Headlights

You probably documented this somewhere, but can you point me to the plug and play load resistor you're using?

I use the one from Super Bright LED's. Its a pair. I only use one on the passenger side double sided taped to the Air box.
Headlight Load Resistor Kit - H4 LED Headlight Bulbs | Super Bright LEDs

Its pretty cheaply made and just contains what looks like 2 of the common 6 ohm gold anodized load resistors. There is very likely bettor options.


https://www.amazon.com/Zento-Deals-...ocphy=9033615&hvtargid=pla-568827705785&psc=1


I failed to mention above the pros and cons of the load resistors themselves.
Again per my opinion.

Pros: They allow the high beam indicator to work. Other drivers probably appreciate that. They are plug and play.

Cons: You have to add a component. You have to find a mounting location. They get pretty hot.
 
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How long have you had them and how are they holding up? I've heard good and bad reviews.
My 98's housing are trashed and point downwards.

They are aftermarket parts and not as "stout" at OEM but they have worked out ok for me. One of them installed funny and a ball socket popped out and would not go in, so I have replaced one after trying a few things to fix it after about 2 years of use. Based on that if you're doing some heavy duty off-roading you might have issue with them. However, the lens is glass which is a nice plus and has the reflector pattern in the housing and not the glass like the older style. Rockauto has them for $35 each right now here:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,2002,4runner,3.4l+v6,1388707,body,headlamp+assembly,10762

OEM new is over $200 a headlight which is insane. There really is a brightness increase from the 96-98 style to the 99-02 style. Before my lights were dirty, light was not focused in the front and had a poor beam pattern. Once I switched housings it was much brighter and the beam pattern is pretty good, there are a few "hot spots" but not enough to be an issue.

I was running 60W/55W Phillips X-treme Vision bulbs (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BQWQLPO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) which are almost identical to GE Nighthawks. Much brighter than your average store bulb and a very good beam pattern with perfect cut-offs. I wanted to try more wattage but you run the risk of exceeding 60W and melting the wires or the bulb connector since the system is a switched ground, which means all that power goes through the cabin through your signal switch on the steering wheel! Not a good idea.

That's when I found the very simple to install harness to go from a switched ground to a relay that's activated by the factory switch but then pulls power straight from the battery and to also switch to ceramic connectors, not plastic to protect against heat from the bulbs. Interestingly enough, I found what Daniel Stern mentioned to the member who posted above and there wasn't much of a voltage increase that translated to brighter lights, but that's not the reason why I did it.

The Hella 100W/80W are brighter but I did have to adjust my beam pattern a little, they tend to point downwards more than the superior designed Philips X-Treme I had in before. But hey, they were $4 so what can I expect. Now I have super bright lights and when a car pulls up behind me I'm not relying on their headlights to see where I'm going because mine were so dim before! I've got the brighter headlights on the road now.

I also have an LED light bar for dark back roads & deer spotting. Spot/flood light combo so it sprays light everywhere, definitely not safe for oncoming traffic.

I should also add, the TYC's need a lot of adjustment to get them pointing straight. It's a bit tricky and you need some space and a wall/garage/building on perfectly flat road to do it right. I do not like retrofits and LED's since I drive on I-80 every day and am blinding by dorks in pickups that just put them in and drive behind me. I'm not talking about oncoming traffic, I'm talking about people driving the same direction. If you can see the back of someone's head with your headlights in a stinkin' SUV YOUR LIGHTS ARE NOT LEGAL. I understand that some of you on here live in the boonies so that's less of an issue but I have cataracts so it makes my vision all blurry. Not fun.
 
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If you can see the back of someone's head with your headlights in a stinkin' SUV YOUR LIGHTS ARE NOT LEGAL. I understand that some of you on here live in the boonies so that's less of an issue but I have cataracts so it makes my vision all blurry. Not fun.

I get the feeling that most of the people who are extra picky about lights/lighting, are those that have vision issues made worse by bad lighting. When I have to close my eyes till you pass, the odds go up that I'm going to drift into your lane. Don't close my eyes you say? Well, it doesn't matter because I can't see and am probably already driving into your lane... I close them so that once you're past me, I might have a chance at seeing Anything for the next minute while my vision clears.

