JZiggy
Senior Member
Well Leon designed this awesome bracket. So he’s the crafty guy here. I just bolted my own nonsense onto it.
JZiggy's "Grown Up" 4Runner Build
- Thread starter JZiggy
- Start date
Well Leon designed this awesome bracket. So he’s the crafty guy here. I just bolted my own nonsense onto it.
JBurt
Senior Member
That is very handy. I have lived in the southwest desert my whole life, so I don't know the rust struggles that other people do. The only really rusty nut I've had to tackle on my truck was where the ac evaporator had constantly dripped onto my sway bar end link. I also extended the drain to prevent that, but as usual your solution is much more elegant.
JZiggy
Senior Member
I was thinking too that it would be cool to capture the condensate water for offroad trips. Maybe wouldn't drink it but you could certainly rinse dishes.
habanero
Senior Member
Nifty!
LittleCaesar
New member
Another day and another oil analysis report. Best I can tell this 3RZ has decided it will simply never wear out.
That report looks great. Still running the 5w40 Mobil? One of the national chains had it on sale the other month, forgot to link it to you ($15 for five quarts I think).
As [MENTION=116877]fourfive[/MENTION] can attest to, having a battery powered impact is a game changer :bolt:
JZiggy
Senior Member
Yeah I've been bouncing between a pile of Rotella Gas Truck 5W-30 I got on sale and some Mobil or Rotella 5W-40 diesel full synth. The diesel seems to give slightly lower wear numbers, though the statistical significance is questionable, so I'll probably lean toward 5W-40 diesel for the future.
fourfive
Senior Member
Would be interesting to see how much water could be collected after a full day's drive. Liking your bracket & bolt set up for your ac drain tube. Looks more refined than my zip tie.
phattyduck
Elite Member
In the desert? Often none... If the dew point is below about 40*F, you won't get anything out the drain.
-Charlie
JBurt
Senior Member
I get tons of water out of mine, but it gets really humid here in august. 115* and humid sucks
JZiggy
Senior Member
A few months ago I started to notice some strange resonances that seemed to be coming from the exhaust system. At certain loads/RPMs there would be vibes transferred into the cabin and sometimes into the shifters. I experimented with some clamp-on exhaust dampers that seemed to help a bit but not much. Recently I started to get an annoying backpressure-ish sounding whine when the engine would spool down between shifts and it was annoying the crap out of me. I realized my OEM muffler was looking pretty decroded and sounded weird when I knocked on it.
Picked up a new muffler and tailpipe. This is the basic Walker kit that uses all bolt-on flanges and matches the OEM routing. No welding or nonsense required. First step is to remove all the dadgum stickers and the leftover goo so it doesn't burn up.
Old exhaust removed
Took a peek into the backside of the catalytic converter. Looks pretty good from what I can tell.
Shiny new tailpipe! Woo!
So far so good. Everything installed without a hitch and another big thanks due to [MENTION=116877]fourfive[/MENTION] for helping me get this installed. So much easier to finagle this crap with another set of hands. All the exhaust noises seem to be gone. The exhaust tone is nice a quiet and sounds just like OEM -- just a nice puttery little 4 banger like Toyota intended it to be.
Picked up a new muffler and tailpipe. This is the basic Walker kit that uses all bolt-on flanges and matches the OEM routing. No welding or nonsense required. First step is to remove all the dadgum stickers and the leftover goo so it doesn't burn up.
Old exhaust removed
Took a peek into the backside of the catalytic converter. Looks pretty good from what I can tell.
Shiny new tailpipe! Woo!
So far so good. Everything installed without a hitch and another big thanks due to [MENTION=116877]fourfive[/MENTION] for helping me get this installed. So much easier to finagle this crap with another set of hands. All the exhaust noises seem to be gone. The exhaust tone is nice a quiet and sounds just like OEM -- just a nice puttery little 4 banger like Toyota intended it to be.
JZiggy
Senior Member
Figured I should put a link in my build thread to the Dobinsons IMS 2" lift and JBA UCA install and details. Awesome upgrade and rides like a dream!
JZiggy
Senior Member
280k valve adjustment. I was NOT looking forward to this one because the rearmost exhaust valve had been slowly tightening and I knew it was going to need attention this time. Measured out at 10 thou with the range being 10-14 thou.
[MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] in case this information is helpful for the 3RZ valve adjustment video
Last time I tried I was unable to get the bucket pusher-downer pliers in there. So I had to get creative. Two tools made the difference:
- Long flat screwdriver covered in electrical tape
- Toyota bucket holder 09248-05420. The Schley one was not the right size and did not work well here.
Looking squeaky clean in there
Timing chain adjuster still 7 teeth out, hasn't moved in 50k
Push down on the shim with the screwdriver, sneak the holder in from the back
Pressed down and ready to remove shim
The "7" side was perfect for this operation
[MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] in case this information is helpful for the 3RZ valve adjustment video
Last time I tried I was unable to get the bucket pusher-downer pliers in there. So I had to get creative. Two tools made the difference:
- Long flat screwdriver covered in electrical tape
- Toyota bucket holder 09248-05420. The Schley one was not the right size and did not work well here.
