Suggestion with additional parts on TB maintenance

JWaldz

JWaldz

Moderator
I just recently purchased the complete OEM TB Kit from eBay and was curious if it's wise to go ahead and change out to a KOYO radiator while I'm doing the maintenance? I already have the TRD trans cooler, however it isn't bypassing the current built in cooler only running in line to provide extra cooling. The 4runner does have over 170k on it now but I've never had a single problem with overheating or anything for that matter. My ScanGauge has never produced any harsh numbers on temps. A buddy and I will be doing the overhaul. I just want to be sure that while I have everything torn apart I'm replacing everything I can or anything that, more or less, wouldn't hurt to be replaced. I'm contemplating new hoses as well. Also, is the 82*C thermostat that comes with the kit a generic degree replacement or are there other degree thermostats that might be more suitable for my driving/state's climate and weather conditions?

I know quite a bit of you guys on here have done the maintenance. Was there any other parts I should be aware about other than what's in the kit and fluids?
 
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I would highly suggest replacing the radiator when doing the TB job. A lot of people forget to replace it, and usually around 100,000+ miles, your going to want to replace it.

Also, while you have everything torn apart, your radiator will be out as well, so you'd be re-assembling it anyway, miswell put in a new one.

And yes, get a KOYO radiator. I think those are close, if not what our OEM ones are anyway. (Don't quote me on that.)

Hold on a second and I'll get you the link to the cheapest, OEM style, BEST radiator to buy. One second, the link will be below:

KOYO Radiator
Manufacturer's Part Number: A1998
Source: 96-02 Toyota 4Runner KOYO Radiator A1998 1640075181
Price: $128.95 (Cheapest)
Shipping: $19.90
In stock.

Rad1998koyo1.jpg


As far as the T-Stat,
various brands have their own temperatures, and they range from 76°-82°C (168°-180°F). Your in Arkansas, so you'll be fine. Just remember to mount the T-stat's jiggle valve on the 6 o'clock position when putting it into the water pump.

If you have any more questions, just post 'em!
 
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With all the debate going around about what the actual "OEM" radiator is, a few stories about replacements going bad quickly, etc, I just bit the bullet and went to the dealer and ordered one up. It came with the official toyota stamp on the top, and looks 100% OEM. Peace of mind was worth the extra 100 bucks to me for the part.

I was at the same point - I'm at 170k now, and as far as I knew, it had the original radiator in it as well, and I went inline with my trans cooler too. I didnt like playing the lottery with the milkshake, especially with as many hard hits as the rig takes these days.
 
Well, the only thing I don't like about getting an OEM is the fact that the chance is always there of the S.M. with the built in cooler. Even with an ext. cooler in line there's a risk, just less of a chance. With an ext. cooler used as a bypass to the internal the risk is gone. I rather not deal with the oem's internal cooler and not worry bout having to bypass it. I will however, entertain the fact that it is, more or less, a possible solution and see how much it will cost me at the dealership.
 
i would, just to avoid the pink milkshake issue... its cheap insurance man hell even if it helps you avoid a core leak in the radiator id do it...
 
ARKRWLR said:
Well, the only thing I don't like about getting an OEM is the fact that the chance is always there of the S.M. with the built in cooler. Even with an ext. cooler in line there's a risk, just less of a chance. With an ext. cooler used as a bypass to the internal the risk is gone. I rather not deal with the oem's internal cooler and not worry bout having to bypass it. I will however, entertain the fact that it is, more or less, a possible solution and see how much it will cost me at the dealership.
Click to expand...

Like you said with your setup already, we're just wagering on the extra cooling benefits with the in-line, and hoping that with the new radiator, the chance of a "milkshake" is greatly reduced.

If you do want to bypass completely, you could get an OEM (or aftermarket) manual transmission radiator? Might be cheaper since the transmission cooler isn't in there anymore.
 
Avoid TYC. I have experience with their headlight assemblies and can tell you that their plastic is inferior junk compared to OEM plastic - at least on the headlights.

I have a Koyo.
 
Is the one from go-part a true Koyo? Brian where did yours come from?

Aside from the built in cooler what's the difference between a manny and auto tran radiator? Is it possible to use a radiator for the manual on an auto as long as I use an ext. cooler in line with it?
 
the only way you will find a radiator for a manual, is to pull an old one, to my knowledge no body makes a manual only radiator for our trucks. you can not even get one from toyota if you have a manual runner/tacoma -and they order parts biased on the VIN... the only(to my knowledge) radiator made for our engines is AT compatible. -they do this to ensure that the wrong part is not ordered or mistaken sent.

i looked into this option back when i had to replace my radiator because i thought that maybe the manual radiator had a larger capacity and there for more cooling capacity... well i could not find one, had my father inlaw look for one, searched high and low and i could not find a radiator that did not have the AT ports
 
1. Make sure the thermostat jiggle valve is between 5 and 6 o'clock. OEM for sure.
2. New lower and upper OEM radiator hoses.
3. Check the condition of the hoses than run from the water pump to the oil cooler and back. Part# 15777-62020 and 15778-62030 for both. Should run ya about $30+ for both.
4. If you are going to get a new radiator, spring for a new OEM cap. #16401-72090.
5. Probably most important is a NEW crank pulley bolt. #90119-16006. About $7.

Take some pics and post them. Good luck.
 
For what it's worth I changed my radiator with my timing belt, even went with the koyo. But not even 4k miles it starter a slow leak bottom passenger side. It's really minimal and not that big of a deal besides checking coolant levels every now and then, just sucks buying something new to have it already leaking.
 
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