10-01-2014, 02:52 PM
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#1
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Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Green Valley Lake, CA
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Motive Power Bleeder - Anyone use one of these?
I decided to try tackling the Tundra brake upgrade while I'm waiting for the AOR bumper to arrive so I bought new calipers, pads, and rotors now it's time to try to install.
I have read numerous "brake bleeding" threads on here and it sure sounds pretty complicated for someone who has never bled brakes before.
I read a thread (link on T4R to another guy's write up) where he used one of these Motive Power Bleeders and eliminated the multiple "pump & release" steps that I am positive will get screwed up if I try doing it with my wife as the pumper and end up sucking a bunch of air into the lines.
I really don't care about the $50 or so it costs for the Power Bleeder if it will make this process any easier - I DON'T want to end up with a truck I can't drive because the brakes are not functioning properly from an errant bleeding job, so anything to help make it more foolproof will help. Thanks!
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2000 Highlander - 3" OME 883F 890R - ARB F&R Lockers - AOR Bumper - Savage Armor - WARN M8000 - RIGID LED Floods - TRD Wheels - TBU - HID - BFG KM2
Last edited by GVL; 10-01-2014 at 05:50 PM.
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10-01-2014, 03:04 PM
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#2
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Virginia
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I have a snap on pressure bleeder, I'm guessing the motive works the same way.
You have someone else pump while you bleed the brakes.
You can also use gravity to bleed them.
The way the snap on one works is, I take the cap off the reservoir and put an adapter on it. Fill the SO tank with brake fluid and pump it til it gets to around 15-20 PSI. Hook it to the adapter on the reservoir and then bleed like you would do normally.
Start at RR, LR, RF and last LF.
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10-01-2014, 03:13 PM
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#3
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Elite Member
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Utard
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Real Name: Kevin
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Really not that complicated. Pump 3x and hold, crack the bleeder and let it spit. Close it and repeat until no more air comes out. Move onto the next caliper.
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10-01-2014, 04:17 PM
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#4
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Yep, works great! Fully bleed brakes in 20 minutes. With one person
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10-01-2014, 04:19 PM
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#5
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It's worth every penny to eliminate the WIFE factor.
Pumping brakes up and then opening up the bleeder just turns a few big air bubbles into millions of tiny bubbles.
The best two person bleed is open up bleeder-depress brake pedal to floor-close bleeder-release brake pedal.
I have the power bleeder and love it.
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10-01-2014, 04:27 PM
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#6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GVL
I decided to try tackling the Tundra brake upgrade while I'm waiting for the AOR bumper to arrive so I bought new calipers, pads, and rotors now it's time to try to install.
I have read numerous "brake bleeding" threads on here and it sure sounds pretty complicated for someone who has never bled brakes before.
I read a thread (link on T4R to another guy's write up) where he used one of these Motive Power Bleeders and eliminated the multiple "pump & release" steps that I am positive will get screwed up if I try doing it with my wife as the pumper and end up sucking a bunch of air into the lines.
I really don't care about the $50 or so it costs for the Power Bleeder if it will make this process any easier - I DON'T want to end up with a truck I can't drive because the brakes are not functioning properly from an errant bleeding job so anything to help make it more foolproof is will help. Thanks!
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Yes it works great. The only gripe I have is making sure you have a good seal so you can maintain at least 15 psi. Once you have it sealed its nice to be able to quickly go to each wheel and turn the bleeder and be done. Make sure you place rags around the master in case you spill.
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10-01-2014, 04:46 PM
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#7
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Speedbleeder
Although I have not tried it I have read good things from others on this site about the speedbleeder products and have them in my list of future upgrades. It’s about $30 for all four bleeders. Check out speedbleeder.com.
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10-01-2014, 05:06 PM
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#8
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Land of Enchantment
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OP, I recently completed the 231mm Tundra Brake Upgrade and couldn't have been happier using Motive's bleeder. As others have mentioned, just follow the instructions provided with the bleeder and ensure you have a good seal BEFORE filling the bleeder with brake fluid. Easy as can be, no pumping required, and saves a TON of stress!
Here's a link to the exact Motive system I ordered: Amazon.com: Motive Products 101 Brake System Power Bleeder: Automotive
Not bad for $63 bucks! Good luck
Last edited by seads505; 10-01-2014 at 05:12 PM.
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10-01-2014, 05:22 PM
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#9
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10-01-2014, 05:40 PM
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#10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yukonrider
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Me, too, from the same thread. Been using it for years. See my Post #11 from 2010. Only $4, but I had most parts lying around.
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Last edited by TheDurk; 10-01-2014 at 08:27 PM.
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10-01-2014, 06:50 PM
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#11
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Huntsville, Al
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I have used the Motive on my 2001. There is/was an issue with models with the ABS. IIRC The chain that goes under the tank will not work since the ABS is there. I used part of the yota tech article to make an adapter with a few plumbing items which make it attach with the hose clamp method
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10-01-2014, 07:33 PM
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#12
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speedbleeders
You can do it solo and nothing pressurzied to fail and make a mess.
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10-01-2014, 08:41 PM
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#13
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I had one, they make flushing out all of the old brake fluid in the system pretty easy. It can sometimes be a little bit of a pain achieving a good seal with the master cylinder reservoir.
For ease of use (if you have an air compressor) I prefer a vacuum power bleeder. Like this: BB9018, Brake Bleeder, Vacuum-type, 1.5L
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10-02-2014, 12:09 AM
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#14
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Excellent replies, thank you all. I'll definitely do some reading up on the various suggestions. I'm sure it's not too tough once it's been done a couple times, but I've had too many delays getting my rig back on the trail so I want to get this right the first time.
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2000 Highlander - 3" OME 883F 890R - ARB F&R Lockers - AOR Bumper - Savage Armor - WARN M8000 - RIGID LED Floods - TRD Wheels - TBU - HID - BFG KM2
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10-02-2014, 05:50 PM
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#15
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These are easy to make. I made one from a very inexpensive pump sprayer from Lowe's. I took off the handle just leaving the hose. I purchased a brake fluid reservoir cap from Toyota. I drilled a hole in the cap and hot glued a brass fitting into it. I then put the other end of the fitting in the tube coming off the sprayer. I zip tied the connection tight around the hose end and the fitting. Now, when I am going to speed bleed my brakes, I add clean fluid to the sprayer, attach the cap (and tube) to the reservoir for the brakes and put a big zip tie around the edge of the cap to hold it in place under pressure. Pump the sprayer a few times to build pressure and then start bleeding the brakes. It is quick, easy and cheap!
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