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Old 10-09-2015, 11:56 AM
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TheDurk TheDurk is offline
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TheDurk TheDurk is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Pocono Mountains
Posts: 7,547
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeremyc74 View Post
Here's a link for all the electrical diagrams:
http://web.archive.org/web/201005310...sm/wiring.html

Ok, so power for the windows actually comes straight from the battery from the 30Amp "POWER" fuse at the top left. That's hot all the time, but the ignition switch signal passes through the body ECU and controls the "PWR RELAY" and switches the power to the controls on and off. If you can get to the PWR RELAY easily (I haven't looked but it's probably under the hood with the rest of them) all you need to do is pull it out and put a jumper between pins 3 and 5.

There are other things tied into that, but it's easy enough to do when you need it for hunting. This is very similar to what you do to make all the power outlets hot all the time. All you need is a short piece of wire (you need 10 gauge since it's a 30amp fuse), and two male spade terminals.


Here's what it looks like when you do the power outlets:
The PWR relay, unfortunately, is not so convenient. It's on the reverse side of the fuse panel by the driver's knee on the top right corner, so accessing it to swap in a jumper is sort of a pain. You have to pull the panel. The best way would be to wire an always-on 12V+ source through a switch and connect that to Terminal 1 of the relay. That would allow you to energize the system as needed. Either tap a fused circuit like the DOME circuit or use an inline fuse. Relay coils don't use much so 1 amp is plenty.

The key chime, if memory serves, is soldered into the gauge cluster. Best way to deal with it is a fatal injection of superglue.
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'99 4Runner SR5 5spd 3.4L V6 4WD(U.S), original '99 Talls in front, OME 906s in back, Hella fogs, Trekmaster shocks in front, Billy in back, no running boards, FIAMM horns, Alpine sound, Michelin LTX M/S2's, owned since new.
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Last edited by TheDurk; 10-09-2015 at 11:59 AM.
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