I'd like to point out that I have this issue even when driving my Ford Transit... I sit another foot or more higher than in the 4runner. Cheap bad lighting doesn't help anyone.
 
This is 100% correct- former engineer at an automotive lighting company.

Not debating your quote, just adding on for others to read...

Which is where a projector retrofit comes into play! Bypass the factory reflector bowls and let the updated projector handle the light output and distribution as it was designed for the more powerful LED/HID bulb and puts the light output below the cutoff where you want it.
 
Which is where a projector retrofit comes into play!

bulging+eyes.jpg



Call me vain, but I'm seriously struggling to get past the cosmetics. Normally I'm fine with function over form, but retrofits... I just don't think I could look at those things daily and still want to drive it.
 
bulging+eyes.jpg



Call me vain, but I'm seriously struggling to get past the cosmetics. Normally I'm fine with function over form, but retrofits... I just don't think I could look at those things daily and still want to drive it.

Yah totally... and 100% subjective, that's a choice you will have to make on your own rig. I think when done nicely (and usually kept with chrome or color matched together) they actually modernize the look quite a bit. Sometimes choosing the right shroud is all the difference too, but that's just me.

I've done dozens of 3rd Gen retrofits and had retrofits in all my Toyota builds. All I can say is that it's 100% the best "mod" you can do. You use it everyday (unlike a winch or bumpers etc). Well worth the added price over some drop in LED or HID bulbs IMO. Ok, I'll stop preaching now.... lol
 
bulging+eyes.jpg






Call me vain, but I'm seriously struggling to get past the cosmetics. Normally I'm fine with function over form, but retrofits... I just don't think I could look at those things daily and still want to drive it.
There's nothing that looks quite as good as a fresh new set of stock 99+ housings IMO.

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Projector HID retrofit is really the only way to go. Also dark housings and larger shrouds do not look bugeyed at all... looks awesome in fact.
 
Projector HID retrofit is really the only way to go. Also dark housings and larger shrouds do not look bugeyed at all... looks awesome in fact.

All perspective, that makes it WORSE to my eye as it puts all of the focus on that projector lens right in the middle of a huge housing (plus, my truck is silver, dark housings draw the eye like nobodies business).

I've seen very few installs where the reflector was left alone so it's all a bit silver/chrome in there and that's the most tolerable to my eye, but it's still gaudy/cheap looking. Like a girl who bought the cheapest breast implant job and her nips point at 3 and 8 o-clock. A train-wreck you just can't look past.

Actually, the Best looking setup I've seen on a 4runner were those twin-projector russian housings, but I am *NOT* putting that kind of money into what is essentially cosmetics.
 
Aren't those discussed headlight reflectors constructed of metal instead of composites like our headlights, wonder if they can refinish our composite lights? I'd rather have my OEMs replated instead of going aftermarket, they're constructed so much better.

I believe so, but I seem to recall in other discussions I found, that Oregon company has done composite ones too. I'm tempted to look in a salvage yard for a set to try. The price is appealing.
 
I use the one from Super Bright LED's. Its a pair. I only use one on the passenger side double sided taped to the Air box.
Headlight Load Resistor Kit - H4 LED Headlight Bulbs | Super Bright LEDs

Its pretty cheaply made and just contains what looks like 2 of the common 6 ohm gold anodized load resistors. There is very likely bettor options.


https://www.amazon.com/Zento-Deals-...ocphy=9033615&hvtargid=pla-568827705785&psc=1


I failed to mention above the pros and cons of the load resistors themselves.
Again per my opinion.

Pros: They allow the high beam indicator to work. Other drivers probably appreciate that. They are plug and play.

Cons: You have to add a component. You have to find a mounting location. They get pretty hot.

Those are what I am testing now. I use both of them. I am seeing how long they work they hold up as I was only after brighter light. I was tired of being blinded with how dim my 98 lights were. Now I can see the road when it rains. And the signs reflect back for quite a ways out. I an no longer blinded nor do I blind anyone with the low beams.

Plus by keeping my halogens bulbs in my glove box. I can switch back as some of the states have really strict laws on how bright your headlights can be .

