Quote:
Originally Posted by scfw0x0f
That all sounds great but I'd rather have an over-spec alternator than have to monitor alternator temperatures personally, or chance losing charging capacity due to an overload. A 60A fuse only means that the wiring is expected to handle more than 60A, and the load is expected to draw less; it doesn't really indicate actual load. I would expect 40A out, same voltage in and out, would draw 42A to 44A for a reasonably efficient regulator.
I think the inverter power being derated by Toyota from 400W (in park) to 100W (in drive) is indicative of how much (or little) power is available from the alternator. I agree, in a lot of cases the stock alternator is probably fine for this application. I'm still going to hold out for the DC Power alternator, just because I want the extra capacity, and may add more loads later.
Thanks for sharing your solution. It sounds very useful for a lot of users.
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I think I dropped in on this thread after you already made your decision, but I had a question for my own learning.
You say “rather have an over spec alternator than have to monitor alternator temperatures”.
Would the heat build in the alternator (vs the wires, if the wires were not insufficient) in the case that the charging rate of your system exceeded the available current of the stock alternator? Would there just be a voltage drop? Both?
If there are options for multiple alternators on the 4Runner, I’ve toyed with the idea of having one be a 24V alternator (seen some up to 150A) to charge accessory batteries more efficiently.
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