PORTABLE POWER GENERATOR plans for FEEDBACK

[theladyviola]

Well, I've reviewed my electrical needs over the last couple years as it relates to my tiny teardrop camper trailer. The original builder only wired it for AC power--it basically has one outlet and one light inside. I've never been interested in adding DC because I don't want to tear into interior or the exterior when I know I'll upgrade down the road. On our trip to the Outer Banks last year, there were numerous situations where we could only run our camping generator until a certain time and shore power was not available. I do have a couple of those small battery packs you can charge your cell phone with and it worked good for the little 12v usb fans, but I'd like MORE POWER available. I toyed with installing a dual battery setup in the T4R, but after installing the Northstar 31M in place of my starting battery, I don't feel I need anything else directly in the vehicle. My 12V fridge runs fine and I have adequate room to add more accessories. I didn't like the idea of the camper being tethered to the truck either because we often divide and conquer which means one person is running errands while the other is at camp. So, portability made sense.



I've seen what's available portably, including: jump packs, ArkPak, National Luna Power Pak, battery boxes with external terminals and sockets, etc, etc, etc. With all of these options, I had problems with price or function or reviews. So, what's left to do? Build it myself. I don't particularly feel like having another project right now, but let's face it, making stuff is cool and rewarding. Whatever, I'm seriously saving money. I have hoarded my eBay gift cards and I have a small Lowe's gift card, so my out of pocket expense will be limited to the storage box and the batteries to get the unit up and running.



THIS IS MY PLAN. It will happen in stages for the sake of time, money, and a trip I'd like to use this on next month.



STORAGE

I looked at Lowe's, Home Depot, Academy Sports, Wal-Hell, and online for a "box" I felt would meet my needs at a frugal price (anyone who has looked at the beginnings of my build knows I'm going to by thrifty). I really didn't love the options. I'd love to stumble across a free Pelican case, but that's not going to happen. I narrowed by choices down to a Plano Sportsman trunk and a Kobalt tool box. Neither as sturdy as I'd prefer, but the price and size was generally right. Lucky Facebook Marketplace saved me. Today, I picked up a old 26x15x16 military shipping container for $35. So basically, I got my pseudo-pelican case. I plan to add some more one way valves for ventilation.







BATTERIES

I ran my options for one 12v AGM and I want more aH for the money. So I've looked at golf cart batteries with the intent of wiring two 6v batteries in series. I can get 200aH+ this way. These batteries are also designed for the rigors of life. I'd love to find two free Trojan T-105's, but again, not going to happen, and AGM just became outside my budget. These are the contenders right now:



Duracell SLIGC110

http://www.batteriesplus.com/productdetails/sligc110



Duracell SLIGC115

http://www.batteriesplus.com/productdetails/sligc115



RURAL KING (Excide) GC115G

http://www.ruralking.com/exide-golf-cart-battery-6volt-gc115g.html



Feel free to throw other ideas at me. Mind you, those ideas need to be limited to around $100/battery for 6v and the comparable for 12v



INVERTER

I've researched inverters more than I ever dreamed. I'd love to find a pure sine wave inverter for free, but the free fairy hasn't visited lately. My needs don't seem to dictate having a pure sine wave inverter at this time so I can safely say I won't be spending the money on one just yet. If I charge the fridge off the box, then I'll use the 12v socket. One of my preferences is that the inverter have a wired remote so I can mount it on the outside of the box while the inverter is inside the box. I would like to minimize the need for taking the lid off the box. I've kind of narrowed down to this 1100w inverter from Krieger:

http://www.amazon.com/Inverter-Installation-included-Automotive-according/dp/B00T564EIY

I'm a little disturbed by the number of smoking ones in the reviews, but unless I find another feasible alternative, I'm willing to roll the dice. I'll connect the inverter to a wet location outlet on the outside of the box.



