I think the box part is probably ok. I'd be nervous driving around on that control arm bracket, though. If it is like mine, The floor of the box rusts away where you can't see until it pulls right off of there. That's what happened to me. My frame box was in better shape than yours. I don't think those welds of yours are going to hold that thing on for long, especially if you stress it off-road.

It's not fun when that sucker lets go. Ask me how I know. If it does, don't brake, don't accelerate and steer as little as you can. Just let it coast to a stop with light braking.

Why not cut the bracket off and redo the floor section, then weld the bracket back on? Easier than a frame swap.

If you're asking me...I would have had to do it on both sides and I don't weld. But I do wrench and I'm retired so I have the time. The frame was compromised in other places, too. Now, after the swap, I have a completely clean and POR-15d frame that will outlast the truck, and the cash cost, not counting my labor, was less than I was quoted for the welding patches needed on the crap frame.

Plus I was able to restore other stuff like the underbody, the fuel tank and skid, etc.

It was for OP. A frame swap is the best bet but I've seen worse than OP's frame.

I could re-weld it when it warms up and then go the POR 15 route, the only issue with that is that first i would want a better welder than my 110v Hobart, which would be a couple hundred at least. Plus the cost of a gallon of POR 15 (i think runs like $150 or so) and now I'm into it about $800 ish depending on how much I spend for the welder. Don't get me wrong, I'm all for excuses to buy new tools and work on new skills...

I've gotten an offer for a pristine frame for $500, but its 14 hours away... plus the time required for the swap..

So it sounds like here is what i'm down to:
1. Buy frame and DIY swap it (long project time, low-med cost, excellent results)
2. Weld some more on the frame (low project time, low-med cost, mediocore results at best)
3. Buy another 3rd gen (no project time, high cost, mystery results)
4. Get out of 3rd Gen 4runners and into something else, pickup (like a chevy), tacoma (higher cost), or beater daily driver like a civic or corolla (100 mile daily commute).

Which option would any of you realistically go for?

I'm just looking for other opinions at this point to try and separate as much bias and pride I have wrapped into this thing.

thanks again for all of your replies

I’d buy a cheap beater and do a frame swap. Then you can actually take your time and not have to worry about vehicle downtime.

Buy a rolled 4runner on copart from somewhere that's not prone to rust and swap everything over. Part out the rest and it'll be free minus all your time.

Damn! On both trucks. I'm not driving mine because of this little hole.
When I was wire wheeling it for Eastwoods rust converter, it pushed through. Frame is solid everywhere else including the same area by the gas tank.

Attached Images

   

Not bad. Now that you have another daily I wouldn't even be in a rush. A tiny hole like that isn't anything dangerous to drive on yet though. Start fluid filming those body crevices though, I see plenty of rust beginning on those areas. And definitely not as easy to repair nicely compared to a frame.

OP,

Yeah, your frame is pretty toasted. There isn't much "good" frame left so at this point if you want to keep the truck, I would swap a better frame into it. I am surprised it passed inspection honestly....

I like the idea of buying a decent beater for your long commute while you do the frame swap.

I remember when I first got my 97 and posted pictures on here of the frame. The amount of hysteria over the handful of surface rust areas was unreal. When I see pictures of frame rot like yours, it makes me sleep better at night because mine is no where near that bad. In fact, I don't have a single hole or weak spot anywhere, it just had a bunch of surface rust which is now gone. And yes, I inspected the inside of the frame and it's solid.

One last thing, I prefer LPS 3 for a rust preventative FWIW.

The frame is only 1/8" steel. A 110v MIG should handle that easily.

Yea, I could still drive it but it got so cold out I couldn't finish the brake shoes or put the rear bumper back on. Plus after all of the sanding & painting I did I dont want to take it out in the salt anymore. At least until I'm done with the rust repairs & spay a protectant over the entire undercarriage.
I found a set of used for 1 season Blizzaks on CL for $200 & my FWD car is doing great in the snow. Today I'm getting plates for the new 4R & picking it up from CT on Sunday.

I hear you. The snow is fun to play in when it's coming down but the salty mess afterwards is just awful. At least they aren't using brine like back in 13-14.

Yeah i'm seeing some decent beaters I like on craigslist so i'll probably get the tax return and then go that route. It was definetely a backwoods shop and the guy was doing me a solid by passing it to give me time for the rest of the year.

I'll check into some LPS 3 for future use.

Thats kind of what i was thinking so poor quality of the welds probably had more to do with the winds on the sheilding gas and the 20 degree temps.