01-16-2016, 04:00 PM
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#1
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Member
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Alpine, UT
Posts: 31
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Alpine, UT
Posts: 31
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99 4Runner Suspension Question
Lest anyone ask, I did read through the whole 4runner Suspension FAQ here:
3rd Gen 4Runner Lift Information and FAQ's
I still have a couple questions, though.
My vehicle is a 99 SR5 w/4WD and 5-speed manual transmission. I've read in some places that the 99 4runners with 4WD sit 1" taller than anything else in the 3rd gen; per the FAQ, it's just the 99 Highlander that sits taller. Can somebody clarify which is the case?
Which brings me to my second question, and really the core of the issue. My vehicle spends most of its time on pavement, a goodly amount of time on unimproved roads (ie, dirt roads and forest trails), and a very small amount of time in true off-road conditions. When on the road, it spends about 25% of its time laden with 300-500 pounds of stuff in the back (tools, air compressor, portable measuring gear, dogs, etc.). About once a month I need to tow a moderate load (2,000 pounds, give or take). This has resulted in rear sag. I think what I'd like to do, then, is achieve the following:
-- Replace front shocks and springs to bring front up to stock height or stock height + 1-2 inches, with shocks rated for a slightly heavier load and providing a firmer/stiffer ride than factory.
-- Replace rear shocks and springs to bring rear up to stock height or stock height + 1-2 inches, with shocks rated for a moderately heavier load and providing a firmer/stiffer ride than factory.
-- Avoid having to replace or re-route anything else
-- Some rake is fine provided the truck is level when loaded and does not sag when loaded.
Looking at the FAQ, it looks like OME makes the necessary components rated for heavier load (the 883/891 combo)-- but at an additional height of 3", which would require a diff drop, which I'd prefer to avoid doing. That said, it seems as though one could also put in an 881 and 906 set and just put in heavier-rated shocks to achieve what I'm looking to do.
So... thoughts? My experience with suspension components is honestly fairly limited, I'm just looking for something to achieve the objectives I've listed without breaking the bank.
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01-16-2016, 05:17 PM
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#2
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Member
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Join Date: May 2014
Location: Knoville, Tennessee
Posts: 920
Real Name: Justin
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Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Knoville, Tennessee
Posts: 920
Real Name: Justin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryandc
Lest anyone ask, I did read through the whole 4runner Suspension FAQ here:
3rd Gen 4Runner Lift Information and FAQ's
I still have a couple questions, though.
My vehicle is a 99 SR5 w/4WD and 5-speed manual transmission. I've read in some places that the 99 4runners with 4WD sit 1" taller than anything else in the 3rd gen; per the FAQ, it's just the 99 Highlander that sits taller. Can somebody clarify which is the case?
Which brings me to my second question, and really the core of the issue. My vehicle spends most of its time on pavement, a goodly amount of time on unimproved roads (ie, dirt roads and forest trails), and a very small amount of time in true off-road conditions. When on the road, it spends about 25% of its time laden with 300-500 pounds of stuff in the back (tools, air compressor, portable measuring gear, dogs, etc.). About once a month I need to tow a moderate load (2,000 pounds, give or take). This has resulted in rear sag. I think what I'd like to do, then, is achieve the following:
-- Replace front shocks and springs to bring front up to stock height or stock height + 1-2 inches, with shocks rated for a slightly heavier load and providing a firmer/stiffer ride than factory.
-- Replace rear shocks and springs to bring rear up to stock height or stock height + 1-2 inches, with shocks rated for a moderately heavier load and providing a firmer/stiffer ride than factory.
-- Avoid having to replace or re-route anything else
-- Some rake is fine provided the truck is level when loaded and does not sag when loaded.
Looking at the FAQ, it looks like OME makes the necessary components rated for heavier load (the 883/891 combo)-- but at an additional height of 3", which would require a diff drop, which I'd prefer to avoid doing. That said, it seems as though one could also put in an 881 and 906 set and just put in heavier-rated shocks to achieve what I'm looking to do.
So... thoughts? My experience with suspension components is honestly fairly limited, I'm just looking for something to achieve the objectives I've listed without breaking the bank.
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Bilstein 5100 Height Adjustable Front Shock Pair (D558)
This seems to be the most popular setup for most the price is about right 23
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01-16-2016, 07:05 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Tacoma, NE
Posts: 1,256
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Tacoma, NE
Posts: 1,256
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverRidgeRunner1
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How do these compare to the tundra ones wheelers sell? It's hard to search about them because wheelers and toytec seem to use their own part numbers. I have the wheeler's 5100 rears already which I think are tundra ones with a 4runner bushing pre-installed, but not decided on fronts yet. I basically want the same as the OP: lots of dirt roads, gravel and extremely messed up minimum maintenance roads.