OTHER STUFF

I'll be wiring up the series of batteries with 2/0 marine cable (found a deal) with 100a MEGA FUSE. I may buy a Blue Sea 5030 Fuse Block with Negative Bus just to make future expansion easier. I'll be mounting one of these so I'll have a volt meter, socket, USB charger, power switch:





I also plan to mount a Anderson connector to the outside of the box to charge while driving. I already have a Battery Doctor smart isolator, so I'll hook it up in the engine compartment and then run cable with a Anderson connector to the cargo area of the T4R to attach to the box while driving. I'll also make an exterior connector to quickly connect my Noco G7200 charger.



SOLAR

This will all eventually be maintained with a 100w solar setup. I won't be able to get this going before my Sept trip, so I'll have to rely on the battery charger when I have shore power and the alternator when traveling. For the money, I'm looking at the 100 watt Renogy bundle with the Wanderer controller for around $190. I'll have a solar panel hookup on the outside of the box and the controller will mount inside the box.
https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Watts-Volts-Monocrystalline-Starter/dp/B00BFCNFRM



INCIDENTALS

I'll probably end up installing some temp controlled 12v case fans to keep things cool. Haven't decided on exactly what yet. May install a cheap temp probe and LED display. I also may, down the road, mount a digital energy display.


OK, I know I've forgotten to list stuff, so be gentle. But please give me feedback, suggestions, opinions, etc. Keep in mind, this is a budget build which is why I've chosen the particular items listed. However, I'm up for hearing your thoughts!

 

[techno]

I like your plans and am interested to see what you end up with. How long do you want the set up to last for before it needs to be recharged?

 

[theladyviola]

I like your plans and am interested to see what you end up with. How long do you want the set up to last for before it needs to be recharged?

I'm pretty sure, with my current needs, I'd be able to replenish daily with solar. My fridge runs off a dual purpose marine battery in my 4Runner, but I could also run it off the power box. Without solar, I'm looking to get a few days without recharging, which I think is way more than feasible.


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[theladyviola]

Lots accumulating. The last thing I need to find is time!


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[fourwd1]

Moved to OT.

 

[theladyviola]

Moved to OT.

Thanks! I was torn where to put it since it partially has to do with my T4R projects and wiring but is also not vehicle dependent.


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[TowMeOut]

Looks like a good plan. I'm trying to nail down my power needs so I can start putting together a system. I just picked up a fridge so that's driving some system upgrades. I've got a 400W inverter I picked up for a song that doesn't get used much but is crucial when needed (chaurging/running equipment that's not 12V). Plus, I'd like to add a rear connection for my compressor.

I'm leaning toward a much smaller setup. I've watched a few videos of folks building "portable" power packs using a standard deep cycle battery in a larger box with a movable partition. That leaves enough room in the box for some connections, fuses/breakers, and other wiring needs but still makes a pretty compact and cost effective enclosure.

You look to have a solid plan. My only suggestion might be to scale down on the main fuse or go with a breaker.

https://powerwerx.com/resettable-circuit-breaker-cooper-bussmann

100A is still enough to do some serious damage, melt wires, etc even if the fuse is a fast blow. Unless you plan to charge at really high rates or have some very large loads that high amperage fuse doesn't really provide much protection and is sort of a "worst case scenario".

If you don't mind sharing what was your source of a "good deal" on the cable. I'm getting a bit of sticker shock on the 8awg I'm planning to run to the rear of my rig. Also, on the amplifier and similar wiring kits you really, really have to read the reviews and product details. A lot of companies try and slide in CCA (copper clad aluminum) in place of the solid copper and the sizes can vary wildly. For crimp connections this is a pain but if you're using something where size really matters (set-screw type connections) you'll end up with some loose and/or high-resistance.

I want to go with Anderson connectors for the interconnects. I'm looking for a good crimper and a variety of connector sizes. My understanding is the 15/30/45 amp size connections are the same physical size and will plug into each other. The 50A and larger is a bigger body and isn't directly compatible.

