In my fleet it can be fun to get anything loose as the rust belt Is hard on things.

What I do is after I get everything moving I keep it coated. I used to use anti seize. That works well. However I switched to fluid film and just keep everything coated with it.


You can use just about any oil or penetrating oil from keeping things for oxidizing. Some will last alot longer then others for preventing rust. Mineral oil, transmission oil will work too.


I even check and lube our front pad pins every 5k to 10k as those can also be a nightmare if they seize and expand. Rotate my tires every 5k too.





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Yeah same here! Anytime I try to break a bolt loose I soak it for at least 2-3 days with penetrating oil before even thinking about taking it out. Gotta love the rust belt (not).
You ever use fluid film in the frame rails? I'm thinking I'm gonna do mine before winter hits to help with the rust.
Also how many cans do you think it takes? Sorry with all the questions just looking for input from someone who uses it. Thanks!

I have an 02 sr5 with Rusted out lines. I have to replace the fuel tank[due to a leak....rust] and the fuel lines going into the filler hose look like they will definitely crumble at the touch. There is a 99 limited at my local pull for parts yard that does not have rust issues. I know 01-02 had a different fuel tank but does anyone know if they have different lines? My truck lived in the northeast for a while and im a Florida boy with no rust experience 😂need help

Yes you have to throughly wash out the frame first. Then super soak the inside. Aerosol cans I have no idea as I mostly put a quart or so in each side of the frame rails. The inside it helps. On the outside, sadly it just washes away..

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Do the lines and setup look the same? I know the 96 through 98 lines tank and filler tube are the same. Just not sure if a 99 is like the early years or the late years or 01 and 02.

I would say if the setup looks the same as 01 and 02 then it may work.



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I will have to go back and check as I went before my tank started leaking so I didn’t pay much attention to the lines. This is going to be my best path to try to save some cash on this job so I’m going to go ahead and pull the lines. I’ll update to let others know. Rust sucks. Thank you for the response.

I have a '99 2.7L looking for an easy fix to replace the hard fuel line between the gas tank and the flex hose to the fuel filter on the engine. It looks like a double flare compression fitting on both ends. Browsing this thread it looks like the tube nuts are 14mm x 1.5 threads.

I am looking for an "easy" fix where I can just use a hose with the double flare ends instead of having to bend up some 5/16" or 3/8" tubing.

Can anyone confirm that these ends actually are 14mm x 1.5 double flare? Also are there hose barbs available anywhere with these ends that I can adapt to a hose?

Thanks in advance.

Welp. I have a 1997 T4R SR5 3.4. Just like everyone else, was able to disconnect the rear nut to tank. Front one is 1000% seized. Spent days preparing by spraying free all before i even touched the thing. I tried flare wrench, vise grips and more but to no avail, needless to say i rounded the nut off. Ive seen people have success with cutting it out and replacing it using those fuel line repair kits. I guess my question is what specifically do i need? Im
fine with going rubber, i dont care. I just need it the filter replaced asap, even more so because when i got the rear nut loose the fuel that came out from the filter was very dark brown. This is my first post so my apologies if its in the wrong place or if i did something wrong. Please someone help me. I took a couple pics for reference but i dont see an upload image button anywhere!!

I just bought a new OEM fuel line from filter outlet to fuel rail and replaced it, should be good for another 20 years, easier than a repair section, and safer.

Yeah i definitely agree with you. However, money is sort of an issue. I just need cheap but durable

Your cheapest option would be to get a swedish pipe wrench from harbor freight to undo/retighten the nut and move on. They're a type of "self tightening" wrench that grips harder and harder the more you push on it, we used them at work for all sorts of shit and I've yet to find something they can't undo. Otherwise I'd spend the $50-70 bucks on ebay for a used hard line.

Okay this may be a silly question but how in the hell do i upload pictures with posts?? I see the upload attachment but everytime i click upload it fails. Am i doing something wrong? Im trying to show what i decided to go with for my problem!

You may not have enough posts yet. Upload to a pic hosting site, post a link here.

Ahh, okay thanks! Basically what im doing is chopping off the old rounded rusted fitting off with a line cutter, then I got a brake line with fittings and a 6” piece of nylon/rubber line. “Brake” line with fitting connects to filter, rubber line connects the “brake” line to the remainder of the fuel line with 2 clamps!

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