pavelvoivoda
Member
Just sourced out some parts for the intercooler mod, soon to make my 4Runner turbo diesel intercooled!
A friend of mine and I bought same gen Hilux surf and dismantled it and each of us got some cool stuff. I got the intercooler kit (head cover, intercooler, hood(already painted) and the hardware), the FMU, rear reclining seats, power-folding mirrors, and he got the rear tail gate with power rear view mirror, full moulding/trim, and the rest of the engine and body and frame.
Here are some pics, They are of a spare 1KZ-T engine, that my dad bought back in the day, from Kosovo.
Background:
The 1KZ engine has three variants for the different markets. 1KZ-T, 1KZ-TE, and 1KZ-TE intercooled. 125/212, 130/212, and 145/253 hp/lb:ft respectively. Hopefully it will raise the hp and torque closer to the max, but probably not.
One problem is that the intercooler's outlet does not match the angle and position of the intake manifold's contact plate on the 1KZ-T engine, as the manifold's contact plate, where the overhead pipe coming from the turbo meets is at a 25 degree angle. The original manifold and throttle body were not on my list to buy as my engine does not have an engine ECU.
I have to make some adapter from the blue metal plate in one of the pictures and a piece of pipe (63mmD) welded at an angle and use some short piece of silicon hose. Should be no problem. Also, in order to make more room for the adapter, I decided to remove the throttle body entirely, as the 1KZ-T variant, does not need it to function. The TB is only there to stop the air to the engine, when you switch it off. When the engine runs, the TB is wide open. It is controlled by a small vacuum actuator... The actual gas pedal cable link is attached directly to the injection pump.
Even without the TB, the engine will still stop when you turn it off. That's because the fuel cut of valve stops the fuel flow. The TB is there to cut air to the engine as a secondary measure, in case it becomes a run-away...due to other problems, like worn pistons/rings.
Anyway...
Any advice would be helpful, as I'm experimenting, with hope that it will become an upgrade and not damage the engine from the added torque and hp. It's the same engine block and stuff after all. Right!
A friend of mine and I bought same gen Hilux surf and dismantled it and each of us got some cool stuff. I got the intercooler kit (head cover, intercooler, hood(already painted) and the hardware), the FMU, rear reclining seats, power-folding mirrors, and he got the rear tail gate with power rear view mirror, full moulding/trim, and the rest of the engine and body and frame.
Here are some pics, They are of a spare 1KZ-T engine, that my dad bought back in the day, from Kosovo.
Background:
The 1KZ engine has three variants for the different markets. 1KZ-T, 1KZ-TE, and 1KZ-TE intercooled. 125/212, 130/212, and 145/253 hp/lb:ft respectively. Hopefully it will raise the hp and torque closer to the max, but probably not.
One problem is that the intercooler's outlet does not match the angle and position of the intake manifold's contact plate on the 1KZ-T engine, as the manifold's contact plate, where the overhead pipe coming from the turbo meets is at a 25 degree angle. The original manifold and throttle body were not on my list to buy as my engine does not have an engine ECU.
I have to make some adapter from the blue metal plate in one of the pictures and a piece of pipe (63mmD) welded at an angle and use some short piece of silicon hose. Should be no problem. Also, in order to make more room for the adapter, I decided to remove the throttle body entirely, as the 1KZ-T variant, does not need it to function. The TB is only there to stop the air to the engine, when you switch it off. When the engine runs, the TB is wide open. It is controlled by a small vacuum actuator... The actual gas pedal cable link is attached directly to the injection pump.
Even without the TB, the engine will still stop when you turn it off. That's because the fuel cut of valve stops the fuel flow. The TB is there to cut air to the engine as a secondary measure, in case it becomes a run-away...due to other problems, like worn pistons/rings.
Anyway...
Any advice would be helpful, as I'm experimenting, with hope that it will become an upgrade and not damage the engine from the added torque and hp. It's the same engine block and stuff after all. Right!
