and my ratings

Cargo Liners Offer:

• Interior protection from all types of wear and tear - Good
• Custom molded specifically for your vehicle - Good
• Easy installation - Excellent
• High outside lip that helps contain spills - Excellent
• Quick and easy cleanup - Excellent
• A skid-resistant surface - Excellent
• Protects and preserves the cargo area and trunk carpet - Excellent
• Toughness and durability - Good

Because I have both Husky Liners in my 2010 Camry and Weathertech liners in my 4runner I can actually make a good comparison. hands down I love the Weathertech's but they do have their drawbacks:

Cons

• Black is not black and you cannot get it to look black
• It's not a perfect fit but its far better than the Husky Liners
• They are supple (pro) but with any weight on them they will leave an indentation
• My drivers side WeatherTech label came off - stuck to my boot???
• No access points for your rear cargo tie downs

Pros

• They are supple and not a rigid piece of hard plastic
• Easy to clean (but will never be pure black) no problem for me
• I use soap and water and Meguiar's interior cleaner
• Although they aren't perfect their fitment is better than the Husky Liners

I use the Weathertech in the rear cargo area for most everything I do. I haven't had a need to tie anything down "yet". When that time comes, I think I'll replace the Weathertech with some vinyl or a heavy duty tarp, specifically fitted for that area. I saw where someone on here modified their liner so the D rings could pass through a small slot. I'm still thinking about that. I'm afraid that eventually it could start tearing there.

Keep in mind, the fitment for my liner will be different for you since I have 1/2" closed cell foam along with the rattle trap for my sound deadening. I've had to trim some of the closed cell foam just to get the carpet to fit correctly.

I keep my HiLift in the back on a blanket to prevent the indentations in the liner because of the weight. I plan on replacing the Hi Lift with a large capacity bottle jack one day for DD.

Overall, I'm extremely pleased with the Weathertech's and would buy them again over the Husky Liners.

New Carpet From StockInteriors

Time to Replace the Carpet

I did quite a bit of research before I decided on Stock Interiors. I had a lot of swatches sent to me and finally felt that Stock Interiors had the best carpet with a reasonable price.

I don't have anything bad to say about them. I've had the carpet in my vehicle for about a year now with absolutely no wear, or no "new" carpet smell.

Most of this is covered in the Sound Deadening project but here are a few of the missing pieces.

Installation

• Please use a good box cutter and NOT a plain straight razor! There's a video out there with a guy fitting his carpet for his 4Runner with just a blade.
• Measure twice - cut once
• See above ^^^^^^^^^
• When you do make your cuts, be conservative at first. You can trim as necessary once it's installed.
• Soak with Scotch Guard protector to prevent stains
• It should go without saying but be extremely careful trimming your carpet around the channels where the wire bundles are located. Use a piece of wood or something under the carpet to guarantee you DO NOT cut through them.

About the carpet:

It's darker than the OEM but I actually like it much better.
It's also extremely durable and has a better plush feel than OEM (this can be expected after 15 years of abuse!)

My Order:

• Toyota 4Runner '96-'02 Molded Carpet Complete Kit
• Color: 827 - Grey Plush Cut Pile
• Backing: MassBack

Lessons Learned

Stay away from this forum when you go to replace your carpet. You'll find yourself adding sound deadener, installing a new stereo system, new amplifier, new Inverter system. You know, all those things that you have to have and that must be installed just because you already have the interior all tore apart.

PUT IT back together - It can wait for another day!


Just an FYI - I still haven't completed the backs of my rear seats yet!! Lazy I guess. Seriously, it's about a half day project and I have had other projects that take priority.

EDIT: NEWS FLASH!!!! Finally completed my carpet installation June 12th 2016 including the back seats!! Took my time and completed it in 2 days. Yay!! Here's the link

Inexpensive Shackle Isolators

Inexpensive Shackle Isolators

Shrockworks advertise recovery points on the bumper for 3/4" shackles. Got this GREAT deal on these Smitty Built shackles. Threw a splash of red on the pin as a safety/aesthetic touch. When installed they're pretty sloppy.

