[nglayton]

[Cr4zy4runner]

Personally I just got tool foam and traced out my tools and cut it to them. Same with sockets, wrenches, etc. it's. low profile and no rattling. I've seen others use crown royal bags to keep their sockets


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[nglayton]

Again, another great group buy came and went and I was the lucky owner of an ARB single compressor (CKMA12). I had to find a place to mount my new compressor. In my 2011 there’s a great spot up against the firewall on the passenger side.





Being a cheap b@st@rd, I didn’t want to pay $100+ for a Bandi mount. Besides that some of the mount points he uses have long been used up for my dual battery system components. I also didn’t want to pay to have a pro install it so I just made my own mounts. Using just scraps I had laying around the shop, I did some measurements and came up with a quick little set of brackets, that I welded together. This bracket cost me $0!!! Just about an hour fab time. Perfect!

I made two ibeam shaped legs, one of the 4” high and the other 5” high and bolted then to existing studs in this area. I had a mess of metric nuts and found 2 that fit and tightened them down. This created 2 legs for the base of my platform that were just about level.





Then for the 3rd support I decide to come straight off the firewall where this cable bracket is installed.




I made a brace that comes forward about 10 inches or so to be level with the forward most ibeam bracket from the picture above., Then I welded the end of that down to the base of the forward ibeam bracket for added stability.





Then I took a flat sheet of steel and attached the compressor bracket to it. Made a couple of marks where I wanted to bend it all and got the torch out and started heating it u for the bend.





Once I had it bent, I mounted the compressor for a test fit.








Then I painted the bracket and screwed it to my fabbed up mounts. Over all it pretty flat and solid once I had it all screwed into place.



The wiring is a whole different story. I decided that I didn’t need to be able to turn it on from the cab. No lockers for me, probably never will, I just don’t use my rig that way. So, I just bought a 40a toggle switch and wired it up directly to my aux battery system.

The wiring harness that came with the compressor looked like it was hand made by a small captive child. That thing, while I am sure it was totally functional for it's intended purpose, was a total mess. I unwrapped every wire and stole the inline fuse and connectors out of it to wire it to my aux battery connection block. I also didn’t use the pressure shut off switch or the relay. Instead I opted for a pressure release valve on a T connection. When you flip the compressor on it builds up 100lbs then pops the release valve. Since I will only be using this for tires and air mattresses it will work fine this way. If I ever decide to add a air tank, I’ll go back to the wiring harness with the relay and pressure switch.


Then I added an official ARB dust cover (accessory bag, cut to fit) and I’m all set!



I probably could have made this lower or higher to the body. I could have easily made the legs 1" and 2" high and ran the firewall bracket down low and over for more room on top.

Or made the legs 6" and 7" high and ran the firewall bracket up high and over for room underneath the platform.

This would give me room for a tank or to store the air hose and fittings. For now we will see how this holds up.

Note: After a year I made an update --> ARB Compressor Install Update

[2chains]

Great pics and info...I have a similar mounting location for my compressor... are they recommending to keep covered when not in use?

[nglayton]

Originally Posted by 2chains

are they recommending to keep covered when not in use?

I'm not sure if they recommend it or not, I doubt it. But in looking at how dusty everything has gotten under my hood, I just thought I might as well do something to try and protect it.

I bought this bag from amazon ARB ARB504 Recovery Gear and General Accessories

I cut the zipper panel out of it, which is just enough space to flip it upside down and pop it over the whole setup.

[nglayton]

While the install is not hard to do, it is kind of a pain. I also bought this upgraded alternator on an excellent group buy a long while back, like almost a year ago. These group buys are going to keep my wallet thin..... I just finally got around to installing it when a I had a few extra vacations days to use up. Plus the OEM alternator has almost 90k miles on it so I figured I should be pro-active. I plan on installing my BB HW mount as well as my Warn winch in the very near future so now was the time to upgrade.


This isn't really a how-to, well okay maybe it is. Anyway, here is my experience and some quick pics.

First, I thought this was sold as a direct replacement....just drop it in they said.... HA! HA!

1) It's 1/2" longer (deeper) than the the original Toyota OEM alternator. There is space, but it makes it a lot tougher to wiggle into the hole it has to go into.

2) The stud for the Positive cable is 2 sizes bigger than the original cable, so you have to drill it out to fit. Luckily I read this some place else and drilled it out before I had everything back in place. I had a lot more room to do it while everything was out, than I would have had I discovered this after I got the new one in.

3) Original Toyota alternator has 2 bolts in front, 2 on the side and one in the back. --> The XP-270 only has the 2 front bolts. Now granted the 2 on the side are only holding cables and harnesses in place and the one on the back is overkill, but still from 5 down to 2 seems, well odd. The harness will need some zip ties or something.

Here's what I did to get this thing installed.

