Calvin & Hobbes - Life after the Red Wagon leads to a T4R?
- Thread starter LOLSNOW
- Start date
I used 12AWG from Pegasus auto racing. I ran 3 wires on the passenger side and 2 on the driver. I'd defiantly give the wire a try. You'll be surprised how easy it'll be to run.
rayofsi
New member
thanks, i have a bunch of similar wire from a different mfg after reading around.
Thinking or just running 16awg that should be enough, but have 12awg on hand in case i need that.
Rear Power setup for GF's hairdryer
Tools possibly needed:
-Laywer
-Cellphone to cancel wedding
-Blackbook
Links:
KR1500 Power Inverters | Krieger Electric
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GZOCIPU
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007P5UNNW
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074FH81GQ
https://ceautoelectricsupply.com/
The main 'stuff'
So it's been requested (more like ultimatum) that the 4Runner have the capability to run a hairdryer and cook rice if I wish to continue going on trips with the missus - and yes these requests are real. I wouldn't have really ever considered doing this, HOWEVER, the sad reality is that I will likely leave her and the cat, house, etc. and so I'll need some way to survive out on my own with the 4Runner so having 120V AC didn't really sound like a bad idea after all.
The problem is I didn't want to run any 120v system via some radio shack inverter. I wanted to rival portable generators. To do this I picked up a Krieger 1500w continuous 3000w peak inverter which will easily handle the tasks of my new freedom as a single male in the not so distant future.
Gonna have to wire on the passenger side... maybe it's time for that dual battery?
If you followed my build you probably noticed I'm already running 4AWG wires from the driver firewall to the back which powers the fridge, water heater, etc. And the plan was to replace that cable with 0 AWG but sadly there's no way it would fit. To fit it I would need to route the cables from the passenger side.
To get an idea if this would be possible I had to remove the glove box which was pretty easy after finding Dingo79's guide here: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/187169-how-14-dash-11-how-drop-glove-box.html
Eventually I settled to use an existing hole and drilling a new one to the left. I also had originally attempted to use the firewall passthough grommet but sadly toyota put some sort of plug in it which would've been too much effort to remove.
So far everything is fitting well and surprisingly two 0 AWG wires can be routed in the area under the plastic foot panel. I'll have to wrap this up as I'm still waiting on a few more Blue Sea parts as well as I'm really thinking of throwing in another battery as well.
...to be continued.
Tools possibly needed:
-Laywer
-Cellphone to cancel wedding
-Blackbook
Links:
KR1500 Power Inverters | Krieger Electric
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GZOCIPU
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007P5UNNW
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074FH81GQ
https://ceautoelectricsupply.com/
The main 'stuff'
So it's been requested (more like ultimatum) that the 4Runner have the capability to run a hairdryer and cook rice if I wish to continue going on trips with the missus - and yes these requests are real. I wouldn't have really ever considered doing this, HOWEVER, the sad reality is that I will likely leave her and the cat, house, etc. and so I'll need some way to survive out on my own with the 4Runner so having 120V AC didn't really sound like a bad idea after all.
The problem is I didn't want to run any 120v system via some radio shack inverter. I wanted to rival portable generators. To do this I picked up a Krieger 1500w continuous 3000w peak inverter which will easily handle the tasks of my new freedom as a single male in the not so distant future.
Gonna have to wire on the passenger side... maybe it's time for that dual battery?
If you followed my build you probably noticed I'm already running 4AWG wires from the driver firewall to the back which powers the fridge, water heater, etc. And the plan was to replace that cable with 0 AWG but sadly there's no way it would fit. To fit it I would need to route the cables from the passenger side.
To get an idea if this would be possible I had to remove the glove box which was pretty easy after finding Dingo79's guide here: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/187169-how-14-dash-11-how-drop-glove-box.html
Eventually I settled to use an existing hole and drilling a new one to the left. I also had originally attempted to use the firewall passthough grommet but sadly toyota put some sort of plug in it which would've been too much effort to remove.
So far everything is fitting well and surprisingly two 0 AWG wires can be routed in the area under the plastic foot panel. I'll have to wrap this up as I'm still waiting on a few more Blue Sea parts as well as I'm really thinking of throwing in another battery as well.
...to be continued.
Xmas was excellent and was able to wrap up the rear. I mocked what I thought would look good - inverter, blue sea 12v panel, and blue sea 120v AC plug.
