Advice requested for how to handle a P0133 slow response O2 sensor on a '97 2.7L T4R
Four cylinder Toyota 2.7L 1997 4Runner 2WD with 133K miles triggered an SES today.
Code reader indicates P0133 only.
Googling implicates "Oxygen Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1, Sensor 1)"
A description appears to be:
Quote:
P0133 means the upstream oxygen sensor on bank one is not responding as quickly as it should to changes in oxygen levels in the exhaust. The usual causes of this is an oxygen sensor that is worn out or contaminated.
The original oxygen sensors were never replaced to our knowledge. We have a small oil leak coming either from the oil pan or oil filter bracket mating surfaces to the engine.
We have the factory shop manual and the Chilton manual - but we have never worked on an oxygen sensor so we ask advice before we tackle this job.
Read section 4-9 in the Chilton manual which explained oxygen sensor behavior; they mentioned a "backprobe" for voltage, which we assume is we nick the wire insulation somehow. Any advice on how to "backprobe".
Also we looked on the passenger side for the oxygen sensor and wire. Maybe it's under the shield? Do these pictures show it to you?
not to familiar with 02 placement on the 3rz, but mine is right before the cat. have you checked there for it?
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Four cylinder Toyota 2.7L 1997 4Runner 2WD with 133K miles triggered an SES today.
Code reader indicates P0133 only.
Googling implicates "Oxygen Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1, Sensor 1)"
A description appears to be:
The original oxygen sensors were never replaced to our knowledge. We have a small oil leak coming either from the oil pan or oil filter bracket mating surfaces to the engine.
We have the factory shop manual and the Chilton manual - but we have never worked on an oxygen sensor so we ask advice before we tackle this job.
Read section 4-9 in the Chilton manual which explained oxygen sensor behavior; they mentioned a "backprobe" for voltage, which we assume is we nick the wire insulation somehow. Any advice on how to "backprobe".
Also we looked on the passenger side for the oxygen sensor and wire. Maybe it's under the shield? Do these pictures show it to you?
You should just replace the sensors especially if they are original.
And, do you generally get Denso o2 sensors at the dealer or online?
EDIT:I don't mind replacing both sensors (if they don't cost too much) - but I don't generally throw parts at a problem without learning how to perform a diagnostic test, if feasible. Page 52 of the attached guide says to check the resistance as a test:
If the resistance is not between 11 and 16 ohms at 68 degrees Fahrenheit - it may be a bit higher or lower, depending on the temperature - replace the oxygen sensor.
Looking up what a P0133 means specifically for the 3RZ-FE engine, I find the attached almost-500 page PDF which provides a bit more detail, on page 50, which says:
Quote:
Response time for the heated oxygen sensor’s (closest to the engine) voltage output to change from rich to lean, or from lean to rich, is 1 sec. or more during idling after engine is warmed up (2 trip detection logic)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan.3
not to familiar with 02 placement on the 3rz, but mine is right before the cat. have you checked there for it?
I looked but I must be looking in the wrong location for the oxygen sensor.
This diagram in the attached troubleshooting guide seems to intimate they're under the driver whereas I thought they were in the engine bay.
It looks like the oxygen sensor is very specific to California, to the front (versus the back of the cat), to the manual drive, to the 2.7 liter engine, etc. and, it appears, from googling, that the OEM brand is Denso.
The resistance check is probably meaningless against a P0133. It will probably show good. The resistance check is only for heater integrity; if yours were bad your code would be different (probably P0135). P0133 indicates the sensor itself is degraded and the resistance check has nothing to do with that.
Don't sweat the Cali. thing, that didn't start until 1999.
If you are over 80k on the sensor, just change it. Go to http://www.densoaftermarket.com/catalog/ to get the Denso (OEM) part number, and then check Amazon and Rock Auto for price (Amazon usually wins.)
1997 used only the flange type with M8 (12mm socket needed) nuts. Some later trucks ('01-'02??)used the screw-in type on the rear sensor. Only those need the cutaway. You will may (read will if you see salt) need new nuts: p/n 90179-08059 at dealer or any stainless M8-1.25 nut you can find.