Looking squeaky clean in there
Timing chain adjuster still 7 teeth out, hasn't moved in 50k
Push down on the shim with the screwdriver, sneak the holder in from the back
Pressed down and ready to remove shim
The "7" side was perfect for this operation
Reading this thread partially makes me want to sell my 97 limited and find one with a 3rz. Love the simplicity and efficient stuff you've done!
I'm also fairly local to you, I'm about an hour north of Atlanta right by the lake. I feel like I once followed your 1st gen stuff on pirate years ago.
I'm also fairly local to you, I'm about an hour north of Atlanta right by the lake. I feel like I once followed your 1st gen stuff on pirate years ago.
JZiggy
Senior Member
Hey, thanks for reaching out. The 3RZ is super uncommon and having driven and wheeled with folks with the V6/Auto the latter is honestly a more practical drivetrain in most cases... I'm just crazy for doinky little engines. It's fun to work on and easy.
My 1st gen crap was mostly on YotaTech, very little on Pirate from what I recall.
JZiggy
Senior Member
E-brake cable replacement time!!! 
izza: :beer: izza:
When my welder friend and I installed my PCK we made a small boo boo with the flap wheel and abraded away some of the parking brake cable sheathing down near the driver side rear wheel. The cable was still fully functional and would have worked fine but the engineer in me was not willing to keep using a compromised critical safety component. Especially in light of the recent tragedy with the cable car crash in Italy -- if you read up on that you'll find that BOTH parking brake mechanisms were defeated since they were malfunctioning which led to the crash. :crazy:
The writeup by [MENTION=5345]habanero[/MENTION] was a great help in giving me a sneak peek on what I was in for. As always I am appreciative of the excellent technical content folks post up to help out the community here.
There are a number of OEM part numbers that reference things like "for 16" wheels" or "except 16" wheels" or "except 265/70R16" etc. I found the part number 46410-35771 that matched my original setup: RZN185 (4cyl 4WD) with 15" wheels and also found this is the only one with a PINK sticker which mine had originally. I honestly have no idea if these other part numbers are different or not. Aftermarket replacement cables are one-size-fits-all for 96-02 T4Rs.
Here's the part in all its factory fresh glory
Checked the original tightness setting. Note there are two flange nuts in a jamnut setup.
The only deviation from Habanero's writeup was that I went ahead and took the parking handle off which made it easier to get the cable out of it. Old and new cables compared here. All the lengths were basically the same. The bracket near the middle on the old one gets moved over to the new one.
Install took about 2 hours going nice and slow with time to wirebrush the old bolts and clean the hinge areas. Always a pleasure to see new components.
When setting the tension I was only able to get one nut onto the cable. I expect this is because the old cable was longer from stretching or possibly the length was 1/4" off from the original. Since there was not room for a pair of jamnuts I opted for a washer and a single nylock nut which will do the same job. The FSM states that the 44 lb of pulling force should yield 7-9 clicks provided the rear drums are adjusted correctly (which they are in this case). I actually put a short strap on the handle and pulled it with a force gauge getting the correct force just at 8 clicks.
All done!
izza: :beer: izza:When my welder friend and I installed my PCK we made a small boo boo with the flap wheel and abraded away some of the parking brake cable sheathing down near the driver side rear wheel. The cable was still fully functional and would have worked fine but the engineer in me was not willing to keep using a compromised critical safety component. Especially in light of the recent tragedy with the cable car crash in Italy -- if you read up on that you'll find that BOTH parking brake mechanisms were defeated since they were malfunctioning which led to the crash. :crazy:
The writeup by [MENTION=5345]habanero[/MENTION] was a great help in giving me a sneak peek on what I was in for. As always I am appreciative of the excellent technical content folks post up to help out the community here.
There are a number of OEM part numbers that reference things like "for 16" wheels" or "except 16" wheels" or "except 265/70R16" etc. I found the part number 46410-35771 that matched my original setup: RZN185 (4cyl 4WD) with 15" wheels and also found this is the only one with a PINK sticker which mine had originally. I honestly have no idea if these other part numbers are different or not. Aftermarket replacement cables are one-size-fits-all for 96-02 T4Rs.
Here's the part in all its factory fresh glory
Checked the original tightness setting. Note there are two flange nuts in a jamnut setup.
The only deviation from Habanero's writeup was that I went ahead and took the parking handle off which made it easier to get the cable out of it. Old and new cables compared here. All the lengths were basically the same. The bracket near the middle on the old one gets moved over to the new one.
Install took about 2 hours going nice and slow with time to wirebrush the old bolts and clean the hinge areas. Always a pleasure to see new components.
When setting the tension I was only able to get one nut onto the cable. I expect this is because the old cable was longer from stretching or possibly the length was 1/4" off from the original. Since there was not room for a pair of jamnuts I opted for a washer and a single nylock nut which will do the same job. The FSM states that the 44 lb of pulling force should yield 7-9 clicks provided the rear drums are adjusted correctly (which they are in this case). I actually put a short strap on the handle and pulled it with a force gauge getting the correct force just at 8 clicks.
All done!
Last edited:
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