JZiggy's "Grown Up" 4Runner Build

Another oil analysis report! Back to 5k intervals for simplicity. Last two reports showed a bit of Manganese which is interesting -- I hear this is from fuel additives, but I don't think it's in the Techron that I use now and again. Fuel companies can put an additive called MMT in their gas that I think raises the octane. Sounds like this is found in non-top tier gasolines, so maybe I picked some up at some crappy gas stations out in the backwoods.

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Installed Marlin Crawler LCA Frame Brace kit

These little plates fit snugly around the OEM cam adjuster hardware crap and get welded in place. They back up the hardware so it can't shift around and greatly stiffen up the flanges that the LCAs mount into.

I numbered them by location and spent some time sanding and filing so they dropped into place perfectly to save my welder some time. In some spots there was some factory weld blobs so I had to hog out quite a bit.

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Here's an example of on in place before welding

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I painted the brackets with weld-through primer. My welder and I decided not to stress trying to weld every possible inch of the perimeter, just what was able to be reached easily. He did not have to disturb the steering rack or the CVs. There was not any issue with the welding heat cooking the bushings from what we could tell.

Put some grease on the faces of the cams, spray painted, and then wiped the grease off. Worked pretty good as a mask.

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You can see how much these brackets thicken up the mounting flanges

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A few fun interior repairs, starting with the cig lighter plug:

The plastic pieces retaining the metal cigarette lighter had cracked and made things a little loosey-goosey

Got these parts

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Extracted the metal piece from the trim panel. Here's the metal piece oriented with the new white plastic piece

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Put the white plastic piece with bulb & plug in first along with the black metal shield that faces the front

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Inner metal plug pops through

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Here's how it looks from the front now

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Black plastic piece goes on next. It has a metal shield inside to help protect from heat when the lighter activates

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All done! No more wobbly 12V cig plug. Happy 4th ya'll :usa:
 
Here's another little fun fix!

The rear hatch lock mechanism got sluggish in the heat. When parked in full sun I'd notice the hatch would fail to lock or unlock. Fortunately, almost 3 years ago I did a repair video with Timmy and [MENTION=116877]fourfive[/MENTION] for this very problem! Sure was handy to go back and watch to remember how to do it. I was even more lucky to have [MENTION=116877]fourfive[/MENTION] himself supervise and assist the repair.

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Put a little fresh silicone grease/paste on the sliding mechanisms, replaced motor, glued the motor housing back together, riveted it back onto the hatch and it's working good as new!
 
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JZiggy said:
The rear hatch lock mechanism got sluggish in the heat. When parked in full sun I'd notice the hatch would fail to lock or unlock. Fortunately, almost 3 years ago I did a repair video with Timmy and [MENTION=116877]fourfive[/MENTION] for this very problem! Sure was handy to go back and watch to remember how to do it. I was even more lucky to have [MENTION=116877]fourfive[/MENTION] himself supervise and assist the repair.
Click to expand...

We did this November 2022 on my rear hatch & my door lock actuators summer 2019. Several suffocating Georgia summers later all my locks have been good. For reference, I replaced my door lock actuators with new Toyota, from Toyota, actuators and for my rear hatch, the actuator motor (not the entire actuator assembly) was replaced with an ebay motor.
 
Fixed the pesky dead bulb in rear window switch!

This guy under the clock is supposed to light up when the headlights are on

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The bulb is here just to the right of the big G

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Part number 90100-01042. I have seen some conflicting information on forums about this part number but for sure this is it. It's a long boi with a little green cap

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Now it do what it's s'posed to do

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The tan cover on the rear 12V outlet popped off -- the section of the housing where pin hinge connects snapped. Toyota only sells a black replacement, so I swapped the tan cover onto the new black housing

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Push the roll pin out with a little steel rod

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Put the cover on and push the pin back through

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Transfer case rear output seal replacement!

Didn't even have to use Timmy's video since he was visiting and was willing to help me with the job :)

Slow seep noted from the rear output of the tcase.

Companion flange pulled

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Definitely has a wear groove

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Swap out that little inner seal

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Old seal and new seal look different.

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Timmy's video uses the original, I ended up buying the "SUBS" part number

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Looks like the new seal might actually be good as it should put the sealing surface deeper, away from the groove.

Sharpie test confirms it does

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Put a tiny bit of Hondabond on the OD the seal in case the housing got scratched during old seal extraction

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A careful look at the side by side shows how the sealing area is a little different. Drove a couple hunded miles and no leaks so far!

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OEM 96-98 Fog Light kit!! :whoo:

Scored this kit on eBay. I had been trolling for this for a while. I paid too much for it, but YOLO

Unboxing

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And the light housing out of the black housing to see the H3 bulb back

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Fog lights continued

The instructions say to remove the bumper and take the plastic valance off to trim it. The measurements were a little wonky so I overtrimmed on one side. Fortunately RockAuto sells the plastic for like $40 so I just got a fresh new one and used what I learned to do it right the second time.

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The brackets get sandwiched between the metal bumper and the plastic valance. The lights also have a little stabilizing clip that connects onto the free end of the plastic bit that's trimmed to length

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Rather than using a vampire tap I just used a fuse tap on the ACC fuse in the cab so if the key is on then the lights will work, which is fancy enough wiring for my liking.

OEM Hella 55W H3 bulbs

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I opted for some yellow LEDs that throw more light, are a more fog light correct color, and pull a lot less juice. Aimed them per the instructions to hit the ground about 25' in front of the vehicle

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I've always liked how these old OEM rectangular lights look. Very happy to be rocking a bit of history on the truck now.

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Make sure the coil isn't powered all the time... There was an issue with some of those '96-'98 kits that were wired wrong.

Otherwise, look at that date! Longo must have been cleaning out a warehouse... They are just down the road from me.

-Charlie
 
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