To find the front sensor--what you need for a P0133--get UNDERNEATH the truck and look in front of the cat.
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'99 4Runner SR5 5spd 3.4L V6 4WD(U.S), original '99 Talls in front, OME 906s in back, Hella fogs, Trekmaster shocks in front, Billy in back, no running boards, FIAMM horns, Alpine sound, Michelin LTX M/S2's, owned since new.
'97 HiLux SW4 5spd 4WD(Japan model bought in Brazil assembled in Argentina, very close to a 3.0 4Runner/Surf)
'71 FordWillys Jeep CJ5 (with straight six Ford Maverick 3.0 liter engine--lives in the mountains north of Sao Paulo Brazil) My Backyard Frame Swap
Good to know. Thanks.
The toyota FSM (page SF-40) only says to check the resistance at 68°F between B+ and HT to be from 11 to 16 ohms - but it doesn't provide any other test.
You will may ... need new nuts: p/n 90179-08059 at dealer or any stainless M8-1.25 nut you can find.
Perfect information. I plan on getting new nuts even though this is a California car (i.e., almost no rain, no salt, no mud, no sand, just clean fresh air).
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDurk
get UNDERNEATH the truck and look in front of the cat.
I followed your advice. It was EASY to find once I shut the hood and looked up instead of down from the engine bay!
BTW, I checked the codes today (after almost 100 miles) and the registers are clear. That's odd.
Wow. I tried to disconnect the forward oxygen sensor from under the4runner, and boy oh boy.
It has a diabolical locking mechanism holding the two pieces of plastic together. I could see and feel and press on a black clip 'ear' but there must be a second catch that I haven't found yet.
Anyway, following TheDurk's link for Denso sensors, I found the part numbers to be:
234-4162 3RZFE RWD upstream Denso (crosses over to Carquest 75-1804) $122.oo
234-4206 3RZFE RWD upstream (longer pigtail to fit more models, the guy said) $130.oo
Wow. I tried to disconnect the forward oxygen sensor from under the4runner, and boy oh boy.
It has a diabolical locking mechanism holding the two pieces of plastic together. I could see and feel and press on a black clip 'ear' but there must be a second catch that I haven't found yet.
Anyway, following TheDurk's link for Denso sensors, I found the part numbers to be:
234-4162 3RZFE RWD upstream Denso (crosses over to Carquest 75-1804) $122.oo
234-4206 3RZFE RWD upstream (longer pigtail to fit more models, the guy said) $130.oo
They're $213.02 at the local Toyota dealer.
Your "guy" don't know jack. The 4206 is a "universal" fit---it has just the pigtail. You have to solder it on to your old plug. It should cost less, not more. WTF?
Meanwhile, Amazon has the correct OE style (with plug) 234-4162 for $58. You could get overnight shipping and be less than stinking Carquest.
And yeah, it can be a bear to get those apart. There is only one catch I believe, but it is hard to push and it takes a lot of force to get the two pieces to separate. I think I used a needle nose on the catch and a screwdriver in between the halves.
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'99 4Runner SR5 5spd 3.4L V6 4WD(U.S), original '99 Talls in front, OME 906s in back, Hella fogs, Trekmaster shocks in front, Billy in back, no running boards, FIAMM horns, Alpine sound, Michelin LTX M/S2's, owned since new.
'97 HiLux SW4 5spd 4WD(Japan model bought in Brazil assembled in Argentina, very close to a 3.0 4Runner/Surf)
'71 FordWillys Jeep CJ5 (with straight six Ford Maverick 3.0 liter engine--lives in the mountains north of Sao Paulo Brazil) My Backyard Frame Swap
Your "guy" don't know jack. The 4206 is a "universal" fit---it has just the pigtail. You have to solder it on to your old plug. It should cost less, not more. WTF?
You are totally correct!
The Carquest guy gave me bad info. Forewarned, I asked at Autozone, who said, as you did, the "universal" o2 sensor has to be spliced, and, their universal denso sensor, as you said, cost LESS than the exact fit.
Based on your advice, I am going to order this one if/when the P0133 DTC returns (so far, it hasn't returned - but I would expect it to show up eventually; so I won't be surprised when/if it does).