JZiggy
Senior Member
If your ride is "very harsh" I don't think swapping body mounts is all of the problem. It was a marginal, but noticeable, improvement.
JZiggy's "Grown Up" 4Runner Build
- Thread starter JZiggy
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If your ride is "very harsh" I don't think swapping body mounts is all of the problem. It was a marginal, but noticeable, improvement.
sleepydad
Senior Member
I agree with JZiggy. I have done all of those things and it all makes a difference. A system is the sum of it's parts.
tires, bushing, mounts, springs, shocks.
I think tires, springs, shocks make the biggest part but the bushings and body mounts also made a noticeable difference in my ride quality.
jross20
New member
Well maybe not from a "cushion" perspective, but maybe just a "keeping the frame tightly held to the body" perspective?
I don't want to hijack the thread, so I'll keep it light and do some more research elsewhere. I'm curious if the body mounts were in bad enough condition that when you go over rough terrain and stuff, perhaps some of the jarringness is the frame and body kind of rattling against each other loosely rather than acting as one with a little flex.
Time to do research!
MrWalkaway
New member
First of all, I just wanted to say thanks for this thread. I'm also attempting a mini-mod build of my 4R, small pieces at a time to make the ride more comfortable for my family. We plan to use it as an everyday driver, and I won't be doing much in the way of off-roading, but a lot of your other mods are just what I need.
Where did you get this hood lift struts? I don't know if my google-fu is just failing me, or they are really that hard to find, but I can't seem to come across anything that will fit mine.
Took a great trip to Death Valley and some areas east of the Sierras.
Hood struts in action during airup time
Where did you get this hood lift struts? I don't know if my google-fu is just failing me, or they are really that hard to find, but I can't seem to come across anything that will fit mine.
JZiggy
Senior Member
I visited a local welder, MKG Fab up in Suwanee, to knock out a couple of projects. Michael was awesome to work with and did a great job.
He TIG welded up the crack on my seat bolt mount (sorry I failed to get a good picture of this before putting the interior back together).
He also put on the Freel Good Performance axle bash plate (aka diff diaper)
I'll let the pictures speak for themselves!
I drained and refilled the diff oil immediately after welding as per instructions. Leaving the oil in the diff during welding helps it act as a heat sink to keep the axle from getting too hot.
:thumb:
He TIG welded up the crack on my seat bolt mount (sorry I failed to get a good picture of this before putting the interior back together).
He also put on the Freel Good Performance axle bash plate (aka diff diaper)
I'll let the pictures speak for themselves!
I drained and refilled the diff oil immediately after welding as per instructions. Leaving the oil in the diff during welding helps it act as a heat sink to keep the axle from getting too hot.
:thumb:
poisedforflight
New member
Forgot to mention, I also installed my [MENTION=89792]bhicks[/MENTION] 3D printed rear cupholders. Man these things rock! I've had the backseat full of passengers a few times and they love them too.
Update: Nearly 3 years in and this is *still* one of my favorite mods!
Can these still be found?
JBurt
Senior Member
poisedforflight
New member
Thanks!
JZiggy
Senior Member
Picked up a nice pair of horns from a 4th gen. They are a newer design than the 3rd gen ones and are a louder, clearer tone. Best part is they plug right in!
They are bigger so I had to move my resistor out of the way (it's there to let my high-beam indicator work with LED headlights). I also had to slot out the hole of the driver side horn a bit to help it clear the AC hard line, but that was a minor modification.
They are bigger so I had to move my resistor out of the way (it's there to let my high-beam indicator work with LED headlights). I also had to slot out the hole of the driver side horn a bit to help it clear the AC hard line, but that was a minor modification.
RodrickHeffley
Member
Picked up a nice pair of horns from a 4th gen. They are a newer design than the 3rd gen ones and are a louder, clearer tone. Best part is they plug right in!
They are bigger so I had to move my resistor out of the way (it's there to let my high-beam indicator work with LED headlights). I also had to slot out the hole of the driver side horn a bit to help it clear the AC hard line, but that was a minor modification.
Looks great! I've been thinking of swapping my 91 Mercedes horns to something from a mid 2000s toyota, I like how the 4th gens sound, I'll have to find some sometime
Picked up a nice pair of horns from a 4th gen. They are a newer design than the 3rd gen ones and are a louder, clearer tone. Best part is they plug right in!
They are bigger so I had to move my resistor out of the way (it's there to let my high-beam indicator work with LED headlights). I also had to slot out the hole of the driver side horn a bit to help it clear the AC hard line, but that was a minor modification.
Do you have a write-up somewhere talking about the resistors? I put Lasfit LED bulbs in recently and my high-beam indicator no longer works, but I am not very smart when it comes to electronics. I'd love to hear how you worked it out!
JZiggy
Senior Member
Here you go. Hopefully you can decipher your answer from my stream-of-consciousness writeup.
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3599586-post406.html
JZiggy
Senior Member
Some stuff! I realized my license plates lights were super dirty. Took the lenses off, cleaned them, and put fresh bulbs in cuz the originals were kind of hazy. Old on left new on right.
Got a steering rack bracket upgrade from 333 Fab for a present! This fits the bushing more snugly, can't corrode, and is actually stiffer than the OEM so the rack can't deflect as much. I also took the opportunity to pull the stud out, clean all the threads, and reinstall the stud with some loctite.
Got a steering rack bracket upgrade from 333 Fab for a present! This fits the bushing more snugly, can't corrode, and is actually stiffer than the OEM so the rack can't deflect as much. I also took the opportunity to pull the stud out, clean all the threads, and reinstall the stud with some loctite.
habanero
Senior Member
Ooh, that's snazzy!
Rushthezeppelin
New member
Some stuff! I realized my license plates lights were super dirty. Took the lenses off, cleaned them, and put fresh bulbs in cuz the originals were kind of hazy. Old on left new on right.
Got a steering rack bracket upgrade from 333 Fab for a present! This fits the bushing more snugly, can't corrode, and is actually stiffer than the OEM so the rack can't deflect as much. I also took the opportunity to pull the stud out, clean all the threads, and reinstall the stud with some loctite.
Lol I had the same issue with those license plate lights. Got an LED upgrade pack for interior lights and it also came with those bulbs. Looked back there and realized the ones in there were burnt out. Got them out and also realized there as a ton of dust in there and even a spiderweb in one (no clue how the hell a spider gets in there).
Seems like it would make more sense to do the poly bushing upgrade first if you are worried about a tighter rack or are those black poly bushings?
JZiggy
Senior Member
Yep, poly steering rack bushings was one of the first mods I did to this truck. That bushing was still in fine shape.
fourfive
Senior Member
I can actually see a little movement in my steering rack at that bushing turning my wheel lock to lock. I always assumed it was an issue with my poly bushing but wondering now if it could be my oem bracket.
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