Daystar sells the D-Ring Isolators for $10 plus shipping but I had my own ideas.

Equipment Needed

• 7/8" Heater hose
• Cutting tool (serrated knife, razor blade, whatever)
• Dawn detergent

Cut two 1/2" pieces off the hose per side. Lubricate with dawn, place on the pin on either side of the recovery point.

Keeps the Shackle extremely snug as you can see by the angle I have it raised.

Subscribed fellow original owner!!! The truck looks awesome!

Scramble said:

Subscribed fellow original owner!!! The truck looks awesome!

Click to expand...

Hey thanks! You've seen most of the progress over the past year but, hey, figured it was time to put it in a build thread. Love yours too. Hope you don't get blasted too badly this winter.

Deck Plate and ISR Mod

Deck Plate/ISR Mod - One of my Earliest Mods

Deck Plate Mod

• 4” deck Plate (I used white/clear because that’s all they had in the store)
• Six #8 screws
• Marine Grade Sealant compatible with ABS and doesn’t interfere with Sensors

Tools needed

• Something to trace the circle with on your intake box
• Dremel
• Screwdriver
• 3/8” drill
• Vacuum, shop air, dust off
• Ratchet, extension, socket

Discalaimer: I’m not going to go into too much detail about the installation process as this has been covered on every forum out there. I’m also not going to get into a discussion about HP gains. Again, that too has been discussed to death.

Why did I do it? It’s an extremely cheap weekend mod that “might” give me some HP gains. Can’t go wrong with cheap and I had nothing to lose! Can’t hurt a thing.

Recommendations:

• Look for other ways to build your intake tube – I paid about $90 for my Airaid but they’re going up in price and there are cheaper ways with the same result.
• Hold onto your OEM resonator in the event you can’t stand the noise (I still have mine)
• Place plastic cap under rear seat with your road kit
• Install to the left (facing the vehicle) to allow you room to install the cap for water crossings

Simplified Instructions

• Use outer ring as template
• Drill 3/8” pilot hole and cut a little larger than (I used a dremel)
• Use #8 pan head screws (Do not use countersunk or oval head screws)
• Don't drill any starter holes for the screws
• Wash and dry entire assembly of all swarf – it gets everywhere
• I used ABS friendly 3M Marine Adhesive fast cure 5200
• Ultra Black is also recommended and works great with ABS

Here's Two Links from Speedy for all the first timers out there - enjoy
Project SportRunner - Deck Plate Mod
Project SportRunner - Intake Silencer Removal

There's a bazzillion more out there and on this site.

EDIT: Oh Yea, Final Comments about the Gains
With my stock OEM 4Runner with 265/70R/16s I felt an increased pedal response, but..I just replaced my knock sensors, cleaned my intake manifold, cleaned my MAF, TB, installed new plugs, new filter, new wires, ran some sea foam, and all the good stuff after you've just had your top half all apart. - Sure I'm going to feel a change. It was a pleasant change for my 5vz.

Negligable difference once I did the following:

• New 17"wheels with 285/70R/17 Toyo AT Open Country Tires = Weight at the wheels
• Shrockworks bumper, skids, and sliders = more weight

Stock runner great mod. Weight at the wheels and the body, without headers, SC and deeper gears on above - negligible difference. IMO

Replacing the Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor - 2001 4Runner

I had a few hours to spare in between my yard maintenance and decided to knock out my O2 Sensors, fuel filter and MAF sensor. Took about two hours total. Anyway, here's a quick "how to" for the MAF sensor (Also known as: hot–wire type mass flow meter) for all of you new to maintenance.

Quick Overview of the Hot Wire MAF Sensor and why it's so important
The MAF sensor is used to measure volume, temperature and flow rate of air in the intake. As air flows through the MAF sensor, it flows over a heated platinum wire. A transistor in the MAF circuit varies the current to maintain a constant temperature across the platinum hot wire. The hot wire temperature is affected by changes in air temperature, volume and flow rate. A thermistor is wired in parallel to the hot wire which compensates for changes in air temperature. The output voltage of the sensor reflects the amount of current necessary to keep the heated wire at a constant temperature.