I like stock. I am not into modifying vehicles like crazy. The most I would do would be change to a 99+ headlight. However, I doubt I ever change them.

As these solved my problem. I am just curious how long they last.

[MENTION=466411]Dieselchessy[/MENTION] how hot are your load resistors getting?




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Do the LED bulbs get hot enough to melt the ice and snow off the lenses? I know a few in the past went back to halogens because of this.


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Do the LED bulbs get hot enough to melt the ice and snow off the lenses? I know a few in the past went back to halogens because of this.


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I can let you know if we get enough ice and snow ..:)

I believe they melted frost. However, I need more winter weather to answer this for you.

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I like the ones Brilliant was running. Kinda taking a risk, as the part is coming from Russia. Also the front radiator support needs to be cleared to fit the headlights.
Maybe we could ask the vendor for a bulk buy? Ha
 
[MENTION=466411]Dieselchessy[/MENTION] how hot are your load resistors getting?

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Don’t have an actual temp. They get hot enough you wouldn’t want to hold onto them too long, but not so hot they’d burn you.

No idea if they melt freezing rain, but I just drove home in a blizzard and they did great. I’ll have to put my hand on the lens some time and see if it’s warm.

Mine have lasted well over a year. I carry 2 halogen bulbs in the foam lined box the LED’s came in, just in case. Still waiting.... I guess if they freeze up in freezing rain I could toss in the halogens.

Honestly I kind of expect the resistor to fail first. But it’s not critical to operation and I have a spare.

I was buying $45 halogens every year and a half or so. These LED’s are not much more and if they only lasted a year I’d be happy.
 
Don’t have an actual temp. They get hot enough you wouldn’t want to hold onto them too long, but not so hot they’d burn you.

No idea if they melt freezing rain, but I just drove home in a blizzard and they did great. I’ll have to put my hand on the lens some time and see if it’s warm.

Mine have lasted well over a year. I carry 2 halogen bulbs in the foam lined box the LED’s came in, just in case. Still waiting.... I guess if they freeze up in freezing rain I could toss in the halogens.

Honestly I kind of expect the resistor to fail first. But it’s not critical to operation and I have a spare.

I was buying $45 halogens every year and a half or so. These LED’s are not much more and if they only lasted a year I’d be happy.

We might have to put the resister under the Light housing that way the heat will melt the ice off your headlight lens..:D
 
I swapped my 98 housings that were dirty with a cracked lens to the newer, brighter 99-02 style housings, $40 each from Rockauto.com, TYC brand. Made a substantial difference.

Last month I put in a relay system so I can safely run higher wattage lightbulbs for $18: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07M6W1PMK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1.

Then I put in 100W/80W bulbs (stock is 55W/50W) for $4 a bulb: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000COBLKW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Let's just say I don't worry about dim headlights anymore. Plus cheap replacements if they burn out.

So I tried this upgrade and it's been working out well so far. That relay is pretty decent and hooked up without issue. The Hella bulbs are definitely brighter and are the same color as normal. The high beams are really powerful as well.

I seem to have lost my high beam indicator. That's not surprising since there's a relay harness in front of the headlight plugs now. Any ideas how to get the indicator back?
 
So I tried this upgrade and it's been working out well so far. That relay is pretty decent and hooked up without issue. The Hella bulbs are definitely brighter and are the same color as normal. The high beams are really powerful as well.

I seem to have lost my high beam indicator. That's not surprising since there's a relay harness in front of the headlight plugs now. Any ideas how to get the indicator back?

Glad it is working well for you, minus the hi-beam indicator...

As you might have seen, the seller commented on such:

Q: will these still trigger the high beam indicator?

A: This will vary from vehicle to vehicle. Some vehicles' dash light indicator lights up only when a good amount of power is being drawn through the original high beam circuit. Since this wiring harness omits the factory circuit, and only uses 150mA to trigger the relay through the factory circuits, it may cause the vehicle to fail on noticing the high beams being on. Hope this helps.


If you have not gone with LED dash bulbs yet, I wonder if doing so, at least for that bulb, would do-the-trick (they don't need to see as much power to function). Just a thought...

It seems that some harness options incorporate the high beam indicator lamp. Scroll down here a bit.

Brighter Head Lights
 

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