Back from deployment and truck wont move an inch!

Jon

Jon

New member
So I got back from Iraq last night, battery was deader than hell, went to go for a drive after I jumped it and it won't move in any gear in H or 4LO. Fluid level is still fine and isn't burnt or anything. I get the short idle surge from a 700 idle to 800rmp like normal when shifting from park and neutral but it doesn't move an inch.

I'm gonna run through all the fuses to rule out the simple stuff first. Are there any sensors that can be the culprit?

I had the pink milkshake in the spring but never slipped to the point where it would have damages the clutches.

Need it fixed ASAP! Thanks, looking to do a 5spd swap soon just not yet.
 
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I can move the truck by hand, and all the fuses are good. She's been sittin for 4months. After restarting the truck a few times it just popped into gear like normal but seemed like it was slipping a little. Just went reverse and forward in the driveway a few times, even got it to break traction one time when I hammered on it. Then back in the garage, reverse and nothin.

I'm thinking clogged filter. But are there any sensors involved? Mechanical lever is actuating like a champ.
 
huh, not sure i can help, but ive had a similar issue start coming up in mine. it wont roll on its own when you put it in gear, itll go once you hit the gas, but its like something else is stopping it. its been colder than usual lately too. not sure if its a rear brake grabbing or the tranny slipping or having too thivk of fluid or something. but its a similar sort of thing. any info may well help us both! :thumb3:
 
Jon
Your issue sure sounds like an auto trans issue. I hate to say, your milkshake (the water) may have caused the clutches to delaminate.

MF
Yours sounds like a brake issue. I would jack up one wheel at a time and, withe the p brake off, try to spin each wheel by hand. I would do this now since you have the issue. It should be easy to diagnose.
 
Gerdo said:
Jon
Your issue sure sounds like an auto trans issue. I hate to say, your milkshake (the water) may have caused the clutches to delaminate.

MF
Yours sounds like a brake issue. I would jack up one wheel at a time and, withe the p brake off, try to spin each wheel by hand. I would do this now since you have the issue. It should be easy to diagnose.
Click to expand...

Agreed man.

Fluid is draining right now. Even after four flushes it's still thin and light in color. Nowhere near as bad as the first drain but not good. On the bright side, it's not burnt and there's no clutch residue ....yet. Going to Advanced right now to get new filter, fluid and some Lucas. cross those fingers!
 
Going for the 5spd swap so look for that thread soon. Located almost everything I need for $400, gotta love craigslist! Trans, t-case, cross member, front ds, flywheel, ECU, pedal, master cyl out of a 98 Tacoma that is getting a 350 swap. Motor has valve issues or I'd take it to! It's a 5hr drive away so the guy is throwing in a few spare parts for the old 3.4, alternator, starter, coil packs. The ECU is still in the box from the dealer, thought that was the motor issue but ended up being the valves.

Things I need:
Marlin Crawler clutch $260
Marlin Crawler Slave Cyl $35
The hard line from master to slave cyl (where can I find that?)
Rear drive shaft

I might run on FWD until I do the SAS unless for some crazy reason my rear DS fits. Gonna need long travel shafts for the extra travel.

The new gearing is gonna be pretty sweet, 4LO is gonna be ridiculous.
A340F
2.804:1
1.531:1
1:1
0.705:1

R150F
3.830:1
2.062:1
1.436:1
1:1
0.838:1
Is there a difference in the transfer case gearing?
 
Jon said:
Going for the 5spd swap so look for that thread soon. Located almost everything I need for $400, gotta love craigslist! Trans, t-case, cross member, front ds, flywheel, ECU, pedal, master cyl out of a 98 Tacoma that is getting a 350 swap. Motor has valve issues or I'd take it to! It's a 5hr drive away so the guy is throwing in a few spare parts for the old 3.4, alternator, starter, coil packs. The ECU is still in the box from the dealer, thought that was the motor issue but ended up being the valves.

Things I need:
Marlin Crawler clutch $260
Marlin Crawler Slave Cyl $35
The hard line from master to slave cyl (where can I find that?)
Rear drive shaft

I might run on FWD until I do the SAS unless for some crazy reason my rear DS fits. Gonna need long travel shafts for the extra travel.

The new gearing is gonna be pretty sweet, 4LO is gonna be ridiculous.
A340F
2.804:1
1.531:1
1:1
0.705:1

R150F
3.830:1
2.062:1
1.436:1
1:1
0.838:1
Is there a difference in the transfer case gearing?
Click to expand...

AWESOME. 5-speed swaps are very worth it.

BTW, I substituted my hard line for the clutch. The one on my donor truck was rusted to ****. I used an old brake line from a 2nd gen rear axle and bent it to match the stock one.

I'm sure that I've already used the parts you need for this swap off my donor truck, but let me know if there's any parts I can help you with.
 
Welcome back Jon!!!! bummer about the tranny, but it seems like its just been stored to too long new fluid and filter should fix that. also there is a sensor that stops the tranny from shifting if its too cold so maybe let the engine warm up for a bit then try again. anyway welcome home thanks for serving our country.
 
Jon said:
Going for the 5spd swap so look for that thread soon. Located almost everything I need for $400, gotta love craigslist! Trans, t-case, cross member, front ds, flywheel, ECU, pedal, master cyl out of a 98 Tacoma that is getting a 350 swap. Motor has valve issues or I'd take it to! It's a 5hr drive away so the guy is throwing in a few spare parts for the old 3.4, alternator, starter, coil packs. The ECU is still in the box from the dealer, thought that was the motor issue but ended up being the valves.

Things I need:
Marlin Crawler clutch $260
Marlin Crawler Slave Cyl $35
The hard line from master to slave cyl (where can I find that?)
Click to expand...

There's the hard line from the master cylinder to a mounting tab, and then a rubber hose from there to the slave. This is to accommodate movement between the body, and the drivetrain. I'd say your best bet is the Dealer.


I might run on FWD until I do the SAS unless for some crazy reason my rear DS fits. Gonna need long travel shafts for the extra travel.

The new gearing is gonna be pretty sweet, 4LO is gonna be ridiculous.
A340F
2.804:1
1.531:1
1:1
0.705:1

R150F
3.830:1
2.062:1
1.436:1
1:1
0.838:1
Is there a difference in the transfer case gearing?
Click to expand...


With the manual trans, you won't have the torque multiplication of the torque convertor, so the gearing advantage of the manual trans, is not as dramatic in use, as the numbers make it seem.
 
There should be a noticeable power increase due to the lack of parasitic loss from the auto. Leaving in the morning for Lake City to pick up the parts. Might take a week to get the rest of the odds n ends. I doubt it will go smooth but as always hope for the best prepare for the worst.
 
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