I'm trying to figure out if this is the time to do the "Big 3" upgrade under the hood. My stock cables overall look good but they're certainly not "heavy duty". Some people report brighter headlights, smoother idle, and similar from upgrading the battery cables. That sounds a bit like snake-oil but lower resistance is always better.

 

[theladyviola]

Looks like a good plan. I'm trying to nail down my power needs so I can start putting together a system. I just picked up a fridge so that's driving some system upgrades. I've got a 400W inverter I picked up for a song that doesn't get used much but is crucial when needed (chaurging/running equipment that's not 12V). Plus, I'd like to add a rear connection for my compressor.



I'm leaning toward a much smaller setup. I've watched a few videos of folks building "portable" power packs using a standard deep cycle battery in a larger box with a movable partition. That leaves enough room in the box for some connections, fuses/breakers, and other wiring needs but still makes a pretty compact and cost effective enclosure.



You look to have a solid plan. My only suggestion might be to scale down on the main fuse or go with a breaker.



https://powerwerx.com/resettable-circuit-breaker-cooper-bussmann



100A is still enough to do some serious damage, melt wires, etc even if the fuse is a fast blow. Unless you plan to charge at really high rates or have some very large loads that high amperage fuse doesn't really provide much protection and is sort of a "worst case scenario".



If you don't mind sharing what was your source of a "good deal" on the cable. I'm getting a bit of sticker shock on the 8awg I'm planning to run to the rear of my rig. Also, on the amplifier and similar wiring kits you really, really have to read the reviews and product details. A lot of companies try and slide in CCA (copper clad aluminum) in place of the solid copper and the sizes can vary wildly. For crimp connections this is a pain but if you're using something where size really matters (set-screw type connections) you'll end up with some loose and/or high-resistance.



I want to go with Anderson connectors for the interconnects. I'm looking for a good crimper and a variety of connector sizes. My understanding is the 15/30/45 amp size connections are the same physical size and will plug into each other. The 50A and larger is a bigger body and isn't directly compatible.



I'm trying to figure out if this is the time to do the "Big 3" upgrade under the hood. My stock cables overall look good but they're certainly not "heavy duty". Some people report brighter headlights, smoother idle, and similar from upgrading the battery cables. That sounds a bit like snake-oil but lower resistance is always better.

I've been sticking with tinned copper, no CCA. I ran across 2/0 Ancor marine cable for 3.49/ft on eBay and I've never seen it that low. The seller gaugewireandcable on eBay also has reasonable prices. I picked up 20ft of 8 awg tinned marine cable for under $15+ shipping. Found 6 awg tinned marine cable for 99¢/ft from the seller curtisllc. I was skeptical of the quality, but after receiving it and sacrificing a half inch so I could pick it apart, it looks pretty good.

I need to do the Big 3. I said when I installed a second battery that I'd do it, but now that the 2nd battery is not going in the engine compartment and I'm building the whole thing, it will have to wait. If the seller still has the 2/0 at the price I got it, then that's what I'll use for the Big 3.

I'm using a circuit breaker between my main battery and the Blue Sea fuse panel in the engine compartment. When I was reading up on using Anderson connectors to charge a trailer battery, it was recommended to use 100A mega fuses because of reported problems of other fuses snapping way under their limits. Some Aussie companies even sell their kits with 100a mega fuses. Those are some caravaning fools! That's the only reason I went so big. I agree with you on the damage that can be done. My Andersons will all be the SB50 model.

I referenced this site for some info
http://www.fridge-and-solar.net/dual_bat.htm
and a lot of other sites. I'm not thrilled with the potential weight but I know, in the years to come, I will upgrade from my tiny teardrop trailer to around a 4000lb 17-20ft travel trailer. If I'm putting money into it, I'm essentially getting around 215AH for $200 in batteries vs $100 for 90AH for a single group 27 deep cycle. I like the fact the golf batteries are designed for major vibration and longevity. Plus I don't want to take my setup below 50% discharge so I need more AH to start with. The plan, when in use, is to just set it on my trailer tongue and not touch it again until I'm packing up and heading out. But my initial plans were to use a upg battery box or something similar with a group 24 or 27 battery.



