I second this explanation.
JZiggy's "Grown Up" 4Runner Build
- Thread starter JZiggy
- Start date
I second this explanation.
JZiggy
Senior Member
It was a blast having Timmy [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] visit recently. We got to do some projects, make a couple videos, and do some wheeling in the North GA mountains.
One of those times when the stars align... finishing a day wheeling trip, just pulled into a favorite BBQ joint, and hit 300k on the nose
More on the projects and repairs later...
One of those times when the stars align... finishing a day wheeling trip, just pulled into a favorite BBQ joint, and hit 300k on the nose
More on the projects and repairs later...
mtbtim
Elite Member
It was a blast having Timmy [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] visit recently. We got to do some projects, make a couple videos, and do some wheeling in the North GA mountains.
One of those times when the stars align... finishing a day wheeling trip, just pulled into a favorite BBQ joint, and hit 300k on the nose
More on the projects and repairs later...
It was a great visit Jordan. You're one of my favorite Dudes to turn wrenches with. Jobs just seem to go well when we team up. I've got all 3 videos we filmed together edited and ready for Sean to finalize. I asked Sean to get the Spiker Engineering video done first.
phattyduck
Elite Member
Man, it took you over 20 years to finally break it in. You can finally take it to redline!One of those times when the stars align... finishing a day wheeling trip, just pulled into a favorite BBQ joint, and hit 300k on the nose
-Charlie
charlesakamush
New member
clean as ****
JZiggy
Senior Member
First project we tackled was 3RZ water pump, thermostat, and drive belts. Tim & Sean released a video.
Since the pump is on the front of the engine it is very easy to pull. The old Aisin one I had on there had about 80k -- just preventative maintenance.
New pump
You can kinda see it in there!
Since the pump is on the front of the engine it is very easy to pull. The old Aisin one I had on there had about 80k -- just preventative maintenance.
New pump
You can kinda see it in there!
Last edited:
JZiggy
Senior Member
Good idea to do both at once for sure. I highly recommend the upgraded flathead hex drive bolts for the oil pump.
phattyduck
Elite Member
If its like most other Toyota engines, it'll either be the o-ring seal or the shaft seal, which are easy to replace. No need to do the pump itself.
-Charlie
JZiggy
Senior Member
The other project Timmy and I tackled while he was here was replacing my steering rack. We didn't video it obviously since Tim & Sean have a repair video on their channel already. But I couldn't pass up the opportunity to have the expert himself help me complete this project.
My original rack had 300k on it and it wasn't giving me any issues. The pass side had been weeping for quite some time (long enough that the PO had a note in the dealership history stating that at like 200k a replacement had been recommended and declined!) and in the last few months the driver side started to weep too. I had snagged an OEM reman early this year to have on hand so it was a good time to knock it out.
Out with the old, compare with the new. Note the new rack has the new style racking bushing so no need to fool with that again.
While it was out I changed the rag joint, it was about $35 on Amayama. The old one was fine but upon inspection it clearly had a lot of cracks developing
The OEM pressure side hose was also fine but I took the opportunity to replace it. The OEM ones are like $200+ so I went with a $50 Edelmann which I'm sure will work well. One note is that the nut on the aftermarket one is 16mm and NOT the original 17mm size.
I had to trim down the silver stopper bar on the banjo fitting to get it to fit into the proper orientation. Used an OEM double-ended copper crush washer as well
While the low pressure tube was accessible as well I changed out the lower soft line. I had just enough of that stuff in my parts pile to do it, thankfully. I also popped a new inline filter in there.
We installed it with new OEM outer tie rods. I left the new OEM rubber bushings in place and got a new Energy suspension pass side bushing to put under the nifty 333 rack clamp.
After a test drive we recentered the wheel by moving the rag joint a couple of spline teeth over. The alignment is surprisingly good and I'll report back after my shop aligns it.
Thanks again [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] for the help! Everything is working great now and we're good on steering stuff until the engine gives out LOL!
My original rack had 300k on it and it wasn't giving me any issues. The pass side had been weeping for quite some time (long enough that the PO had a note in the dealership history stating that at like 200k a replacement had been recommended and declined!) and in the last few months the driver side started to weep too. I had snagged an OEM reman early this year to have on hand so it was a good time to knock it out.
Out with the old, compare with the new. Note the new rack has the new style racking bushing so no need to fool with that again.
While it was out I changed the rag joint, it was about $35 on Amayama. The old one was fine but upon inspection it clearly had a lot of cracks developing
The OEM pressure side hose was also fine but I took the opportunity to replace it. The OEM ones are like $200+ so I went with a $50 Edelmann which I'm sure will work well. One note is that the nut on the aftermarket one is 16mm and NOT the original 17mm size.
I had to trim down the silver stopper bar on the banjo fitting to get it to fit into the proper orientation. Used an OEM double-ended copper crush washer as well
While the low pressure tube was accessible as well I changed out the lower soft line. I had just enough of that stuff in my parts pile to do it, thankfully. I also popped a new inline filter in there.
We installed it with new OEM outer tie rods. I left the new OEM rubber bushings in place and got a new Energy suspension pass side bushing to put under the nifty 333 rack clamp.
After a test drive we recentered the wheel by moving the rag joint a couple of spline teeth over. The alignment is surprisingly good and I'll report back after my shop aligns it.
Thanks again [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] for the help! Everything is working great now and we're good on steering stuff until the engine gives out LOL!
phattyduck
Elite Member
Make sure you also have the same amount of travel from center to lock in each direction - that will make sure you are centered on the rack itself. There's also a spec of some number of mm or less in exposed thread mismatch at the outer tie rods to help verify everything is centered.