The circuit board converts the measurement of current into a voltage signal which is sent to the ECU. The ECU uses this calculation to calibrate the correct air/fuel mixture ratio to enter the combustion chamber.

ONLY use OEM!! There are after-market sensors out there, however, the circuit board, the thermistor and platinum hot wires don't always meet the same high standards our 4Runners need for the ECU. Any variation in standards could negatively impact your performance.

Basic Parts of the MAF

• Circuit board
• Thermistor
• Platinum hot wire
• Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor

What will drive you to change or clean your MAF?

• Air-fuel ratio control unstable
• Unsteady idle “hunting” car revs up by around 1000rpms by itself
• Loss of power
• Reduced fuel economy
• Exceeded its lifetime expectancy (about 40,000 miles)
• Cleaning is good for a while. Eventually you’ll have to replace it.

Various Codes Associated with the MAF

• P0100 - Mass Air Flow Circuit Malfunction (Ignition timing fixed at 10° BTDC)
• P0101 - Mass Air Flow Circuit Range/Performance Problem
• P0110 - Intake Air Temp. Circuit Malfunction
• P0171 - System too Lean (Fuel Trim)
• P0172 - System too Rich (Fuel Trim)
• Any of the mis-fire DTC's

How to Replace or Clean your MAF Sensor

• Part number - Denso 1976020 (197-6020)
• Cost - $72.89 from Rock Auto

Tools Needed

• 1/4" Drive ratchet
• 1/4" deep socket
• A #2 apex
• Mass Air Flow and Electrical Cleaner
• Dielectric grease (optional)

To clean your MAF, follow the same instructions for removal and installation. Using the MAF cleaner and a Q-tip, spray some MAF cleaner onto the thermistor and hot wires located inside the housing, next to the IAT (Looks like a wire with a drop of oil on it). VERY GENTLY use a Q-Tip to remove the hairs and other build-up off both elements. DO NOT break the fragile wires. Using your Q-tip and MAF cleaner, clean any build-up off the IAT.

NOTE: For those that feel they need to remove their air box, then a phillips (#2) screw driver should be sufficient.

Steps

• Disconnect battery. I do this for all electrical work. If you don't you need to reset the ECU by removing your EFI relay for about 30 seconds.
• Disconnect connector from MAF sensor. Do not pull on the wires. You may need to use a screw driver or connector tool to help work the connector off.
• Remove two #2 screws. If you feel you don't have the proper leverage, then I recommend you remove the air box so you don't strip the screws.
• Remove MAF sensor. This sensor just pulls out and presses in. There's an "O" ring on the sensor.
• Install new MAF sensor. It just presses in by hand.
• Secure with two #2 phillips screws. Just don't drop them and you'll be OK.
• Clean connector with electrical cleaner.
• Re-connect the connector to the MAF sensor. Just press on until you feel or hear the click. (You can use dielectric grease on the connector if you want)
• Re-connect your battery or re-install your EFI.
• Start your rig and check for a CEL and any related MAF codes.

This is about a fifteen to twenty minute job and you will probably never "need" to replace the sensor if you perform regular cleaning the correct way. Mine is the original sensor with some serious miles on it, so I couldn't really go wrong with replacing it. You should include this into your maintenance program every 40,000 miles. At least clean once or twice before you replace it.

Hopefully this is helpful information for you.

Here are some useful links;

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mass_flow_sensor#Hot_wire_sensor_.28MAF.29
JA's Website: Toyota 4Runner Highlander Mass Air Flow Sensor MAF cleaning
3rd Gen FAQ's and Tutorials: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/67869-cleaning-maf.html

Replacing the Fuel Filter - 2001 4Runner

Here's the Fuel Filter write-up, predominately for the new guys.

First of all it's right under the drivers side just aft of the mirror. I no longer have my plastic dust shield since I installed my rock sliders. Most will have a dust shield installed. In my photo's you'll see my belly skid plate is also removed.