I thought mounting the inverter would be a challenge as it is large and bulky. My plan was to make a mounting plate and somehow secure it to the ARB compressor bracket but that proved to be too much work. I eventually settled on reversing the compressor and mounting it to the sheetmetal. I used serrated locknuts and serrated head screws to help counteract vibrations that may cause the screws to loosen.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/123/3227/=1av8aqy
https://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/123/3174/=1av8b0b
To make the panel I used a clear lexan sheet. This made making the panel real easy as I could trace the shape and accurately drill holes in the sheet to match the locations of the 4Runner's trim mounting screw holes. To finish the panel I used some metallic black vinyl I got from amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071ZBH9Z3
And done! Here's how it looks. From left to right I have a Battery monitor, Inverter switch, Water tank guage, 120v ac plug, and finally the blue sea 12v panel. Although it is functional now I do plan to finally go the dual battery route and have this setup and all auxilary systems (lighting etc) to run off it but that's another post for another time.
Sadly I dont recall the sizes. I had a bunch of spare bolts laying around and just used what fit. If I had to guess they were M8 and M10.
Dual GROUP 31 batteries
Tools possibly needed:
-Gym membership & personal trainer as group 31's are made of dwarf star
Links:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001VIXLRO
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000TCRERQ
Toyota Battery Cage for Tacoma, 4Runner, FJ & Lexus 470 Trucks
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N22BS1P
https://ceautoelectricsupply.com/
I've always hesitated going dual battery. The complexity of routing wires. Where to mount the second battery, etc etc etc. In the end the biggest deterrent was the sheer size of fitting a second group 31.
Now I know I could've gone with two different sized batteries with different capacities but to me that would nullify some of the benefits of dual batteries as well as introduce some issues like the physics of charging/discharging two paralleled batteries.
Odyssey 31M-PC2150 in Pelfrey Cage
To start I figured it would be easy to use a Pelfrey battery cage and build a supporting bracket on the passenger side of the firewall. I'm keeping pics of the bracket private for now but it's made from milled block of billet that mounts the existing holes found on the fender.
$HIT
Just a PSA - if attempting this mod on your own be sure to remove the emissions air valve. I accidentally bumped mine and broke the vacuum nipple.
Blue Seas Battery Isolator
I ended up trying two different battery isolators and ended up with the ML-ACR. I preferred this version since it's simpler to wire and has a remote switch that I can use to control the relay. I also drilled a hole in the radiator trim so I could access the manual override switch.
Now I know the mounting area is really not that ideal but my engine bay's real estate is pretty much GONE. In the near future I'll see if I can fab up a bracket and relocate the isolator somewhere near the firewall as there are some mounting areas there I can work with.
Blue Seas Battery Switch and USB socket
To fit the battery switch I relocated the USB and Aux plug into the glove compartment. I also removed the cigarette port and put in a blue seas USB port as I never really liked the extra bulk from those 12v-to-usb plugs.
House and Main battery
Looks a little busy but there's a lot here. First I mounted a breaker and the battery monitor's shunt on top fo the battery cage using elevator bolts to secure these devices. Then I used some battery terminals and cables from CEautoelectricsupply to connect everything together.
I ended up getting the Victron BMV-702 since it allows me to check the voltage on both the main and aux batteries as well as monitor a full array of stats on the main battery (charge, discharge, capacity, etc). I also have another monitor in the rear of the 4runner that monitors the aux/house battery
It's done. I started this project sometime in mid December and can finally say it's complete. I'm sure I'll still change a few things here and there but I'm relieved that all major systems (lights, fridge, shower, inverter, etc) now run off the house battery. Next project is to run solar but I consider that relatively simple vs what was done here. Until next time :dancin:
Tools possibly needed:
-Gym membership & personal trainer as group 31's are made of dwarf star
Links:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001VIXLRO
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000TCRERQ
Toyota Battery Cage for Tacoma, 4Runner, FJ & Lexus 470 Trucks
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N22BS1P
https://ceautoelectricsupply.com/
I've always hesitated going dual battery. The complexity of routing wires. Where to mount the second battery, etc etc etc. In the end the biggest deterrent was the sheer size of fitting a second group 31.
Now I know I could've gone with two different sized batteries with different capacities but to me that would nullify some of the benefits of dual batteries as well as introduce some issues like the physics of charging/discharging two paralleled batteries.
Odyssey 31M-PC2150 in Pelfrey Cage
To start I figured it would be easy to use a Pelfrey battery cage and build a supporting bracket on the passenger side of the firewall. I'm keeping pics of the bracket private for now but it's made from milled block of billet that mounts the existing holes found on the fender.
$HIT
Just a PSA - if attempting this mod on your own be sure to remove the emissions air valve. I accidentally bumped mine and broke the vacuum nipple.
Blue Seas Battery Isolator
I ended up trying two different battery isolators and ended up with the ML-ACR. I preferred this version since it's simpler to wire and has a remote switch that I can use to control the relay. I also drilled a hole in the radiator trim so I could access the manual override switch.
