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Old 11-10-2017, 10:20 AM #16
Soulman Soulman is offline
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Anyone have any input for a low budget FRONT suspension refresh to go with these rear options?
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Old 11-10-2017, 12:58 PM #17
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Again, im doing Moog / KYB fronts as well. For the price and my usage, i think it will work well


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SOLD. 1997 SR5 auto w/ factory E Locker - purchased June 2017, tranny cooler, 60A Blue Sea Fusebox, deck plate mod, rear heat delete, 99+ headlight swap, 99+ console/cup holder, PIAA Fog Lights 55W, LED dome/map/reverse lights, Firestone Air Lift, KYB shocks/struts,MOOG front springs, OME 906 rear springs, 265/75/16 E Duratracs, Tundra Sport Rims, Kenwood KDCX700, pioneer 2 way front speakers, Rear Diff Breather EXT

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Old 06-30-2018, 11:43 AM #18
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How has the Moog/KYB setup held up for you? Thanks.
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Old 06-30-2018, 12:42 PM #19
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Considering that you aren't looking to get this to last forever, moog-talls and whatever shock (KYB/Tokiko/etc.) floats your boat at all four corners seems like just the ticket.

I did OEM-talls and Bilstein 4600 HDs at all four corners. I am happy with it, but if I only was looking to get 2-3 years out of it, all on the road, I'd have gone with a cheaper option (although you can find the billy's are pretty cheap too).
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Old 06-30-2018, 01:57 PM #20
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Our goal is to drive it for a year or two and bank some money from the payments we're making on a current vehicle, then decide whether to invest that money back into this 4r or buy something bigger like a GX470.
If you are only keeping it for 1-2 years then I wouldn't spend more than $500 on front and rear suspension parts. Something cheap from Napa or Bilstein that is a direct factory replacement for 99 (talls) springs and shocks. Definitely no need for a lift. That trucks are very capable at stock height with the running boards removed. And a lift will only lower the value.
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Old 06-30-2018, 02:20 PM #21
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I have no complaints with the KYB/moog setup so far. In my opinion, was an affordable refresh. Does what it needs to do.


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SOLD. 1997 SR5 auto w/ factory E Locker - purchased June 2017, tranny cooler, 60A Blue Sea Fusebox, deck plate mod, rear heat delete, 99+ headlight swap, 99+ console/cup holder, PIAA Fog Lights 55W, LED dome/map/reverse lights, Firestone Air Lift, KYB shocks/struts,MOOG front springs, OME 906 rear springs, 265/75/16 E Duratracs, Tundra Sport Rims, Kenwood KDCX700, pioneer 2 way front speakers, Rear Diff Breather EXT

2012 SR5 - tranny cooler, Bilstein 4600's, OEM Trail wheels, 1.5" wheel spacers, Duratracs
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Old 06-30-2018, 05:00 PM #22
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Kind of piggy backing on this, I'm doing the same thing, but will be doing LBJ's (been there once before.....not cool) at the same time. To really tighten everything back up, what other specific parts should I refresh/replace while I'm at it? Upper control arms, inner/outer TRE's, bushings, etc? Would like to get it all done at once and then get everything aligned. No serious off road, just want everything fresh and tight/level with an inch or two lift at most. I'm rebuilding the truck after a front end collision/insurance total/buyback and will be keeping it and driving it until it's no longer possible so I'd prefer to use at least decent quality parts. Any assistance in building a parts list/plan would be appreciated. Thanks.
Charles

P.S. I'm going to start a separate repair/rebuild/upgrade thread w/pics from start to finish.
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