Anyone Done DIY Replacement of Steering Rack?

B

BamaDrewski

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My steering rack on my 2000 T4R Limited has been leaking on the passenger side and I know I have to replace it. I called the stealership and they want $761 just for the rack. Found one online at for less than half that price and a 36 month warranty. The FSM says you have to remove the steering wheel airbag cover and something else to get the new rack in. Has anyone attempted this? If so, how difficult was it on a scale of 1-10 (10 being the hardest). I am pretty skilled and have done everything from timing belt change to ball joints. Just wondering if I would be better off taking it somewhere to have them do it and cover it with a warranty? Any input/photos/comments would be appreciated!!!!
 
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All you need to get the rack off are:

1) High pressure/Lo pressure lines
2) 3 Steering rack mounts (These are on tight)
3) Right and Left tie rods
4) Steering column at the rag joint, which is just 2 12mm head bolts right at the steering rack.

Nothing needs to be done with the column, wheel or anything like that.
 
I just did this. Didn't do anything to the steering wheel except tie it to the front seat so it wouldn't move too far from center.
 
Ive changed mine as well. It took me the better part of a day with a little help from my brother off and on. Granted that was with no previous experience changing a rack, and just basic tools in my dads garage.

Its really not that bad of a job. and well well worth saving the money on labor. Whatever you do, dont get a remanufactured rack.
 
I agree. Had I not busted the in/out lines trying to free the lines from the rack, I would have had this done in a few hours. As it was, the lines were so damaged that I had to buy new OEM ones. Spendy little project, that was. $580 for the rack, $250 for the lines, miscellaneous other stuff...
 
Qyota said:
I agree. Had I not busted the in/out lines trying to free the lines from the rack, I would have had this done in a few hours. As it was, the lines were so damaged that I had to buy new OEM ones. Spendy little project, that was. $580 for the rack, $250 for the lines, miscellaneous other stuff...
Click to expand...

Yikes, thats stupid expensive for those little lines. We build lines just like those for F16's at my shop and its actually really fast and easy. Just goes to show how much manufactures and retailers make on that stuff. I paid 375 for a remanufactured rack, which I'll never do again. The first one they sent me was junk, and the second one is still no where near what a new rack should feel like
 
Yeah, I was going to go custom, but the cost was about the same...and since I didn't have a local supplier, I would have had to order everything online and "pray" that it was the right stuff (TPI, diameter, length, etc.). The OEM rack is nice, and I figured for $200, I'd just do it. Glad I did! But now, my PS pump is showing signs of dying...so I'm not completely done overhauling the steering yet.
 
I recently replaced the rack on my 96 4x4 4Runner, with a reman unit from Advance Auto Parts -- Fenco is the brand on the box. Paid ca. $300 after core refund.

I replaced the pressure lines on the rebuilt rack with the ones from my OEM rack-- the ones on the reman unit appeared to be smaller and not the right part. Otherwise it has functioned flawlessly after about 1000 miles.
 
My rack looks as if it is leaking above the secondary shaft input, under the dust cover? Are there parts for this? It is located on the driver side.
 
Throw some Lucas stop leak in it.
Been running great.

If you do the removal yourself, don't forget an alignment after you reinstall it.
If you've got a lot of undercarriage rust... might be better to have a shop do it. Those lines can be a pig.
 
take a Saturday and a case of beer and go at er and save some cha$h. I replaced mine on my 96 a couple years ago. I went to a local junk yard and picked one up that was in good shape for $100. While I was at it I went and picked up 2 new tie rod ends since I had everything off figured I might as well replace them too. its a fairly easy replacement to do. i found a lot of good information on yotatech that helped me out since i never had replaced one before.
 
Tools required

Bringing back an older thread, I need to remove my rack today! Anything other than basic tools and jack stands? Do I need puller for tre's? thanks!
 
NCrunner0 said:
Bringing back an older thread, I need to remove my rack today! Anything other than basic tools and jack stands? Do I need puller for tre's? thanks!
Click to expand...

I was able to knock my tre's out with a hammer once the nut is removed. And basic tools should take care of it as far as I remember
 
1985taylor1925 said:
Yikes, thats stupid expensive for those little lines. We build lines just like those for F16's at my shop and its actually really fast and easy. Just goes to show how much manufactures and retailers make on that stuff. I paid 375 for a remanufactured rack, which I'll never do again. The first one they sent me was junk, and the second one is still no where near what a new rack should feel like
Click to expand...

We have discussed this a little before because I also have a reman'd rack. I have a question for you though, have you checked your steering shaft joint yet? The one that commonly gets play in it and feels like your rack is bad? My reman'd rack is holding up fine. Sure it might not be as tight as a new OEM unit but.... That being said, I still have a little play somewhere in my front end. I've had my truck on the hoist and eliminated wheel bearings, BJ's, and tie rods (plus those are all new too), and I'm pretty sure my steering shaft joint is bad. It might be a tedious fix, but something I'm going to look into this spring and get it welded up.
 
Quick Question. I put in a new rack and lower ball joints and i took my time trying to match up the old rack with the new rack. I also had to replace the coupling that slides over the splines and bolts to the steering shaft on the top of the rack. I just took a test drive when the truck is going straight it is off by about a 1/4 turn to the right. I strapped the steering wheel in place so it was centered the entire time i was working on it. I was expecting it to be off but i am afraid the coupling is off by too many splines.

I was going to go ahead and alignment in the morning. Do you think that this will be an issue? I hope i do not have to pull the rack again to re position the coupling. Thoughts?
 
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