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Old 12-22-2021, 08:24 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Citrus Heights, California
Age: 36
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Real Name: Jerod
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gamefreakgc gamefreakgc is offline
Elite Member
gamefreakgc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Citrus Heights, California
Age: 36
Posts: 7,338
Real Name: Jerod
gamefreakgc has a brilliant future gamefreakgc has a brilliant future gamefreakgc has a brilliant future gamefreakgc has a brilliant future gamefreakgc has a brilliant future gamefreakgc has a brilliant future gamefreakgc has a brilliant future gamefreakgc has a brilliant future gamefreakgc has a brilliant future gamefreakgc has a brilliant future gamefreakgc has a brilliant future
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pyral View Post
I successfully removed the cam shaft. It is extremely unnerving because the slightest discrepancy in how much you've unscrewed each of the bearing cap bolts can mean the difference between being able to remove the camshaft or not.

My first attempt I let out the front bearing caps too much, so I was unable to remove the rear bearing caps. I screwed down the center bearing cap and the front bearing cap, and with some persuasion I was able to remove the rear bearing cap with my fingers. I was extremely careful, didn't use any prying tools. I'm so glad nothing went snap.

I had one snag. I used the valve cover bolt for my service bolt, but the end of the bolt is too thick and it blocks be from being able to spin off the front bearing cap. The service bolt is all the way torqued down, and I want to remove the front bearing cap so I can clean the bearing surface when I put it back together. Any suggestions?
I keep mine half way torqued and it fits in between the oil gap in the head and the spark plug tube so I can even rotate the engine over with the bolt in and it doesn't hit anything. 3RZ might be a bit different but it doesn't have to be threaded all the way so the head of the bolt is touching the gear, if that makes sense at all.
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'98 4Runner SR5 - 4x4 JDM 5VZ-FE Supercharged - 249K miles.
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