I did some thermal testing and I was convinced a wrap or heat shield was in order. the Exhaust after about 30 mins of driving was around 300 deg and the floor of the cargo area was 170-180 deg and that is too much IMO. Since a gas tank is going to be sitting pretty close to this pipe I decided better do it.
This kit seemed sexy as hell and has like volcano rocks in it so that is an added bonus. There were no eagles or guns on the package so maybe I would take off 1 star from the review based on that.
after about an hour on the free style grinding jig I got all the glob like welds smoothed out. I really like this setup it directs the dust away from you, keeps you cool and most importantly keeps the mosquitoes at bay as well. triple win.
it does not look like the marketing pictures but it will do, I knew there was a reason I was not a fan of exhaust wraps and this effort confirmed they are a SOB!
filming on this vid did not go so smooth but... maybe this will give people some ideas? disclaimer about my setup at this point in time: I don't have my AC hooked up right now... need new compressor. I don't expect this setup will have any trouble with the AC I just need to fix it... AC is such a pain.
@4Runner4Leon
added a fused contact in the stock fuse box. super easy really.
champion CC1998 aluminum radiator
Derale Performance 16842 Gray/Black High Output Dual Radiator Fan
Deutsch DTP connectors - these are cool but I wish the stupid crimping tool was not so expensive. I would use them more but that part stops me every time. I have seen cheap knock off's but not sure if the frustration is worth the cheap ones?
DTP04-4P-E004 - DTP Series - 4 Pin Receptacle Black
WP-4P - DTP Series - Wedgelock for a 4 Pin Receptacle
0460-204-12141 - Size 12 Solid Pin - 12-14 AWG - Nickel Plated
DTP06-4S-E004 - DTP Series - 4 Socket Plug Black
WP-4S - DTP Series - Wedgelock for a 4 Socket Plug
0462-203-12141 - Size 12 Solid Socket - 12-14 AWG - Nickel Plated
1011-026-0205 - Mounting Clip - Fits 2, 3, 4, 6, 12 Cavity
DT04-2P - DT Series - 2 Pin Receptacle
W2P - DT Series - Wedgelock for a 2 Pin Receptacle
0460-202-16141 - Size 16 Solid Pin - 16-18-20 AWG - Nickel Plated
DT06-2S - DT Series - 2 Socket Plug
W2S - DT Series - Wedgelock for a 2 Socket Plug
0462-201-16141 - Size 16 Solid Socket - 16-18-20 AWG - Nickel Plated
1011-026-0205 - Mounting Clip - Fits 2, 3, 4, 6, 12 Cavity
I'm looking into doing an electric fan conversion and came across this. I skimmed over the rest of your build thread, but didn't see any update regarding your electric fan conversion, but I may have missed it. (If I missed it I'm sorry!)
Are you still using it? Any problems or changes/modifications you've had to make? About how many miles do you have with this setup? Any changes you would make?
I'm looking into doing an electric fan conversion and came across this. I skimmed over the rest of your build thread, but didn't see any update regarding your electric fan conversion, but I may have missed it. (If I missed it I'm sorry!)
Are you still using it? Any problems or changes/modifications you've had to make? About how many miles do you have with this setup? Any changes you would make?
15K miles on the e-fan setup, no problems whatsoever. been really solid and works just like it should. Even offroad or in the dunes it keeps things right in the spec temp range.
Now days having a plasma table I would do my own fan shroud for sure but beyond that I'm happy with the Spal fans and controller. I would also consider using one large fan, but again if your going to buy a premade setup then your going to be limited in that regard.
15K miles on the e-fan setup, no problems whatsoever. been really solid and works just like it should. Even offroad or in the dunes it keeps things right in the spec temp range.
Now days having a plasma table I would do my own fan shroud for sure but beyond that I'm happy with the Spal fans and controller. I would also consider using one large fan, but again if your going to buy a premade setup then your going to be limited in that regard.
