05-21-2015, 11:51 AM
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#31
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Looks like the NAPA boys don't have the David Puddy know-how. No need to replace the oil pump. Good thing they don't dig pools for a living.
Pull the crank belt pulley you broke. Behind it lies the crank seal.
If this is not a DD, order/buy this part and save yourself some grief to pull out the old seal:
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-58430-Sh...le+seal+puller
Then get a piece of PVC pipe equal to the diameter of the seal, put some grease on the inner lip (rubber) and knock it in. Or take a small hammer and gently hammer it in.
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05-21-2015, 12:06 PM
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#32
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Valves adjusted?
Quote:
Originally Posted by LittleCaesar
If the engine is that far out of sequence, don't be surprised if you hear some different sounds. Checking the valve clearance may be necessary sooner than later, maybe not.
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Is it possible that when it jumped teeth, previous owner took it to mechanic who adjusted all the valves to compensate?
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2000 4Runner Limited V6
1997 4Runner Limited V6
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05-21-2015, 12:16 PM
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#33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azcat90
Is it possible that when it jumped teeth, previous owner took it to mechanic who adjusted all the valves to compensate?
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I don't understand how they can do that to compensate. It's a pretty close and specific range on the valve adjustment.
Doesn't seem like they were too concerned about the mechanical side being as how the TB was never changed.
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2002 T4R SR5 4WD Onyx Black Sport Edition w/Leather. Gone but not forgotten.
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05-21-2015, 12:17 PM
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#34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LittleCaesar
Looks like the NAPA boys don't have the David Puddy know-how. No need to replace the oil pump. Good thing they don't dig pools for a living.
Pull the crank belt pulley you broke. Behind it lies the crank seal.
If this is not a DD, order/buy this part and save yourself some grief to pull out the old seal:
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-58430-Sh...le+seal+puller
Then get a piece of PVC pipe equal to the diameter of the seal, put some grease on the inner lip (rubber) and knock it in. Or take a small hammer and gently hammer it in. |
I need that tool.
When I put it in, I use engine oil on the seal and it slides right in with my fingers. I make it flush with the outer ring.
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2015 T4R TRD Pro in super white, Morimoto 4300K HID kit, Auer Engineering / Toyota LED DRL/Fogs 2-in-1's, TRD drop in air filter, WeatherTech front and back liners.
2002 T4R SR5 4WD Onyx Black Sport Edition w/Leather. Gone but not forgotten.
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05-21-2015, 12:36 PM
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#35
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Location: San Tan Valley, AZ
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couple things, mitsuboshi makes the belts, not mitsubishi. also, the woodruff key will be difficult, if not impossible to remove without taking off the crank gear. and lastly, you can drill a small hole in the seals and insert a small screw into the hole and then pull on the screw to remove the seals easily. took me less than a minute on each seal this way, just be very careful where you drill and like others said, don't scratch the seal surface at all.
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1997 4Runner Limited 4WD w/factory RR Diff Lock (4.30:1), Blue Wire Mod, KYB monomax & 'tall' coils, Falken Wildpeak AT3W 265/75 on 16x8" Raceline 887's(+1" spacing), K&N CAI, Tru-cool 4589 bypass, TB gasket mod, OEM sport hood, Satoshi style grill, steel front skid and more
"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is no path and blaze a trail."
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05-21-2015, 12:47 PM
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#36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlazeRunner
couple things, mitsuboshi makes the belts, not mitsubishi. also, the woodruff key will be difficult, if not impossible to remove without taking off the crank gear. and lastly, you can drill a small hole in the seals and insert a small screw into the hole and then pull on the screw to remove the seals easily. took me less than a minute on each seal this way, just be very careful where you drill and like others said, don't scratch the seal surface at all.
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This has worked for me as well.
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2015 T4R TRD Pro in super white, Morimoto 4300K HID kit, Auer Engineering / Toyota LED DRL/Fogs 2-in-1's, TRD drop in air filter, WeatherTech front and back liners.
2002 T4R SR5 4WD Onyx Black Sport Edition w/Leather. Gone but not forgotten.
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05-21-2015, 02:15 PM
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#37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlazeRunner
...mitsuboshi makes the belts, not mitsubishi...
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You're right! Didn't read it too close.
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05-21-2015, 02:17 PM
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#38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stir_fry_boy
I don't understand how they can do that to compensate. It's a pretty close and specific range on the valve adjustment.
Doesn't seem like they were too concerned about the mechanical side being as how the TB was never changed.
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I was just worried that when I start it would torque the valve train.
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05-21-2015, 06:02 PM
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#39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azcat90
I was just worried that when I start it would torque the valve train.
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I don't know what you mean by that, it should run much better getting it back together, if it was truly out of time.
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2002 T4R SR5 4WD Onyx Black Sport Edition w/Leather. Gone but not forgotten.
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05-21-2015, 07:06 PM
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#40
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Banned
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azcat90
I was just worried that when I start it would torque the valve train.
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Just line all the marks up where they're supposed to be, and make sure you get the lines on the belt lined up with those so you know you're in the right teeth, and it will be fine. There's no way to adjust valve timing, so it was just off.
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05-22-2015, 07:48 PM
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#41
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Crank Timing pully stuck
I spent most of today trying to remove broken crank shaft timing pulley. I bathed it in PB Blaster and attached Craftsman steering wheel/harmonic balancer puller using M6 1.0 bolts I bought. I cranked it as far as I could until I thought the heads might pop off the M6 bolts. It is 7:48 PM here in the East - I'm leaving it overnight. I'm done for today.
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05-23-2015, 10:53 AM
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#42
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Thank you... PB Blaster.
She let go of it.
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05-23-2015, 11:17 AM
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#43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azcat90
You're right! Didn't read it too close.
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I wouldn't worry too much about it. I see it called Mitsubishi all over the internet so much that I thought I got shafted when I bought my kit, thinking it was a cheap knockoff with a similar name.. lol
You really can't use any sort of prying force against those teeth on the crank sprocket. Those things are super brittle, as you discovered, and can break a tooth by being dropped. I had to replace mine for that very reason, but it wasn't rusted to the crank either, and slid off by hand...
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05-24-2015, 07:14 PM
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#44
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Banned
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Quote:
Originally Posted by animator
I see it called Mitsubishi all over the internet so much that I thought I got shafted when I bought my kit, thinking it was a cheap knockoff with a similar name.. lol
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I did the exact same thing when I opened the kit up. 
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05-26-2015, 10:29 AM
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#45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by animator
...slid off by hand...
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no road salt in TX.
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