Finished the drivers rear behind gas tank. Replaced the rear line with a nickle copper one. Put the gas tank back in so I can move the 4 runner again....

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I bet that feels good

Yes only one mistake... I put a little plate in the gas tank bracket....Only to find out that gas tank just fits there.. Even a 20 or 18gauage plate is too thick.. So I have to ream the gas tank 3 bolts a little.. Minor but an oppsy. I was glad to get that brake line changed again.. I put an OEM brake line in 2017... It was done again rotten in a few spots so it doesn't pay to use OEM brakes lines in the rust belt..

How I attached was self tappers and zip ties with a screw hole in the end. :-)

Shit box (1997 limited) is getting a the 13WE tundra brake upgrade. I personally prefer this size of caliper because they can use the same brake size not like the 13WL which has the larger back plate but if you look the pad material is just about the same size. I believe this is for more air flow to cool down the pads. The 13WL are longer calipers so you have to trim the dust shield to fit. The 13WE will only have to trim the dust shield is the 15 inch wheels. When 16 inch wheels it should fit without trimming. For me and my needs, the wider rotor is all that is required to keep the rotors from rotor.

Here is a photo of the standard caliper and rotor

I have the passenger side done. :-) I would have had the Driver side completed as well but someone thought it was a good idea to send a 13WM (stock 3rd gen re mfg caliper ) into a 13WE box.. Probably someone on the forum...

Looks good! I was under my 4r doing a good Spring clean, and I noticed that the hard lines for the fuel and brakes were not looking good. You mentioned you replaced a brake line with OEM in 2017 but had to replace it again. What did you go with, and do you have any suggestions wrt fuel lines?
Thanks in advance!

My fuel lines are good... thankfully. I just make them out of nickle copper 3/16 tubing and use stainless steel flare nuts. You can buy the nuts on amazon but this does require a flare tool to make the flare. You can buy nickle copper lines in varies lengths i mostly by 25 ft spools of it. Once I switched to making my own lines, I never have to worry about them going bad again. :-)

You can still purchase the oem lines from a dealer. However, you can see from this that they don't last long in the rust environment


You will need a flare tool to create the flare on the end of the brake line. Toyota brake tube ends need a double flare, also known as an inverted flare. If a single flare is done the brake lines connections will leak. :-(

This is for @poleclimber63 . These are the stainless steel flare nuts

The Stop Shop Metric Brake Line Invert Flare Fittings for 3/16" Tube. 10 x 1 mm (Pack of 10)


The Stop Shop 25 Ft. Roll/Coil of 3/16" (.028" Wall) Copper Nickel Brake Line Tubing

This is the flaring tool I am after....

Mastercool 72485-PRC Silver/Blue Universal Hydraulic Flaring Tool Set (3/8"&1/2" Transmission Cooling Line Die/Adapter Sets Plus Tube Cutter)

This is what I currently have..
Professional Brake Line Flaring Tool- 45 Degree Set - Single, Bubble, and Double Flares

You can use different flaring tools if you wish provided it produces an inverted flare.. I want the Hydraulic one so i can use it under and on the vehicle. My current one has to be used in a vice. :-(


I hope this information helps others as well.. :-)

My friend has the hydraulic one and I borrow it more than I should.


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Yes if one is to buy one you might as well go hydraulic and I don't blame you they work extremely well. :-) It really helps having the ability to work under the vehicle vs on a bench.

Finally got the correct drivers side caliper... Took 2 weeks . I tried twice from rock auto and they kept sending me S13WM castings in S13WE boxes because people are sending the wrong calipers back as cores.. Or the re-mfg company is boxing them wrong. I am suspecting its folks putting the 3rd gen calipers back i as cores and messing up the supply chain. As I got 2 S13WM. What a mess this made. :-(

The driver side S13WE. Unloaded. That was a rough 2 weeks. So much for getting parts ahead of time. And best to verify the parts are correct before starting the project.. ;)




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great info, thank you!!! I wiil surely be doing the lines this Spring/Summer!

Holy crap! Unbelievable it took several tries to get the correct calipers! I think youre right about the core returns, however, I would have thought they'd catch that at the reman facility as they'd have to ensure the correct rebuild kits are used in the reman process!! I've been using Rockauto for years and I have to admit, I've never had to return anything... I did receive the wrong caliper boots once and a wrong caliper pin (not for the 4Runner), but seeing as these parts were < $5 and return shipping from Canada to the US was double the cost of the parts, I didnt bother...

Maybe I should buy a lottery ticket..

Looks great by the way, you won't be disappointed. I did the TBU back in 2015 and have never warped rotors since---- or experienced brake fade while towing...

Glad I could help someone out. :-)