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01-16-2016, 07:27 PM
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#4
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Elite Member
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Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Citrus Heights, California
Age: 38
Posts: 7,338
Real Name: Jerod
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Elite Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Citrus Heights, California
Age: 38
Posts: 7,338
Real Name: Jerod
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Sounds like you are looking with rear coils with a high compression rate? Something fairly stiff that can handle heavy loads and towing and won't sag on you?
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01-16-2016, 07:31 PM
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#5
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Member
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Alpine, UT
Posts: 31
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Alpine, UT
Posts: 31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gamefreakgc
Sounds like you are looking with rear coils with a high compression rate? Something fairly stiff that can handle heavy loads and towing and won't sag on you?
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Correct. I'm not looking to add something much beyond stock height (that would likely compromise the ice/snow driving I've got to do in the winter) but need something that can support substantially more load in the rear than the stock setup.
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01-16-2016, 09:19 PM
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#6
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Member
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Join Date: May 2014
Location: Knoville, Tennessee
Posts: 920
Real Name: Justin
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Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Knoville, Tennessee
Posts: 920
Real Name: Justin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by repo
How do these compare to the tundra ones wheelers sell? It's hard to search about them because wheelers and toytec seem to use their own part numbers. I have the wheeler's 5100 rears already which I think are tundra ones with a 4runner bushing pre-installed, but not decided on fronts yet. I basically want the same as the OP: lots of dirt roads, gravel and extremely messed up minimum maintenance roads.
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These would be used for Factory setup the tundra would be with lift if I'm not mistake
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01-17-2016, 01:21 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Tempe, Az
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Tempe, Az
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get the tundra ones, you can use your stock coils and they are adjustable from 0-2.5" of lift with the stock coils. they also have a bit more travel which can be nice for rough roads. for the rear ome coils are good for weight, and use the ome shocks as well.
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'02 Toyota 4Runner SR5
E-Locked | Geared | Mid-Travel | 35s | Armored | 100% Chooched
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01-17-2016, 01:40 AM
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#8
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Member
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Twin Cities
Posts: 646
Real Name: Eric
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
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Real Name: Eric
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I thought there was a thread somewhere with the spring rates for a lot of these coils. I think the OME 906 was the 'stiffest' followed by the 891's. So if you're not looking for a lot of height (roughly stock) the 906's should be great. For the front the 881's are common, but you could also do the TRD Tundra coils (YY/YB coded) with the tundra 5100's on the lowest perch. Should get you close to level and have lots of hauling/load ability.
Also, have you considered airbags? Especially if you're already carrying an air compressor... Just throwing it out there
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2000 Limited | e-locker | 33's | Skids/Sliders | TRD SC | Sold
2007 Limited | V8 | RCI | OME 884/895e | 255/75r17 | JBA's
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01-17-2016, 02:15 AM
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#9
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Winston Salem NC
Posts: 371
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Winston Salem NC
Posts: 371
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Call Wheelers and speak with Dan,
@ YotaDan
. I wanted a similar setup as what you seem to want and he suggested 881's and 891's with Bilstein 5100's but Tacomas up front. I had wheelers assemble them for me, I would suggest using the second perch on the Tacoma 5100's. I couldn't be happier with the ride or the stance
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NEW BUILD** 1996 SR5, IRON MAN foam cell Lift, TransCooler, Calvary Blue
OLD BUILD** 1997 SR5, OME 881/891 with 5100's. New radiator, Hayden trans cooler, trans temp gauge, LBj's, ITRE's, OTRE's, all fluids changed, 265/ 75 BFG's, ISR mod, deckplate mod, Ebay uniball UCA's, "Big 3" mod.
Build thread: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ld-thread.html
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01-17-2016, 02:41 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Santa Monica, CA
Posts: 1,510
Real Name: Keith
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Santa Monica, CA
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Real Name: Keith
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I put 881F/890R in my 97 and it sits with a slight rake unloaded, level loaded.
No diff drop,no special CV boots,no adjustable panhard rod and 20+K miles later still no issues.
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97 4R SR5, 4WD/Elock, 3.4, 5spd. OME881/890 springs/OME shocks, 265/70/16 BFG AT/KO2.
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01-17-2016, 03:15 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Cheyenne, WY
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Real Name: Phil
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Location: Cheyenne, WY
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Op, I can sell you a used set of lc tokicos for whatever rear coils you choose. They are much stiffer than the stock rear tokicos, they have a lot of life left, and I'll sell them for cheap
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267/75/17 Cooper ATs - Level 8ZX wheels matte black - EBC rotors/ pads - 99 coils/ Bilstein 5100s - deckplate - Sotashi/custom emblem - Hella micro DE fogs - Kenwood/Alpine/Infinity system - sound deadened interior - color matched bumpers - LED tails - Safari LTD rack - Husky floor liners - clear corners
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