Now I know the mounting area is really not that ideal but my engine bay's real estate is pretty much GONE. In the near future I'll see if I can fab up a bracket and relocate the isolator somewhere near the firewall as there are some mounting areas there I can work with.
Blue Seas Battery Switch and USB socket
To fit the battery switch I relocated the USB and Aux plug into the glove compartment. I also removed the cigarette port and put in a blue seas USB port as I never really liked the extra bulk from those 12v-to-usb plugs.
House and Main battery
Looks a little busy but there's a lot here. First I mounted a breaker and the battery monitor's shunt on top fo the battery cage using elevator bolts to secure these devices. Then I used some battery terminals and cables from CEautoelectricsupply to connect everything together.
I ended up getting the Victron BMV-702 since it allows me to check the voltage on both the main and aux batteries as well as monitor a full array of stats on the main battery (charge, discharge, capacity, etc). I also have another monitor in the rear of the 4runner that monitors the aux/house battery
It's done. I started this project sometime in mid December and can finally say it's complete. I'm sure I'll still change a few things here and there but I'm relieved that all major systems (lights, fridge, shower, inverter, etc) now run off the house battery. Next project is to run solar but I consider that relatively simple vs what was done here. Until next time :dancin:
Last edited:
On the subject of interior LEDs
Tools possibly needed:
-Solar sunglasses
-SPF 1000 sunscreen
Links:
www.arclightleds.com
Since the 4Runner is essentially done I've been shifting focus on some small mods. I decided to take a stab at making some unique LED conversion since I wanted something geared toward helping me on my road/camping trips. After a few months of design and R&D I ended up with these dual WHITE/RED LED for the map, dome, and hatch lights.
Map Lights
The map lights are simply amazing. They're super bright since they use all the available space in the housing and are 100% plug and play and retain all of the OEM functions. If you get the optional white/red switch you can even switch the color for the driver and passenger individually. These are a great feature while driving at night when you want to preserve your night vision.
Dome Light
The dome lights are another sweet addition. At night these literally flood the interior with usable light. They are also switchable as well but the switch does protrude quite a bit from the lens since there's not much space in the dome light. I may go with the white only option soon as I don't really use the switch on the dome.
Hatch Lights
Now the rears are probably my absolute favorite. Just like the map lights the hatch fills the entire housing with LEDs that provide so much usable light. These are also switchable which is a much needed feature if you're ever out camping in a area with a lot of bugs that are attracted to white light. Flipping them to RED essentially makes you invisible - this is huge when cooking at night.
Tools possibly needed:
-Solar sunglasses
-SPF 1000 sunscreen
Links:
www.arclightleds.com
Since the 4Runner is essentially done I've been shifting focus on some small mods. I decided to take a stab at making some unique LED conversion since I wanted something geared toward helping me on my road/camping trips. After a few months of design and R&D I ended up with these dual WHITE/RED LED for the map, dome, and hatch lights.
Map Lights
The map lights are simply amazing. They're super bright since they use all the available space in the housing and are 100% plug and play and retain all of the OEM functions. If you get the optional white/red switch you can even switch the color for the driver and passenger individually. These are a great feature while driving at night when you want to preserve your night vision.
Dome Light
The dome lights are another sweet addition. At night these literally flood the interior with usable light. They are also switchable as well but the switch does protrude quite a bit from the lens since there's not much space in the dome light. I may go with the white only option soon as I don't really use the switch on the dome.
Hatch Lights
Now the rears are probably my absolute favorite. Just like the map lights the hatch fills the entire housing with LEDs that provide so much usable light. These are also switchable which is a much needed feature if you're ever out camping in a area with a lot of bugs that are attracted to white light. Flipping them to RED essentially makes you invisible - this is huge when cooking at night.
Shower Update Part 2
Some may have seen my other thread but this is just a copy/cleanup with some updates I recently made.
The tank. Approx 25 gallons.
The tank is built from aluminum with various fittings place throughout - clean out, mounting area, inlets, outlets, and fittings for a electric heater. Missing are the gussets which were welded on later after dry fitting the tank.
After welding the gussets I mocked up a plate that would hold the pump and relay for the electric heaters. The relay was needed as the heaters are rated at 12v 500Watts each and I used two of them so I could bring water from 75F to 115F within 20 minutes.
Relay and pump mounted
Dual heaters wired with MIL-W-22759/16 wire
Pump, relay, power wires, delphi weatherproof plug
Temperature Probe
I picked up a digital thermostat from amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019I3YCFS The thermostat will be wired to control the temperature of the water by triggering the relay that controls the two heating elements. The probe is attached to a stainless steel washer so that it can measure the temp at the bottom of the tank.
