05-27-2020, 08:32 PM
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#61
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Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Chicago
Posts: 55
Real Name: Brad
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Thanks a ton for the write up. Bought my 4runner in the winter only to find out this spring the ac didn't work. Went with the complete rebuild route outlined here. Finished everything today. Took about 7hrs due to some seized/rusted bolts. Now I'm waiting for a new AC idler pulley since it was since to the bracket and the tensioning bolt snapped off. New belt also on the way.
Thanks again. Very informative.
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1999 Natural White on Metallic Silver Limited with E-locker. Purchased 11/1/19 with 204,490mi
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05-27-2020, 09:06 PM
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#62
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Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Southwest PA
Posts: 623
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I’m working on my AC and figured I’d ask this here since it got bumped
I’m thoroughly confused about how much oil to add, I’m replacing the compressor, dryer, and condenser. I’m not doing anything with the evaporator but I’ve flushed the lines and blown them out with compressed air.
So my question is do I add the full 7 ounces or so of oil, or just what I’m supposed to add for the new dryer and condenser? Would there still be oil remaining in the evaporator?
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05-27-2020, 10:53 PM
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#63
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Elite Member
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Join Date: May 2017
Location: Western PA
Posts: 6,085
Real Name: Jon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chicago3rdgen
Thanks a ton for the write up. Bought my 4runner in the winter only to find out this spring the ac didn't work. Went with the complete rebuild route outlined here. Finished everything today. Took about 7hrs due to some seized/rusted bolts. Now I'm waiting for a new AC idler pulley since it was since to the bracket and the tensioning bolt snapped off. New belt also on the way.
Thanks again. Very informative.
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Those bolts always snap if they are rusty. Took me a week off and on to get one out of my 5 speed. So I been there done that..
Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
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7 3rd gens listed in the build thread (2 are parts mobiles)
Build Thread: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...os-builds.html
Brillo's Bucket Fluid Ex changer: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...ml#post3358086
Sparks Plugs Wire and Coil Information: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...on-5vz-fe.html
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05-27-2020, 11:22 PM
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#65
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Elite Member
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Join Date: May 2017
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Real Name: Jon
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The OP convinced me to just rebuild the one in my 1997 5 speed. Makes total sense that if the condenser is gone that you might as well replace the evaporator too. Changing all the o rings at the pipe connections as well as cleaning the lines out does a better job. As my compressor is toast I have equal pressure on both high and low side. Since I was going to do the compressor, condenser and receiver anyways. I might as well change it all then its permanently fixed again.. Thanks again for the write up.
Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
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7 3rd gens listed in the build thread (2 are parts mobiles)
Build Thread: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...os-builds.html
Brillo's Bucket Fluid Ex changer: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...ml#post3358086
Sparks Plugs Wire and Coil Information: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...on-5vz-fe.html
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05-27-2020, 11:41 PM
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#66
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Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Minnesota
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Real Name: Andy ಠ_ಠ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RandyBobandy
I’m working on my AC and figured I’d ask this here since it got bumped
I’m thoroughly confused about how much oil to add, I’m replacing the compressor, dryer, and condenser. I’m not doing anything with the evaporator but I’ve flushed the lines and blown them out with compressed air.
So my question is do I add the full 7 ounces or so of oil, or just what I’m supposed to add for the new dryer and condenser? Would there still be oil remaining in the evaporator?
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If you blew the entire thing out go with 7oz. I had a local place extract my refrigerant and measure the oil. When I was done doing my work and pulled a vacuum I took it back to them and they refilled it and metered in 7oz of oil total.
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07-05-2020, 11:24 PM
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#67
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Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Northern Utah
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Just started replacing everything today. Though I think I might need to pull the compressor again because after rereading this thread it looks like I need to add more oil to the compressor first. Looks like I need to pour out the oil that's in it and put 7oz back in. I thought it already came with the proper amount. At least I didn't have any major bolts break. Only had one ac line bolt break the went into the condenser so that's not a big deal to replace. It's just a M6x1.0 bolt.
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1999 Limited with rear locker.
Sherpa Matterhorn | Sonoran Steel Diff Drop | SPC UCAs | DuroBumps Front and Rear | OME 890 Springs and Black Tokico Shocks | Eimkeith Reinforcements and PCK | King Coilovers | OCD Sway Bar Links | Opt Offroad Rear Arms | Lil Skips Gas Tank Skid Plate | FGP Rock Sliders | 4x Innovations Rear Plate Bumper with tire carrier
Last edited by toverturf; 07-06-2020 at 01:16 AM.