Good info on the rag joint - I don't know why I hadn't thought about replacing it before.
-Charlie
JZiggy
Senior Member
Thanks! Yes we measured very carefully before putting the new rack in. I also verified that the knuckles hit the steering stops on both sides, so there's no limitation in movement.
JZiggy
Senior Member
JZiggy
Senior Member
Wow, it has definitely been too long since updating this thread! I finally have a few things to share, and here's the first one:
I've been suspicious that my fuel economy has dropped, seeing some tanks not hit 20mpg when I usually hover just above that. Winter fuel blend, longer warmup times, etc are probably contributing a bit but I wanted to chase down a couple of suspicions first.
1) When I first got this truck I changed the water pump and thermostat, probably late 2016 or early 2017. I did that job again recently (with Timmy!) as PM since it had been 80k or so. I used an standard 82C Aisin thermostat which seemed like a good choice vs. OEM...
Previously my operating temp via Scangauge was always about 182-184F. It rarely deviated. With the new thermostat I was seeing 172-176F which is definitely too low. The operating temp should be a little above the thermostat setpoint (180F) and certainly not below it.
Fortunately I had kept my old OEM thermostat as a spare (don't know if it's actually 1999 original or was changed by the dealer sometime pre 200k). I tested it in a pot of water and it matched FSM specs perfectly: starts to open at 184F, and is wide open around 200F.
The Teq logo stamped on parts is always a good thing :biggrin1: So I popped that one in yesterday, and now my operating temps are back at around 185F. I'm suspicious that the truck was still trying to get out of warmup mode and the too-cold Aisin thermostat was not letting it.
2) Mid 2022 I upgraded to some 12-hole Osidetiger fuel injectors which I have really liked. When Leon tried this upgrade on his V6 he had poor results and documented some excessive fuel trims from his OBD2 scanner. I wanted to see what the case was with mine.
I grabbed some screenshots of the scanner at warm highway cruise before and after swapping the thermostats.
Before:
After:
In both cases the upstream O2 sensor appears to be working properly (oscillating quickly from 0.1V to 0.8V).
For long term fuel trim (LTFT) With the cold thermostat I got:
+5.5% at warm cruise
-13.5% at warm idle
With OEM thermostat:
+7% at warm cruise
-7.8% at warm idle
It's not surprising that the LTFT should be nonzero with aftermarket injectors. Surely they have slightly different base flowrates and flow dynamics. It looks like at cruise the computer has to slightly increase the fuel flow and at idle it slightly decreases. Since the trims are within a +/- 10% range I don't think there is any issue -- the computer has plenty of latitude to compensate based on what the O2 sensor is telling it regarding rich/lean.
Fingers crossed that getting back to normal operating temps will improve my gas mileage!
I've been suspicious that my fuel economy has dropped, seeing some tanks not hit 20mpg when I usually hover just above that. Winter fuel blend, longer warmup times, etc are probably contributing a bit but I wanted to chase down a couple of suspicions first.
1) When I first got this truck I changed the water pump and thermostat, probably late 2016 or early 2017. I did that job again recently (with Timmy!) as PM since it had been 80k or so. I used an standard 82C Aisin thermostat which seemed like a good choice vs. OEM...
Previously my operating temp via Scangauge was always about 182-184F. It rarely deviated. With the new thermostat I was seeing 172-176F which is definitely too low. The operating temp should be a little above the thermostat setpoint (180F) and certainly not below it.
Fortunately I had kept my old OEM thermostat as a spare (don't know if it's actually 1999 original or was changed by the dealer sometime pre 200k). I tested it in a pot of water and it matched FSM specs perfectly: starts to open at 184F, and is wide open around 200F.
The Teq logo stamped on parts is always a good thing :biggrin1: So I popped that one in yesterday, and now my operating temps are back at around 185F. I'm suspicious that the truck was still trying to get out of warmup mode and the too-cold Aisin thermostat was not letting it.
2) Mid 2022 I upgraded to some 12-hole Osidetiger fuel injectors which I have really liked. When Leon tried this upgrade on his V6 he had poor results and documented some excessive fuel trims from his OBD2 scanner. I wanted to see what the case was with mine.
I grabbed some screenshots of the scanner at warm highway cruise before and after swapping the thermostats.
Before:
After:
In both cases the upstream O2 sensor appears to be working properly (oscillating quickly from 0.1V to 0.8V).
For long term fuel trim (LTFT) With the cold thermostat I got:
+5.5% at warm cruise
-13.5% at warm idle
With OEM thermostat:
+7% at warm cruise
-7.8% at warm idle
It's not surprising that the LTFT should be nonzero with aftermarket injectors. Surely they have slightly different base flowrates and flow dynamics. It looks like at cruise the computer has to slightly increase the fuel flow and at idle it slightly decreases. Since the trims are within a +/- 10% range I don't think there is any issue -- the computer has plenty of latitude to compensate based on what the O2 sensor is telling it regarding rich/lean.
Fingers crossed that getting back to normal operating temps will improve my gas mileage!
thezentree
Senior Member
lol whatever nerd
Srs: I'm interested to see your results. I think it's cool that you're trying to science out every last MPG you can get, and I would definitely benefit from doing the same.
Spiker Engineering
official vendor
I agree, I wouldn't worry about +/-7% LTFT - recall that mine were closer to -18% after putting in the Osidetiger injectors. Before that, LTFT was right around 0% (and returned to 0% after putting in the OEM injectors).
Also, on the 3.4L injectors, Osidetiger removed the lower o-rings, which in theory could allow fuel to flow back into the plenum (and recall that I did find fuel in my TB). But as I recall, your 2.4L injectors retained the lower o-rings, so I think you're immune to that phenomenon.
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