How long have you had them and how are they holding up? I've heard good and bad reviews.
My 98's housing are trashed and point downwards.
They are aftermarket parts and not as "stout" at OEM but they have worked out ok for me. One of them installed funny and a ball socket popped out and would not go in, so I have replaced one after trying a few things to fix it after about 2 years of use. Based on that if you're doing some heavy duty off-roading you might have issue with them. However, the lens is glass which is a nice plus and has the reflector pattern in the housing and not the glass like the older style. Rockauto has them for $35 each right now here:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,2002,4runner,3.4l+v6,1388707,body,headlamp+assembly,10762
OEM new is over $200 a headlight which is insane. There really is a brightness increase from the 96-98 style to the 99-02 style. Before my lights were dirty, light was not focused in the front and had a poor beam pattern. Once I switched housings it was much brighter and the beam pattern is pretty good, there are a few "hot spots" but not enough to be an issue.
I was running 60W/55W Phillips X-treme Vision bulbs (
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BQWQLPO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) which are almost identical to GE Nighthawks. Much brighter than your average store bulb and a very good beam pattern with perfect cut-offs. I wanted to try more wattage but you run the risk of exceeding 60W and melting the wires or the bulb connector since the system is a switched ground, which means all that power goes through the cabin through your signal switch on the steering wheel! Not a good idea.
That's when I found the very simple to install harness to go from a switched ground to a relay that's activated by the factory switch but then pulls power straight from the battery and to also switch to ceramic connectors, not plastic to protect against heat from the bulbs. Interestingly enough, I found what Daniel Stern mentioned to the member who posted above and there wasn't much of a voltage increase that translated to brighter lights, but that's not the reason why I did it.
The Hella 100W/80W are brighter but I did have to adjust my beam pattern a little, they tend to point downwards more than the superior designed Philips X-Treme I had in before. But hey, they were $4 so what can I expect. Now I have super bright lights and when a car pulls up behind me I'm not relying on their headlights to see where I'm going because mine were so dim before! I've got the brighter headlights on the road now.
I also have an LED light bar for dark back roads & deer spotting. Spot/flood light combo so it sprays light everywhere, definitely not safe for oncoming traffic.
I should also add, the TYC's need a lot of adjustment to get them pointing straight. It's a bit tricky and you need some space and a wall/garage/building on perfectly flat road to do it right. I do not like retrofits and LED's since I drive on I-80 every day and am blinding by dorks in pickups that just put them in and drive behind me. I'm not talking about oncoming traffic, I'm talking about people driving the same direction. If you can see the back of someone's head with your headlights in a stinkin' SUV YOUR LIGHTS ARE NOT LEGAL. I understand that some of you on here live in the boonies so that's less of an issue but I have cataracts so it makes my vision all blurry. Not fun.