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07-06-2020, 11:41 PM
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#68
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Got everything replaced today and charged up. Blows nice and cold. That ceramic piece inside the evaporator box was cracked on mine so I have that coming and will just replace it when it gets here. It's called the blower motor resistor. Looks like there's a different part number for the limited trim which is what I have. It's 87138-35090. Here's how all my old parts looked.
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1999 Limited with rear locker.
Sherpa Matterhorn | Sonoran Steel Diff Drop | SPC UCAs | DuroBumps Front and Rear | OME 890 Springs and Black Tokico Shocks | Eimkeith Reinforcements and PCK | King Coilovers | OCD Sway Bar Links | Opt Offroad Rear Arms | Lil Skips Gas Tank Skid Plate | FGP Rock Sliders | 4x Innovations Rear Plate Bumper with tire carrier
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09-06-2020, 08:43 AM
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#69
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Nov 2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BamaDrewski
OK. I decided to replace all of the AC components on my 2000 T4R Limited after the AC died. I got a nice 14 years of service out of the original system.
Here are a few things I would recommend to anyone doing this. First off, make sure you purchase Denso parts. I found most of mine on Amazon and the prices were really inexpensive. (Denso is the OE supplier to Toyota)
Here is what I purchased:
New Condenser
New Evaporator Core
New Compressor
New Expension Valve
New Reciever/Drier
New O-Ring kit from Advance Auto Parts.
AC Pressure Sensor from Autozone (Brand is Santech)
One new hose
The AC compressor was not difficult to get out after I decided to do the following:
1. Removed the skid plates (you will need this to tension the compressor belt and other things)
2. Removed the bolts holding on the power steering pump and move out of the way. (No need to disconnect the lines to the pump – BUT disconnect the little sensor connected to the pump)
3. Removed the air box.
4. Removed the fan shroud and fan (Trust me – this helps!)
Once the space was opened up, I was able to disconnect the sensor from the compressor, and then remove the bolts holding the compressor on to the bracket. TIP: To access the bolts holding the lines to the compressor and the top two bolts that mount the compressor, take two long extensions and access through the rubber flip down “curtain” in the passenger wheel well. This gives you straight shot.
With the air box, power steering pump and fan shroud out of the way, you can ease the compressor up through the top between the passenger fender well and the engine.
For the bottom bolts on the compressor, access them from up top. They will not come all the way out because they are long and will hit the frame. They will unscrew enough to release the compressor from the bracket. TIP When installing the new compressor, MAKE SURE to put in the two bottom bolts before wiggling the compressor into place and then tighten the two bottom bolts once it is in place.
I also took out the evaporator. It’s fairly easy.
1. Disconnect the liquid line and the discharge line under the hood on the passenger firewall. WARNING: The liquid line has a special connector. I found it was easy to remove with a very small jewelers screw driver when pushing down the tabs from the top.
2. Just remove the glove box, the horizontal support for the glove box (4 bolts)
3. Take out the top of the glove box and disconnect the wiring that is attached to the top.
4. Remove the plastic air vent tube running horizontally behind the glove box (Just pops out – no screws)
5. Disconnect the wiring to the cooling unit (box holding the evaporator)
6. Tuck the cooling unit harnesses out of the way.
7. Remove 4 bolts holding the cooling unit onto the body.
8. Pull the unit down a little and pull out. (Be careful here because as you pull the unit out, the evaporator drain and grommet in the firewall will probably fall out and land under the truck)
9. The cooling unit box has three clips on the side (they pop off) and then 3 screws holding it together.
10. Remove the clips and screws.
11. The unit comes apart revealing the evaporator core and expansion valve. (The evaporator box was really nasty and the evaporator was on its last leg. I cleaned the box with a vacuum and then washed it in the dishwasher and it looks like new)
Flushing the lines (liquid line, discharge line, etc.)
I bought a can of AC PRO aerosol AC flush from Advance. It has a tube and pointed rubber tip. I flushed all the lines and blew them out with air. I set them aside to put on when all the parts were in.