Thank you! I don't have the tools or ability to make my own shrouding. Griffin radiators will make anyone a custom fan shroud, but it's ridiculously expensive compared to buying the Derale even if it doesn't cover the entire radiator.
I forgot to ask if you've wired in the ac signal to the controller since initial install? If you did where/how were you getting a signal? I think using a relay on the ac compressor clutch signal wire would work.
Thank you! I don't have the tools or ability to make my own shrouding. Griffin radiators will make anyone a custom fan shroud, but it's ridiculously expensive compared to buying the Derale even if it doesn't cover the entire radiator.
I forgot to ask if you've wired in the ac signal to the controller since initial install? If you did where/how were you getting a signal? I think using a relay on the ac compressor clutch signal wire would work.
the Derale is as close as I was able to find coverage wise.
and no I never did wire in AC and that has not been an issue. I was planning on doing it but then I just forgot about it and it really did not seem to need it so... why solve a problem that does not exist. I know it would probably be more efficient with the AC wired in. I also live in MN so AC is not a huge deal for us here, still use it but it's not like living in death valley where it's 114 F right now.
I spent like 3 hours cutting off the rear lower arm brackets... man that was a lot of fun the 80+ heat. But the good news the front 80 series brackets fit perfect.
I think it's going to work, it all lines up perfect really and I can cycle it thru and nothing hits. I need to work getting everything clamped into place tomorrow and run it up and down just to make sure.
Unfortunately, I discovered my fuel tanks mounts do hit... so this would have been a problem anyways without the arms. I'm pretty sure I have an easy fix but I will have to fab up some stuff... nothing is ever as easy as it should be.
for the same amount of lift, will moving the shocks outboard require longer shocks? did you move or modify the lower shock mounts?
Thank you.
I did not mod the lower shock mounts. My goal was to reuse my icon shocks. It did not change the travel. The upper mounts I fabricated we’re expressly designed to be a direct replacement for the stock location, except on the outside of the frame.
I did not mod the lower shock mounts. My goal was to reuse my icon shocks. It did not change the travel. The upper mounts I fabricated we’re expressly designed to be a direct replacement for the stock location, except on the outside of the frame.
Will you be spacing the wheels outboard?
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. 1999 Toyota 4Runner SR5 Sport 4WD, V6 5-Speed e-Locker-> 4WD 4runner Journal Thread 1999 Toyota 4Runner SR5 Un-Sported 2WD, V6 Auto ->2WD 4runner Journal Thread 1959 Chevy 3100 1/2 Ton Pickup EVERYTHING done 'cept paint and body
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you will need a full 2" if you want to outboard stock shocks. I think a lot of people never ever come close to fully exercising their suspension. But as you and I both know those speed bumps at the mall can really max stuff out.
you will need a full 2" if you want to outboard stock shocks. I think a lot of people never ever come close to fully exercising their suspension. But as you and I both know those speed bumps at the mall can really max stuff out.
You must not have driven PA back roads with stock suspension. If the potholes don't get you the road dips will... However with old man emus on with a 2 inch lift. You just bounce down the road without bottoming out at all.
is the 2" the clear distance between the outer side of the shock and the inner side of the tire? or is that the spacer thickness needed? is that measured when the vehicle is on a level surface?
you will need a full 2" if you want to outboard stock shocks. I think a lot of people never ever come close to fully exercising their suspension. But as you and I both know those speed bumps at the mall can really max stuff out.
is the 2" the clear distance between the outer side of the shock and the inner side of the tire? or is that the spacer thickness needed? is that measured when the vehicle is on a level surface?
couple of things
The Wheels I run are 17" steel spares from a 5th gen, not sure if the backset is the same? sorry. I think they are the same as 3rd gen stock config.
the spacer is moving my wheel mounting surface out by 2"
I needed 2" to fully exercise the range of motion in the rear suspension.
Linear Mode
