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Old 02-09-2015, 11:47 PM #1
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Replacing cable for heater control valve

Hi,
I need to replace the cable for my heater control valve on my 2000 4runner. Has anyone done this job before? If so, what is the easiest way to do it?

Thanks

Mike M
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Old 02-10-2015, 01:16 AM #2
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Are you planning to replace the inner cable only?
Take a picture of how the inner cable is attached to the shift lever at the HVAC control panel. remove your old cable (you may have to straighten the cable to pull it out from the engine bay end)
Slide it from the engine bay to the HVAC control. Then bent it to match the old cable.
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Old 12-01-2016, 05:44 PM #3
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What do you have to remove from the dashboard to be able to replace the cable?
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Old 07-18-2023, 07:23 PM #4
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Cable very stiff

Reviving this thread, as I might be replacing that cable on my 2001 T4R.

This is the cable that goes from the HVAC Blend Door Actuator (under the radio/hvac cluster) to the Heater Control Valve (on the firewall in the engine bay).

In debugging poor AC cooling, it seems the blend door and control valve are not repositioning. I'm replacing the actuator. But, this cable is also really stiff to pull/push. So, any advice on removing/reinstalling is appreciated. Thanks!
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Replacing cable for heater control valve-blenddooractuator_1s-jpg  Replacing cable for heater control valve-blenddoorcamcable_1s-jpg  Replacing cable for heater control valve-heatercontrolvalve_1s-jpg 
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Old 07-18-2023, 10:11 PM #5
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I move mine by hand on my 1998. You can assist it with your hand switching from hot to cold. I pulled a 1997 limted dash completely apart. Thst area is kinda rough.

It maybe a little bit of a task to change those 2 rods and straws. I would try to blow graphite into those straws first. May lube it enough work smoothly again.



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Old 07-18-2023, 10:26 PM #6
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what brillo said

I lubricate mine from the interior before every winter to remove its stiffness, but we still have to move the heat/cold lever very slow if the truck is cold, works like a charm once warmed up. To lubricate, I spray on the stiff wire while playing with the hot/cold lever on the dash to make the lubricant propagate into the wire's sheath.

Never tought of assisting it by hand, might do that in the future when it's very cold.

Anyway, your a/c not blowing cold could also be that control valve under your hood that does not seal full well anymore (letting hot coolant even on cold position), or it could be miss-adjusted (you can adjust it by replacing the cable in the small clamp)

If you feel that your hose is hot after the heater control valve, cold position in dashboard, it might not seal well anymore.
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Old 07-18-2023, 10:28 PM #7
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After all these years, I still haven't replaced it. On my lists of things to do.

Good luck

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Old 08-10-2023, 10:21 PM #8
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Just a follow-up.

I initially removed the HCV cable, lubricated it with liquid graphite, and reinstalled. When I lubed it outside the car, it seemed much better. But, when installed, routed in the 180 deg arc, and pinched by the spring clips, it was really stiff and didn't work.

So, I bought a new Toyota brand one (in fact, that's the only place I could find one). Anyway, it slides quite easily. After install, you can move it with light finger force. And... this totally fixed my HVAC issue. Now, the blend doors reposition properly, and the heater control valve is moved properly.
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Old 02-12-2024, 12:35 AM #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WayneM View Post
Reviving this thread, as I might be replacing that cable on my 2001 T4R.

So, any advice on removing/reinstalling is appreciated. Thanks!
Did you end up replacing the cable? I have to do the same, the end snapped where it connects to the HCV.
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Old 02-12-2024, 01:08 PM #10
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Yes, I did replace the HCV cable. It's not that hard, except for one and a half annoying access things.

Half-point: You need to remove the HCV actuator in the left of the passenger footwell. It's held on with 3 phillips sheet metal screws. 2 are easy to access, the rear-left one needs a shorty screw driver, and even then you need to push it into the carpet to get a good shot.

Full-point: The HCV cable is held in place by 3 spring clips (each end, and middle). The one near the HCV actuator is annoyingly difficult to access. Small hands, and/or long curved needle-nose pliers, help.

Note: It helps to tie/tape a string to the cable at the HCV Valve end and pull it into the driver footwell. You'll need the string to pull the new cable back through the firewall grommet into the engine bay.
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Old 02-15-2024, 09:03 AM #11
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[QUOTE=WayneM;3805018]Reviving this thread, as I might be replacing that cable on my 2001 T4R.
[QUOTE]


Does anyone know the part number of the cable? I need to replace mine as well.
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Old 02-15-2024, 09:05 AM #12
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Thanks Wayne. As soon as I get my cable ordered up I will follow your steps. Also, do you have the part number of the cable?
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Old 02-15-2024, 03:11 PM #13
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Yes the HCV Cable is
Toyota part#: 87286-35040

When R&R, you may also need to remove the headlights/DRL relay under the driver side dash for access. (I can't fully remember). If so, you don't need to unscrew anything there. It's held into its bracket on the sides. Jamb a small flat screwdriver between the bracket and the relay just enough to release and slide partly out, then do the same on the other side, then incrementally wiggle it out.
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Old 03-13-2024, 09:21 PM #14
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1999 Bowden cable

The cable is readily found online with a search on "1999 (or, whatever your year) blend door cable 4runner" or something similar. It's about a $25 part. Thank you for this post. I assumed that replacing the cable would be difficult and require taking apart the dash to release clips somewhere in the middle. If it's really an easy replacement, I will be very happy to have hot/cold working again instead of moving the blend door by hand.
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Old 03-14-2024, 03:28 PM #15
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Thanks for the heads up, tought this would be a pita so never tought about replacing the gripping cable and just got used to use the heat dial slowly. Just ordered the part.
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