Compressor Priming
I purchased the compressor from Amazon. It’s the Deno 10PA version and is an exact match to the original one on the truck. You have to relieve the pressure on the unit when it arrives, take off the shipping plate and pour out the factory oil. It had 100cc’s in it. I replaced it with PAG46 (with dye) from Advance. YOU MUST REUSE THE OLD COMPRESSOR MANIFOLD PLATE. Simply take off the old plate, clean it up, replace the compressor gasket (comes with the compressor) and use the old compressor bolts to attach the old manifold plate to the new compressor.
Everything is back in. From here, take it to a shop and have them vacuum down the system for about an hour. The system only takes about 1.5lbs of R134a and a good shop can make sure it is "metered in" in the right amount and flow. With all new components, there is no need to use that "leak seal" stuff. Hope this has been a helpful write-up. Feel free to contact me with any questions.
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I can not find the torque specs for the OLD COMPRESSOR MANIFOLD PLATE. They were pretty hard to unscrew so I am assuming they have a torque spec. Can anyone help?! Thanks, I'm new to working on my 99 4 runner!
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09-06-2020, 11:31 AM
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#70
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Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Manitoba, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cdubb
I can not find the torque specs for the OLD COMPRESSOR MANIFOLD PLATE. They were pretty hard to unscrew so I am assuming they have a torque spec. Can anyone help?! Thanks, I'm new to working on my 99 4 runner!
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Both suction hose and discharge hose should be 7 ft lbs.
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2000 4runner 4wd Auto V6 - Tru-Cool LPD4454 trans cooler in series
1991 4runner 4wd Auto V6
1990 4runner 4wd Auto V6
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05-16-2021, 06:06 PM
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#71
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Junior Member
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Join Date: May 2021
Location: Manassas
Posts: 4
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How Much Oil Total: (7oz or 10.5 oz)
O.K. I am having some issues after doing the AC system replacement (Compressor, Condenser, evaporator, High pressure switch, receiver/dryer, O-rings, and lines flushed). I see the recommendations for oil capacity in the FSM, and it is not clear if it is 7oz in the compressor plus the .71 oz in the receiver, plus the 1.4 oz in the condenser, and plus the 1.4 oz in the evaporator, making the total about 10.5oz) My question is: How many ounces of Oil are in the system total 7oz or 10.5oz). Thanks this thread has been great.
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05-25-2021, 08:25 PM
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#72
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Imperial County, CA
Posts: 2,355
Real Name: Jeff
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First off, Thanks for all the great information! This has helped immensely. My compressors clutch decided to explode on me a month or so ago, and since it's 100+ degrees every day I figured it was finally time to tackle this project.
I had a shop evacuate the system for me, and I thought that they depressurized the system, but that was not the case. When I took off the pressure lines from the compressor, a lot of air and oil came out very quickly. After I got the compressor out I was only able to drain about 1 oz. I am also going to replace the condenser and drier (preventative, there's nothing wrong with the current one other than age), but I have no idea how much oil to put into the new compressor. Any suggestions?
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97 SR5 4runner: 2" OME Lift, rear E-Locker, 231mm Tundra Brakes, 203K, B&M 70264 Tranny Cooler, Duratracs
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Last edited by JBurt; 05-25-2021 at 08:31 PM.
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05-25-2021, 09:48 PM
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#73
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Birmingham Alabama
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Location: Birmingham Alabama
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i mist have missed it... any oil added?
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05-25-2021, 10:36 PM
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#74
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2012
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Real Name: Jeff
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No. I didn't add any oil yet. Figured I'd ask people smarter than me and be better safe than sorry.
My working theory is that when they evacuated the system, that sucked most of the oil out too, so I'll just add the recommended amounts to the new drier, condenser, and compressor. The only other place oil should really be hiding is in the evaporator, but I figure that should get me pretty close, but I'd still rather ask.
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97 SR5 4runner: 2" OME Lift, rear E-Locker, 231mm Tundra Brakes, 203K, B&M 70264 Tranny Cooler, Duratracs
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05-26-2021, 12:28 AM
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#75
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Join Date: May 2021
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Here are a couple references I used. I determined that the system is 7oz total so I put 120CC into the compressor, which was about the same amount (110CC) that came out of the new one. The old one only had about an ounce. I did not get 7oz out of the system, so not sure where it all went.
I followed each of the amounts in the attached for the Condenser, Evaporator and receiver drier. I used the PAG oil with dye so I could see any leaks. My system is cooling to about 48 degrees, so not getting to the same 30's as others.
Replacing the A/C Compressor on a 5VZFE (Tacoma, Tundra, 4Runner) – ADVENTURETACO
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