1) Disconnect the battery cables and REMOVE THE BATTERY and the battery tray - this just flat out gives you more room to work with.
EDIT: I just remembered...also under the battery tray is a 2-3" long bracket that holds the wiring harness out with 10mm bolt to the fender well. I took this out to help the harness lay flat against the fender well, that also gave me more wiggle room.

2) Release tension on tensioner pulley to let serpentine belt slip off alternator pulley. Use a 14mm wrench or socket and just pull it all the way up. It should let the belt slide right off.

3) Jack up the T4R and take the driver side front wheel off. Then remove the rubber skirt/shield, to access alternator from inside the wheel well, to the rear of the shock and spring.

4) Remove the two bolts on the front of the alternator 14mm(easily accessed from the engine bay) but leave one loosely in place to keep the alt from falling once the rear bolt is off.

5) Remove the 2 bolts on the side of the alternator holding the harnesses and wires. 10mm. One is easy get from the engine bay, the other is easier from the wheel well in front of the spring and shock.

6) Cut various other Toyota black tape (on wires) to the back of the alternator. Cut the tape to release the wire from the harness, DO NOT cut the wires! This a small bracket on the back of the OEM alternator, that does nothing but hold those wires in place. This is why we love Toyota, total overkill by the Toyota engineers, it must have wiggled once or something in a test.

7) Remove the rear bolt on the alternator bracket, accessed through the wheel well. This one that everyone struggles with. You can barely see this mother through the wheel well. It's an "L" bracket attached to the side of the engine and the bottom back mount of the alternator. It's attached directly behind the lower bolt you took out from the front. Damn near impossible to see unless you know where to look. If you have about a 2-3 foot extension on a 12mm wobbly socket this is a piece of cake and easy. Loosen the bolt and bracket from the engine and take the bracket out with the alternator because you don't need it for the new one.

8) Once you have it all loose you can pop the top cap on the positive terminal of the alternator and remove the cable from alternator. You have to take the main stud off before the control wire socket will come up and off.

9) Pull the old alternator out, sideways a bit, then forward and up. It takes a lot of wiggling. Be careful of the radiator hose and the air conditioning line. Personally I took the radiator hose off and shoved it off to the left side to make it easier. I lost about 1/2 - 2/3's of a gallon of anti-freeze in the process, but it was so much easier, it was worth it.

Then install the new alternator and reverse the steps to get it all hooked up.

Remember to drill out the OEM cable or you will never get it on the new alternator.
Now is also a good time to do the "BIG 3" upgrade if you are so inclined.




Some side by side comparison shots for the old and the new alternators.






Here's a couple of it installed!





A couple of shots of my "Big 3 Cable Upgrade" I'm still not real sure if it's snake oil or not, but since I had all the parts on hand and didn't have to spend any extra $$ or pay anyone to do it, I figured why not?

[nglayton]

So I've been running this DC Power XP-270 alternator for about 2 weeks now. Time for a couple of minor observations.

1) the engine idles at a lower speed now and because of this, it's quieter when just sitting and running. I'm sure this is just a small difference and can be adjusted, but I also notice the lower idle speed when I'm at stop signs and start to go. It almost stumbles when I step on the gas, almost.

2) Before the upgrade, my voltage meter would run at 13.8v or so for a minute or so, then start dropping down to 13.2, 12.8, and after 15 minutes or so would hover around 12.4 or 12.3. After the upgrade, the system will run at 13.8 or 13.9, then it starts dropping down, 13.6, 13.4, however it has never in the 2 weeks I've been watching it gone below 13.3. I'll keep watching it and report any other changes.

3) Effect on gas mileage? - not enough data yet. But with the increased drag slowing the idle, I'm curious.

5/18/19: I think has had zero effect on gas mileage

[boyguan]

Great build!

[nglayton]

I think the hardest part was getting the bumper cover off the first time. There was no good info on the entire forum for showing this. Then I searched youtube and bingo!!

Okay, so first thing is to watch this video on getting the front bumper cover off. You can thank them and me later.


EDIT: It looks like they pulled the video! Sadly I don't remember who made it. I do remember it was one of the bigger companies that is on the forum, Rago or maybe Shrockworks, CBI maybe? Anyway, I can't find it again and I have no idea why it was pulled. Too bad they no longer want to support us. I will try to find it again or hopefully they will put it back up in the same place and it will just work again.

Basically these are the steps:
1) Take out the 3 screws in the fender well in front of the wheels both sides total of 6 screws.
2) Underneath there are 4 screws, one on each corner, two more across the center.
3) On top, takeoff the air damn cover with the little pop fasteners, there are 13 of these and remove the cover.
4) Under that cover there are a few more pop fasteners holding the grill to the radiator support.
5) Then start on either side gently pry the cover away from the fender,
the clips should pop off and the cover basically falls off.

You might want 2 people and some carpet on the ground incase it just falls off. It can be done with one person if your not too worried about it falling or scratching.

Edit Add: 3/1/18 - I found this video by Rago fab showing how to install their hidden brackets, but it totally shows the steps to get the bumper cover off.