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[big44g]

Sounds like you have a plan. You could use automotive grade wire instead on marine grade to save a little money. I kept my teardrop and 4runner electrical systems separate. When designing my Teardrop I did not include AC, my entire Teardrop is 30A 12v DC. I have a 125Ah battery and two Renogy 100w 12v panels. It will last about three days without a charge. I also have a portable 150watt inverter and my teardrop includes a AC/DC charger for the battery when AC power is available to charge battery only. I'm running LED lights, Fan-tastic fan, and a water pump. As always you do have to watch your usage. You will want to consider your battery bank size vs solar panels. Basically you want to make sure that your solar panels will recharge your usage each day.

 

[MN4runnerman]

Where did you get that voltmeter/USB charger thing?

 

[theladyviola]

Where did you get that voltmeter/USB charger thing?

eBay
https://www.ebay.com/itm/112343635617

It's a cheap one. I paid $16.49 shipped from a US distributor but you can get them cheaper if you wait for it to come from China. I had originally ordered a Blue Sea 4356 panel that included a usb charger, 12v socket, and oled display. After waiting for over a month of it being on backorder (new item) and no indication of when it would ship, I canceled and configured the panel with individual accessories. I was able to get the faster Blue Sea smart usb charger that way. I couldn't see spending $35+ on the individual oled voltmeter from Blue Sea so I bought the cheaper one on eBay. Plus I liked the idea of having the ammeter with a built in shunt.


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[theladyviola]

Where did you get that voltmeter/USB charger thing?

Wait, I don't think I answered your question. The panel (one closest) in the pic with all horizontal accessories is one I put together with:

-Blue Sea 4357- 3x blank aperture BelowDeck panel
-Blue Sea 1011 socket
-Blue Sea 1045 usb charger
-eBay voltmeter/ammeter

The square panel came from eBay.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/122566213796
Again, cheaper if it comes from China.




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[MN4runnerman]

Wait, I don't think I answered your question. The panel (one closest) in the pic with all horizontal accessories is one I put together with:

-Blue Sea 4357- 3x blank aperture BelowDeck panel
-Blue Sea 1011 socket
-Blue Sea 1045 usb charger
-eBay voltmeter/ammeter

The square panel came from eBay.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/122566213796
Again, cheaper if it comes from China.




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Thanks! Either one works. I wired up solar panels and led lights to a 31 series battery in one of our cabins on my family's property and I was looking for a voltmeter that looks nice instead of the plain gauge that I can get at work.

 

[theladyviola]

Thanks! Either one works. I wired up solar panels and led lights to a 31 series battery in one of our cabins on my family's property and I was looking for a voltmeter that looks nice instead of the plain gauge that I can get at work.

Down the road, I'm thinking of installing this one. For cheap from China, the reviews are pretty decent.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/400969599170


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[theladyviola]

I'm still tossing around venting ideas as I'd like the box to remain as low profile (no long snorkel hanging out) and waterproof (which will end up just highly water resistant) as I can. I've looked at these Gore vents to mount on the lid of the box:
https://www.gore.com/news-events/news/venting-protective-news-high-airflow-us

And I've also looked at these

https://www.stego.de/us/products/accessories/ventilation-devices/vent-plug-ip66-ul-type-1-4-4x.html

Any suggestions that meet my criteria?



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[theladyviola]

Think I'm just going to suck it up and do the cooling fans now instead of adding more vents. This is my quick and crude sketch for any feedback. I'm not an electrical expert by any means but I'm not completely daft either. Let me know any thoughts please.

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