12-09-2019, 10:13 PM
|
#1
|
|
Junior Member
|
|
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 23
|
|
|
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 23
|
Chasing a heater problem
I have a heater core that is getting clogged with rubber material about the size of sand. Thus the heat only blows hot if I back flush the core to clean it out. After this, the heat only blows hot at 2,500 rpm and higher. Then within 50 miles of highway driving, the core is plugged again and cools off.
I have, over the past year, changed the heater core, radiator, thermostat, replaced all heater hoses, and bypassed the rear heater core. The block was flushed. I now understand this may have been a mistake. Running new red coolant.
Any ideas what else could be creating rubber to be created in my cooling system?
__________________
Wichita, KS
3rd Gen, 300k
|
|
 Reply With Quote
|
|
12-10-2019, 01:51 AM
|
#2
|
 |
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Santa Monica, CA
Posts: 1,421
Real Name: Keith
|
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Santa Monica, CA
Posts: 1,421
Real Name: Keith
|
Radiator hoses could be degenerating on the inside? Oil cooler hoses?
__________________
97 4R SR5, 4WD/Elock, 3.4, 5spd. OME881/890 springs/OME shocks, 265/70/16 BFG AT/KO2.
|
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
|
12-10-2019, 03:14 AM
|
#3
|
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: SW Washington
Posts: 595
|
|
|
Member
Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: SW Washington
Posts: 595
|
And nothing you removed was degraded on the inside?
AFAIK
Rubber = oil cooler lines, radiator hoses, heater hoses, IAC hoses, RTV sealant, thermostat seal.
Plastic = radiator, heater controll valves, expansion tank.
The rest is aluminum, stainless, and iron.
I wouldn’t expect a flush to do anything to rubber.
Maybe your oil cooler lines have cooked out due to proximity to the exhaust manifold.
__________________
Owned 82, 83, 87 pickup, 98, 99 SR5 4runner
Currently own a 98 SR5, 5spd, 4x4, e-locker, no sunroof. 2012 LTD with the normal options.
|
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
|
12-10-2019, 12:50 PM
|
#4
|
 |
Member
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Southern California
Posts: 475
|
|
|
Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Southern California
Posts: 475
|
Or a previous owner dumped some stop leak in. I hesitate to use the corrosive flushing agents as I have seen it eat the seal out of a water pump twice, but I would use it if I was about to change all that stuff out. Might be a bunch of stuff clogged in the radiator. Sounds like it's cold there and you need the heater, otherwise I would just run water in the radiator for a couple weeks and keep flushing it until clean, but that might not be an option for you.
|
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
|
12-10-2019, 08:59 PM
|
#5
|
 |
Elite Member
|
|
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Western PA
Posts: 6,055
Real Name: Jon
|
|
|
Elite Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Western PA
Posts: 6,055
Real Name: Jon
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wedgy
Or a previous owner dumped some stop leak in. I hesitate to use the corrosive flushing agents as I have seen it eat the seal out of a water pump twice, but I would use it if I was about to change all that stuff out. Might be a bunch of stuff clogged in the radiator. Sounds like it's cold there and you need the heater, otherwise I would just run water in the radiator for a couple weeks and keep flushing it until clean, but that might not be an option for you.
|
I was thinking that. I was wondering if some stop leak is in the mix on this one. Quite a possibility. 
Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
__________________
7 3rd gens listed in the build thread (2 are parts mobiles)
Build Thread: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...os-builds.html
Brillo's Bucket Fluid Ex changer: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...ml#post3358086
Sparks Plugs Wire and Coil Information: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...on-5vz-fe.html
|
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
|
12-10-2019, 09:20 PM
|
#6
|
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 186
|
|
|
Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 186
|
My vote is also for a stop leak product. Those tend to coagulate and come out as a sandy residue. I had the same issue when replacing my heater core earlier this year (total PITA project) but was able to flush it out with distilled water before refilling with Toyota red.
|
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
|
12-11-2019, 02:05 AM
|
#7
|
 |
Elite Member
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Shangrila
Posts: 5,037
|
|
|
Elite Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Shangrila
Posts: 5,037
|
Check hoses. Flush it with powdered dish soap mixed with distilled. You might need to backflush the system.
|
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
|
12-11-2019, 10:17 PM
|
#8
|
|
Junior Member
|
|
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 23
|
|
|
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 23
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dieselchessy
And nothing you removed was degraded on the inside?
AFAIK
Rubber = oil cooler lines, radiator hoses, heater hoses, IAC hoses, RTV sealant, thermostat seal.
Plastic = radiator, heater controll valves, expansion tank.
The rest is aluminum, stainless, and iron.
I wouldn’t expect a flush to do anything to rubber.
Maybe your oil cooler lines have cooked out due to proximity to the exhaust manifold.
|
Thanks for this. I'll start my hunt.
__________________
Wichita, KS
3rd Gen, 300k
|
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
|
12-11-2019, 10:17 PM
|
#9
|
|
Junior Member
|
|
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 23
|
|
|
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 23
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by pluton
Radiator hoses could be degenerating on the inside? Oil cooler hoses?
|
Replaced the radiator. But not the oil cooler.
__________________
Wichita, KS
3rd Gen, 300k
|
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
|
12-11-2019, 10:19 PM
|
#10
|
|
Junior Member
|
|
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 23
|
|
|
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 23
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wedgy
Or a previous owner dumped some stop leak in. I hesitate to use the corrosive flushing agents as I have seen it eat the seal out of a water pump twice, but I would use it if I was about to change all that stuff out. Might be a bunch of stuff clogged in the radiator. Sounds like it's cold there and you need the heater, otherwise I would just run water in the radiator for a couple weeks and keep flushing it until clean, but that might not be an option for you.
|
I thought the same thing. It's cold now and I need the heat. I was going to do the distilled water / multi flush thing but the garage has a '57 chevy overhaul and a Miata frame/body swap projects going on. I don't want to leave it with just water with temps in the low 20s. I may try this in the spring if I cannot solve it.
Going to replace the water pump next week.
__________________
Wichita, KS
3rd Gen, 300k
|
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
|
12-11-2019, 10:21 PM
|
#11
|
|
Junior Member
|
|
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 23
|
|
|
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 23
|
I've changed out the coolant 4 times over the past 12 months and cannot seem to solve it. I didn't do a full drain of the block. Might try that next.
__________________
Wichita, KS
3rd Gen, 300k
|
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is On
|
|
|
|
Linear Mode
