Motive Power Bleeder - Anyone use one of these?

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No wife complaining about having to help. Priceless.
 
Motive Bleeder

Sorry to dig up an old thread...I want to make sure I am understanding this thread correctly. I have a Motive Pro Bleeder and have used it on a couple different cars with good success and have never bench bled the MC. I will be replacing the MC on my '99 this weekend. Can I assume that there is no need to bench bleed the MC if using the Motive Bleeder and just flush/bleed and fill the the entire system after replacing the MC?
 
Sorry to dig up an old thread...I want to make sure I am understanding this thread correctly. I have a Motive Pro Bleeder and have used it on a couple different cars with good success and have never bench bled the MC. I will be replacing the MC on my '99 this weekend. Can I assume that there is no need to bench bleed the MC if using the Motive Bleeder and just flush/bleed and fill the the entire system after replacing the MC?



I don’t bench bleed with my Motive Pro. I never had a new empty MC though. But had plenty of empty ones from rusted lines or repairs and forgot to keep it topped off.


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Forgot to come back here and post. Indtalled new MC. Didn’t bench bleed. Flushed entire system with the Power Bleeder. All seems well.

On a separate note related to the other question I had regarding what I though was a engine vibration due to a possible vacuum leak is definitely not the case. I now have a bad drivetrain vibration. Really bad at 65MPH and above. Crawled under the truck with a pry bar to check the universals. Couldn’t move any of them, but I still wonder if one or both could be bad at 300K miles. Jacked rear wheels off the ground and ran up 70MPH. Still had the vibration.
 
On a separate note related to the other question I had regarding what I though was a engine vibration due to a possible vacuum leak is definitely not the case. I now have a bad drivetrain vibration. Really bad at 65MPH and above. Crawled under the truck with a pry bar to check the universals. Couldn’t move any of them, but I still wonder if one or both could be bad at 300K miles. Jacked rear wheels off the ground and ran up 70MPH. Still had the vibration.

Could still be u-joints... Had a similar issue and even though I couldn't find any play, replaced the rear and it went away.
 
These are easy to make. I made one from a very inexpensive pump sprayer from Lowe's. I took off the handle just leaving the hose. I purchased a brake fluid reservoir cap from Toyota. I drilled a hole in the cap and hot glued a brass fitting into it. I then put the other end of the fitting in the tube coming off the sprayer. I zip tied the connection tight around the hose end and the fitting. Now, when I am going to speed bleed my brakes, I add clean fluid to the sprayer, attach the cap (and tube) to the reservoir for the brakes and put a big zip tie around the edge of the cap to hold it in place under pressure. Pump the sprayer a few times to build pressure and then start bleeding the brakes. It is quick, easy and cheap!


Here are some long overdue photos of what I made!
 

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Could still be u-joints... Had a similar issue and even though I couldn't find any play, replaced the rear and it went away.

To close out my secondary unrelated question (sorry about that), I pulled the driveshaft this morning. I have to say, I have anever seen a double universal joint at one end of a driveshaft. Is this due to the 4-wheel drive transfer case? Anyway, the fronts were all good. Still nice and tight yet no stiff spots. So they got greased only. The rear joint however, was toast. It had actiully already puked a few needles somehow. Never seen that before either. Replaced...test drove...all is well.
 

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