Water pickup w/ slight bend to pick up water at the bottom of the tank
All wired and hoses mounted
Tank mounted to frame using stock threaded holes
Part 3 - 1 year update
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HTWP59S
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B7OYCBK
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Y831RM0
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0737LDS4L
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-1841-electrical/dp/B0753J7S1W
https://www.mcmaster.com/#9349k33/=1dswdo4
After living with this thing for a year I noticed there was a few things needing some improvement which were:
1) No water level gauge which caused Flint Michigan water crisis like anxiety
2) The $15 thermostat failed every 2-3 months causing readouts over 250F which makes my 4runner a certified steam engine.
To fix the water level issue I ordered CPWR Guage along with a KUS water level sensor (links above). The thermostat I went with the Blue Seas 1841 unit as well as a tiny temp sensor module so I could monitor water temperature from the rear of the 4runner.
Water level sensor installed and two holes drilled for the Blue Seas temp sensors. The black foam is insulation.
Left shitty sensor vs Blue Seas sensor
Hacked up the trim where the 12v power and USB input goes. Looks ugly but the Blue Seas thermostat is huge!
Drew up and 3D printed a new facia to house the thermostat, dual battery switch, and a new USB high power plug
New center stack layout
Blue Seas smaller temp display. Had to essentially tear apart to rear just to install this
New rear power/info display
Still clean inside after a year with minimal mineral buildup
With these items addressed the tank setup is pretty much perfect barring any issues with the Blue Seas systems. The thermostat is much nicer than my previous one and the display is great. It's capable of having 3 additional temperature readouts but I'm unsure what else I would want to monitor. The rear temp readout will likely be my favorite upgrade for this setup since it'll allow me to monitor temps whenever I hang out in the rear of the 4runner.
Some may have seen my other thread but this is just a copy/cleanup with some updates I recently made.
The tank. Approx 25 gallons.
The tank is built from aluminum with various fittings place throughout - clean out, mounting area, inlets, outlets, and fittings for a electric heater. Missing are the gussets which were welded on later after dry fitting the tank.
After welding the gussets I mocked up a plate that would hold the pump and relay for the electric heaters. The relay was needed as the heaters are rated at 12v 500Watts each and I used two of them so I could bring water from 75F to 115F within 20 minutes.
Relay and pump mounted
Dual heaters wired with MIL-W-22759/16 wire
Pump, relay, power wires, delphi weatherproof plug
Temperature Probe
I picked up a digital thermostat from amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019I3YCFS The thermostat will be wired to control the temperature of the water by triggering the relay that controls the two heating elements. The probe is attached to a stainless steel washer so that it can measure the temp at the bottom of the tank.
Water pickup w/ slight bend to pick up water at the bottom of the tank
All wired and hoses mounted
Tank mounted to frame using stock threaded holes
Part 3 - 1 year update
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HTWP59S
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B7OYCBK
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Y831RM0
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0737LDS4L
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-1841-electrical/dp/B0753J7S1W
https://www.mcmaster.com/#9349k33/=1dswdo4
After living with this thing for a year I noticed there was a few things needing some improvement which were:
1) No water level gauge which caused Flint Michigan water crisis like anxiety
2) The $15 thermostat failed every 2-3 months causing readouts over 250F which makes my 4runner a certified steam engine.
To fix the water level issue I ordered CPWR Guage along with a KUS water level sensor (links above). The thermostat I went with the Blue Seas 1841 unit as well as a tiny temp sensor module so I could monitor water temperature from the rear of the 4runner.
Water level sensor installed and two holes drilled for the Blue Seas temp sensors. The black foam is insulation.
Left shitty sensor vs Blue Seas sensor
Hacked up the trim where the 12v power and USB input goes. Looks ugly but the Blue Seas thermostat is huge!
Drew up and 3D printed a new facia to house the thermostat, dual battery switch, and a new USB high power plug
New center stack layout
Blue Seas smaller temp display. Had to essentially tear apart to rear just to install this
New rear power/info display
Still clean inside after a year with minimal mineral buildup
With these items addressed the tank setup is pretty much perfect barring any issues with the Blue Seas systems. The thermostat is much nicer than my previous one and the display is great. It's capable of having 3 additional temperature readouts but I'm unsure what else I would want to monitor. The rear temp readout will likely be my favorite upgrade for this setup since it'll allow me to monitor temps whenever I hang out in the rear of the 4runner.
c10bonanza
Member
Incredibly clean. Phenomenal work and installation. Everything is well thought-out.
lukeskywalker
New member
Why not just get a Rinse Kit? 
TexasRangerT4r
New member
what gauge MIL-W-22759/16 wire did you use for the OnX6 Dual Control 40" and the 4 Baja Designs S2 PROs