Then this bolt needs taken out. It's the inside bolt holding the bumper support bracket. There are 3 on the outsides, but I didn't even loosen them.


Same single bolt on the other side.


Then I took off this foam filler thingy. Not really sure what exactly it's purpose is but whatever. It's just pulls off, so I figured I best take it off before I accidentally break the thing.



Then this cross brace needs to come out. It's what the upper part of the grill is attached to.


Also I pulled off these plastic air damn things. One on each side. All they do is trap the air coming in the from the grill and force it to go through the radiator. One on each side of the radiator.



Then I detached this air temp sensor and rolled it up out of the way.

[nglayton]

After trying to test fit in in the space, I couldn't get it in and I decided I needed to remove the hood latch bracket and mechanism. It has 1 bolt on the bottom, I think 3 on top, but one is covered by a plastic cover.



That still didn't allow enough room to slip it in place, So I had to actually loosen the aluminum bumper from the bracket. Just loosen the 3 bolts in the bumper and pull it forward about 1/2" - 3/4" on both sides. Then it will drop in.


Then once it's in you can put the first to bolts in and and tighten it to the frame. Then start putting the hood latch bracket back on, the air damns and cross braces. Don't forget to tighten the bumper back down.


Long extension and a wobbly socket makes the first 2 bolts we removed from the frame really simple to get back into and tight.
Actually, of you don't own a 2-3' extension and a set of wobbly sockets, go now to sears or amazon and buy them. You won't be sorry. I also used these changing the alternator and it made the job a snap.



I am missing a picture here, but the supplied u-bolts go in to hold the HWM to the aluminum bumper. I will try to snap a picture when I pull it apart again.


Once I had it all (everything, cover and all) back together again I attached the fairlead rollers and license plate holder.

[nglayton]

I had to change something already, before I even installed the winch.

The fairlead rollers stuck out way too far for me. It sort of took away the hidden part of the hidden winch mount. Not good. So I swapped it out for a Hawse fairlead and a flip up license plate holder. I still need to adjust it a bit so it can flip up more, the way it is now the plate would get destroyed if I actually used the winch, but I will do this when I install the winch... (coming soon)



I'm not really liking this sort of 45 degree open angle. It's hitting the bumper so I will have to change the way it's mounted.




I've also noticed, with just the HWM and no winch that the tires are now rubbing a bit more. So before I get the winch installed, I'm going to have to do the suspension. I guess when you add a second battery, upgrade the original battery to a Group31m and add a compressor up front, as well as larger tires, the OEM suspension just isn't going to cut it any more.

Jump to the winch install here.

[nglayton]

So far the dealership (service manager is a high school buddy) is quoting $890 retail, but says he will do it for me for $685!
Not sure of the details yet...but he says 3.5" lift......i'm guessing it's not really going to be that much actual lift, but will get more details this weekend hopefully.

NOTE# Had to postpone the lift install until the 8/23/17. Dealerships install guy is on vacation until then.

Here's the blurb from Revtek on the lift:

This Revtek #432 kit is designed to lift your 2010 - 2016 Toyota 4Runner and provides a full 3" inches of lift up front and 2.125" inches in the back. By raising the front slightly more than the rear, Revtek is able to level the 4Runner to help improve it's already good looks. This is not a body lift, it's a suspension lift kit! Heavy duty Revtek spacers provide lift while retaining the factory springs. This provides lift without causing a harsh ride. This item requires an easy bolt-on installation. No cutting or welding is required.

The Revtek Toyota 4Runner #432 Suspension Lift is designed for use on 2010 - 2016 model year vehicles. Please note that this lift will NOT properly fit models equipped with X-REAS. This kit is however compatible with 4Runner models equipped with KDSS. Please note that when installing this kit on a 4Runner with KDSS it will be necessary to strap or support the sway bar piston (easy to do). This kit clears up to a 285/75R16 or 285/70R17 size tire. This works out to a 33" x 11.5" tire. Please note, larger diameter or wider tires may require additional modifications to prevent rubbing. This suspension lift is a complete front and rear system, no extra components are required. To ensure proper operation, Revtek even includes a pair of rear shock absorbers designed specifically for use with their suspension lift kit!

[nglayton]

Just got it home, time to get some pics. Here is a teaser......



More pics and info coming soon.

[nglayton]

Here is a copy of the cost and the alignment, before and after.

[nglayton]

Here are some measurements I took, before and immediately afterwards.

'


The lift in front was 3" - 3.25"
The lift in back was 1.65" - 2"

I'm not sure why the passenger rear seams to be the lowest measurement out..seems odd to me.

I will check the measurements again in 30 days or so and see how it's settles out.
I need to hit a trail or two, a few seed bumps and put some weight in it to see how it feels.

All the measurements were taken on the same level concrete slab.
I measured from the concrete to the bottom of the fender, centered on the tire.

Edit: Be sure and check out updated measurements after 2K miles here.