02-12-2019, 02:57 PM
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#1
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What PM can be done while the transmission is removed?
Rear main seal, flex plate, anything else?
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02-12-2019, 03:04 PM
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#2
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Great time to change steering parts or put a fresh coat of paint on the frame.
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02-12-2019, 04:57 PM
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#3
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Flex plates don't go bad that much, but I guess you can if you want.
Rear engine mount (transmission mount) is easy to do with it out and will help the shifts be a bit smoother with less vibration. Changing all your differential fluids or addressing any leaks will be much easier as well.
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02-12-2019, 05:05 PM
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#4
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Call me crazy but since you've removed the transmission I'd pull the timing belt, water pump, oil pump and oil pan. I get that it is quite a bit of extra work but the configuration of how the oil pump, pan and rear main all bolt together is less than ideal unless the paper/felt gaskets don't actually do anything.
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02-12-2019, 09:24 PM
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#5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by APhelps
Call me crazy but since you've removed the transmission I'd pull the timing belt, water pump, oil pump and oil pan. I get that it is quite a bit of extra work but the configuration of how the oil pump, pan and rear main all bolt together is less than ideal unless the paper/felt gaskets don't actually do anything.
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huh? Not trying to be mean but those two jobs have nothing to do with each other. Pulling the transmission will not make the timing belt any easier.
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02-12-2019, 10:47 PM
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#6
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If it has not been done...STARTER CONTACTS!!!!!!!!!!
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'99 4Runner SR5 5spd 3.4L V6 4WD(U.S), original '99 Talls in front, OME 906s in back, Hella fogs, Trekmaster shocks in front, Billy in back, no running boards, FIAMM horns, Alpine sound, Michelin LTX M/S2's, owned since new.
'97 HiLux SW4 5spd 4WD(Japan model bought in Brazil assembled in Argentina, very close to a 3.0 4Runner/Surf)
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02-12-2019, 10:52 PM
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#7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDurk
If it has not been done...STARTER CONTACTS!!!!!!!!!!
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thats a good one. The starter is a freaking pain to remove.
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02-12-2019, 11:38 PM
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#8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by calimobber
huh? Not trying to be mean but those two jobs have nothing to do with each other. Pulling the transmission will not make the timing belt any easier.
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I could be mistaken but there is a gasket under the rear main seal cover. Perhaps its just a dust cover and isn't necessary to be pulled off then. If that is the case you are correct.
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02-13-2019, 01:20 AM
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#9
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Really?
Quote:
Originally Posted by calimobber
thats a good one. The starter is a freaking pain to remove.
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What caused you to take so long? I did mine in my drive way in 35 min. that is in and out of the vehicle. Did you remove the dipstick tube?
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02-13-2019, 02:22 AM
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#10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vipergrhd
What caused you to take so long? I did mine in my drive way in 35 min. that is in and out of the vehicle. Did you remove the dipstick tube?
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Its been maybe 6 years since i did mine but I remember it was just a tight fit and took a lot of manipulating to get the alternator out.
Annoying thing it I replaced it because it was making a crazy noise when I started the car. Turned out it was just the dust seal on the shaft was dislodged and was being pushed out and hit the spinning gears when starting. At the time I just replaced with auto zone special since I already had it out. I should have just fixed it and reinstalled the oem. Oh well auto zone special still working fine today.
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02-13-2019, 12:23 PM
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#11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vipergrhd
What caused you to take so long? I did mine in my drive way in 35 min. that is in and out of the vehicle. Did you remove the dipstick tube?
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Well, then you hold the land speed record. Most people with auto trans find it a nightmare. I did mine as PM during a clutch job, so it was a piece of cake.
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'99 4Runner SR5 5spd 3.4L V6 4WD(U.S), original '99 Talls in front, OME 906s in back, Hella fogs, Trekmaster shocks in front, Billy in back, no running boards, FIAMM horns, Alpine sound, Michelin LTX M/S2's, owned since new.
'97 HiLux SW4 5spd 4WD(Japan model bought in Brazil assembled in Argentina, very close to a 3.0 4Runner/Surf)
'71 FordWillys Jeep CJ5 (with straight six Ford Maverick 3.0 liter engine--lives in the mountains north of Sao Paulo Brazil)
My Backyard Frame Swap
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02-13-2019, 12:45 PM
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#12
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I did my starter contacts and it took me about 2 hours to get all done. Taking the tire off and putting on jack stands will take about 5 minutes. You need to properly set the contacts inside the solenoid and with that tight spot, it took more time than doing it with starter out.
OP, make sure to use OEM rear seal. NEVER use aftermarket seals for any part of the truck.
You could also replace the shift lever bushings with OEM parts. What about the transfer case F and R oil seals?
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02-13-2019, 02:09 PM
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#13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vipergrhd
What caused you to take so long? I did mine in my drive way in 35 min. that is in and out of the vehicle. Did you remove the dipstick tube?
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35 minutes???
It took me 35 minutes just to figure out how to get the right amount of swivels and extensions on that top starter bolt.
Granted, now that I know how to do it I could probably get the starter off and out in under an hour but 35 minutes start to finish? Come on.....
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02-13-2019, 02:09 PM
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#14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vipergrhd
What caused you to take so long? I did mine in my drive way in 35 min. that is in and out of the vehicle. Did you remove the dipstick tube?
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There's two different kinds of starters. Most autos have the larger kind which cannot be removed from that tight spot without removing part of the frame.
Manuals and some lucky dudes with autos have the smaller kind that slips right out and can be rebuild very easily. I'm guessing you are one of those lucky few.
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02-13-2019, 02:12 PM
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#15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by APhelps
I could be mistaken but there is a gasket under the rear main seal cover. Perhaps its just a dust cover and isn't necessary to be pulled off then. If that is the case you are correct.
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If I remember correctly when I did my rear main, there is not a gasket just a bead of RTV/FIPG.
I don't think it holds any oil back so it is essentially a dust cover. I believe I just left it alone and bolted it back up.
I did clean up the portion of the oil pan that gets exposed when you pull the rear main seal "cover" off.
Don't forget that two of the oil pan bolts hold that cover on. I pried the hell out of that cover until I realized two of the oil pan bolts hold it in place (in addition to the other botls).
It's probably the reason why I have a small leak in that area now.... 
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