Important stuff

• Part number - 23300-62030 (OEM)
• Cost -$30 from TRD Sparks

Tools Needed

• 14mm Flare Nut wrench
• 19mm Flare nut or open-end wrench
• 10mm deep socket
• long 3/8" drive extension
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• Anti-sieze lube
• PB Blaster (all you rust prone guys/gals)
• Drain pan and rags
• Gloves

Important!
Exercise extreme caution. You're working around fuel and open fuel lines. No open flames, no extension cords or anything that could cause a spark and rid you of your 4runner. Please use common sense. fuel is carcinogenic so wear latex gloves.

Depressurize your Fuel System

"The fuel system is under constant pressure, so, if any fuel lines are to be disconnected, the fuel pressure in the system must be relieved first." Haynes 4-2, Section 2. The following are the two recommended methods:

• Open your gas cap and leave it overnight or for a few hours. "Crack" your flare nut fitting open just enough to relieve pressure. This worked fine for me!
• The two other procedures are a) disconnect the fuel pump harness connector or,
• b) Remove the Circuit Opening Relay and start your engine and wait for your engine to stall. Not a huge fan of this.

FYI - I broke the flare nut on the pressure (inlet) side of the filter first and lost, at the most, 1/2 pint of fuel...if that. It went into my John Deere.

Remove Filter

• Disconnect battery (-) and/or EFI relay
• Place drain pan under the filter
• Loosen the flare nuts BEFORE you loosen the mounting bracket nuts
• You may need to use the 19mm wrench to hold the fuel filter while loosening the flare nut. I was able to grasp the filter with one hand and loosen the nut with the other.
• Remove both nuts from the mounting bracket.
• Remove the fuel lines from the filter being careful to catch any residual fuel.

Install filter

• Ensure the filter is facing the correct direction and hand thread the nuts to the filter. Filter has the word "OUT" embossed on the smaller diameter side facing the engine.
• Do not torque the nuts down yet. Ensure you don't cross-thread them.
• Install the filter assembly and mounting bracket to the 10mm studs and completely tighten down. Use anti-seize if you need it.
• Once the filter and mounting bracket is secure, go back and torque flare nuts to 18" lbs. Personally I went by feel. One click of the elbow.

Close Out Procedures

• Reconnect battery terminal
• Re-install EFI relay
• Start vehicle. It may feel a little sluggish to crank at first.
• With vehicle running, go underneath and check for leaks.

Personal Notes: Living in the NW I have never had to worry about anti-sieze compound, or the need for PB. I tried to include that in this write up for those in rust belt areas. Also, as for the reason for changing the filter, none other than after being on there from the factory, it was long overdue. No CEL codes, poor gas mileage, or anything else drove me to replace it.

Recommended interval is 60,000 miles or 48months, whichever comes first.

Install 1000 Lumen LED Dome Light

I finally took some time to install my Lumitec Nevis Engine Room Light in the rear cargo area in place of the original dome light.

My own personal requirements

• First I wanted a clean professional look.
• I wanted to use the functionality of the Door/Off/On function of the original switch
• I wanted to tie in my overhead cargo lights to the same switch.

Mission accomplished. I'm extremely pleased at the way it all turned out. This is almost as good of a mod as my Tundra Brake Upgrade,

The biggest challenge was how to install the Lumitec in the overhead. This was not a simple plug-n-play mod.

I thought about installing the light to the side of the switch or to the rear. Neither appealed to me. For my liking it had to be centered.

When I'm ready I have power and switched power inside the passenger cargo area, along with my wiring for my A-Series Rigid Industries lights for the cargo door.

I can run everything off my 15 amp dome fuse.

End Result with the Light in Either On or Door mode

With the switch in "Door" mode, both the side "dome" light and the newly installed LED lights are powered on and off as the cargo door is raised and lowered. Sweet!

In the "On" mode both lights go on and stay on until turned off.

You'll notice I brought switched power (blue wire) across the interior roof panel to the other side. This comes off my positive side of the light bulb. I also have my power and ground from the original dome light connector. I could have used power/gnd closer to the passenger side, such as the 12V power outlet, but there really wasn't a need to tap into it there.

You'll notice the wiring (red and black)for my A-Series Rigid industries lights just waiting for me to install them.

Here's a great night shot with the light in the white and red modes.

The red is great for camping. The small dome light is pretty much non intrusive.