Quote:
Originally Posted by tre9er
Yeah I had been using 8mm wrench on the front bleeders then went to the rear and had to use a 10mm deep socket to crack it loose, then the 10mm wrench to open it enough to bleed. How's your pedal feel? I'd like mine a bit firmer, but I think my rear brakes are shot.
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After bleeding the brakes with a type of manifold that ran 10 psi of air off my compressor line through my brake system, starting with passenger rear, then driver rear, passenger front, driver front, and pretty much flushing the entire system with 64 oz of Lucas full synthetic DOT 3 ($13.00 at AutoZone), my brakes feel GREAT!
Set up quart size mason jars with 2' of 3/16" clear tubing on each wheel, open the air line to 15 psi, then go from one wheel to another bleeding the lines, constantly replacing the fluid. Worked great!
Then of course there is the break in process for the new pads and rotors to prevent stress fractures and damage to the pads. This process is getting up to 45 mph then hitting the brakes hard (not locking them up or activating the ABS), slowing to 5-ish mph, let off brakes, keep rolling and speed back up to 45 mph 5 times. Then do the same thing from 35 mph to 5 mph 5 times. Then do the same thing from 25 mph to 5 mph 5 times. Never allowing the rotors to cool. These are steps directly from the manufacturer even though the instructions in the kit says to let the rotors cool during the 35 and 25 mph stops. Doing this will cause material from the pads (resin) to transfer to the hot rotors and create a layer that will help with friction with the pads, and a smoothness that will prevent vibrations during braking. This process is EXTREMELY important because failure to do it correctly could cause pad material to stick to the rotor causing a "lump", or cause heat build up in small areas that could result in stress fractures!
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1999 - Natural White, Limited, 3.4L, Factory E-Locker, 4x4, 231mm TBU, otherwise entirely stock
