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Old 12-28-2018, 11:42 AM #28021
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Originally Posted by zacattack20 View Post
The tall one in the picture is the dead pedal. You can’t see the gas pedal in the picture.
Haha you got an engine start switch!

Did you wire it to actually start or is it just a spoof? Also what happen with the key lock? Did you removed to install the switch or...you twist the start button? What?
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Old 12-28-2018, 04:45 PM #28022
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FX-R 3" HID Projector Install

the start of something new....Courtesy of @BrianSD_42

just testing the lights here, so alignment inst even factor.

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Old 12-28-2018, 09:15 PM #28023
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Well got the new motor installed , timing and water pump , injectors, spark plugs ,wires ,and fun clutched all changed at 328,270
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Old 12-28-2018, 09:18 PM #28024
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Quickly approaching 200K miles so got the water pump and timing belt done. Here is to another 100K!
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Old 12-28-2018, 11:16 PM #28025
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Replaced the hatch struts with strongarms. I love it. Cant even remember the last time the hatch went all the way up and stayed. Wished I had done it sooner.
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Old 12-29-2018, 02:42 AM #28026
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pavelvoivoda View Post
Haha you got an engine start switch!

Did you wire it to actually start or is it just a spoof? Also what happen with the key lock? Did you removed to install the switch or...you twist the start button? What?
It actually works. It uses rfid technology so when the tag is in range it sends power to the button. The key cylinder was removed, which is quite easy to remove and reinstall if needed down the line.
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Old 12-29-2018, 11:10 AM #28027
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Changing the headlight assemblies. I planned to just try fixing the existing OEM headlight adjusters since they're rusted to shit (that ice melt brine the DOT spreads on the road gets everywhere), no good.

I've test fitted one aftermarket headlight so far and it definitely doesn't have the fit and finish of OEMs. Also debating on taking them apart and do a projector retrofit while I'm at it, since I already have all the parts.

UPDATE: driver side headlight fits like crap because of the bracket, can actually reuse the OEM bracket on that side. Also went to test some bulbs on the aftermarket headlights to see what the beam pattern looks like (crap BTW), and the small mounting tab where the bulb retaining clip goes on to freaking broke!

Last edited by Ed_C; 12-29-2018 at 01:37 PM.
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Old 12-29-2018, 06:09 PM #28028
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Did my TBU today using Napa eclipse calipers, Centric rotors, Centric posi quiet ceramic pads, and Stoptech stainless brake flex lines. It's definitely an improvement over stock and well worth it.
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Old 12-29-2018, 06:48 PM #28029
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Double post
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Old 12-29-2018, 07:17 PM #28030
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Drove it while it was pulling to the right. Got out and the brake pads were smoking. Looks like a 13wl rebuild is in my future in the New Year.
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Old 12-29-2018, 07:36 PM #28031
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Since last night I've done the cs144 upgrade (what a breeze!), replaced master and slave clutch cylinders, and both CV's.
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Old 12-29-2018, 08:45 PM #28032
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Quote:
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Drove it while it was pulling to the right. Got out and the brake pads were smoking. Looks like a 13wl rebuild is in my future in the New Year.
Honestly a very easy and fun rebuild. Any project you can take inside and tackle on a rainy day without making massive mess is a win for me. I got rebuild kit and a couple of spare pistions at the local dealership and was back up in a day
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Old 12-29-2018, 09:15 PM #28033
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Honestly a very easy and fun rebuild. Any project you can take inside and tackle on a rainy day without making massive mess is a win for me. I got rebuild kit and a couple of spare pistions at the local dealership and was back up in a day
You have a part # by chance? I have used non OEM seals on other calipers and paid the price for it.

Found it. Part#04479-60081.

Last edited by LittleCaesar; 12-30-2018 at 12:03 PM.
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Old 12-29-2018, 10:35 PM #28034
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Went on a junkyard date with my husband. We got filthy and it was fun. I only needed a few piddly bits, he needed a front 4.30 diff.

Getting one of these out is a messy gross job-


getting that 12mm hex nut (yellow arrow) from the underside of the crossmember not so bad.

Getting the bolt (pink arrow) upwards out of the crossmember in those tight quarters without a tranny jack in a sea of gravel and oil and broken bits, not so not bad.

It can come out, it will come out. You just have to puzzle more stubbornly than it wants to stay. Think up but not too up, and sort of twist, and down, and towards driver, away from the oil pan lump and flange-grabbing trans.
And patience. Lots of that.
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I know this is a weird ass question but do you shave your legs or something?
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Old 12-30-2018, 01:14 AM #28035
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Nearly done with the bumper. Welded all the hoops in and painted it thoroughly. Tomorrow is working and light day. I should have a fully functioning truck again just in time for the worm week to begin
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