06-10-2020, 11:36 AM
|
#16
|
Junior Member
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Saint Charles MO
Posts: 19
|
|
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Saint Charles MO
Posts: 19
|
I would also suggest you look for obvious signs of wear or chew marks from rodents. Good luck. Electrical issues are never fun.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
06-10-2020, 07:26 PM
|
#17
|
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Southwest
Posts: 1,075
Real Name: Chris
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Southwest
Posts: 1,075
Real Name: Chris
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bad Luck
|
Thanks for the diagrams, I appreciate it!
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDurk
Yeah, there is no such thing. The EWD goes circuit by circuit. PM me an e-mail address and I'll hook you up with the whole set.
This will not be fun. If you can't find the issue by physically looking at suspect areas, such as any modified wiring, then the first thing is to pull the 1G plug on the back of the inside fusebox. Basically, that fuse feeds a bunch of stuff on board the BODY ECU and then a bunch of other stuff elsewhere through that 1G plug. If it still blows with that plug pulled, issue is internal to the BOCY ECU and you know what that means.So I hope it doesn't blow and we can move on to other stuff.
|
Looks like I'm off to a strong start with my terminology haha. Yikes. I think
@ Bad Luck
got me squared away with the diagrams.
The only other aftermarket wiring in the truck is for my sub/amp and two aftermarket light switches (that aren't currently running any accessories) that I tapped into the cluster dimmer switch so they would light up with the dash lights. I need to go buy some more 10A fuses before I can start testing, thought I had another box.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jarods7920
I would also suggest you look for obvious signs of wear or chew marks from rodents. Good luck. Electrical issues are never fun.
|
Will do, thanks!
__________________
Fishwerks' Photo/Build Thread 2000 SR5 l White on White l 35s l Supercharged
--
2010 Trail Edition l Salsa Red Pearl l Stock
--
Instagram
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
06-11-2020, 02:01 PM
|
#18
|
|
Elite Member
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Pocono Mountains
Posts: 7,502
|
|
Elite Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Pocono Mountains
Posts: 7,502
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bad Luck
|
That's EXACTLY where I got the list I posted in Post #9 above.
__________________
'99 4Runner SR5 5spd 3.4L V6 4WD(U.S), original '99 Talls in front, OME 906s in back, Hella fogs, Trekmaster shocks in front, Billy in back, no running boards, FIAMM horns, Alpine sound, Michelin LTX M/S2's, owned since new.
'97 HiLux SW4 5spd 4WD(Japan model bought in Brazil assembled in Argentina, very close to a 3.0 4Runner/Surf)
'71 FordWillys Jeep CJ5 (with straight six Ford Maverick 3.0 liter engine--lives in the mountains north of Sao Paulo Brazil)
My Backyard Frame Swap
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
06-23-2020, 03:34 PM
|
#19
|
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Southwest
Posts: 1,075
Real Name: Chris
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Southwest
Posts: 1,075
Real Name: Chris
|
Well I think I found the source of the issue at the tailgate wiring harness...any opinions on repairing vs replacing?
Untitled by Fishwerks., on Flickr
__________________
Fishwerks' Photo/Build Thread 2000 SR5 l White on White l 35s l Supercharged
--
2010 Trail Edition l Salsa Red Pearl l Stock
--
Instagram
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
06-24-2020, 04:19 AM
|
#21
|
Elite Member
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Stouchsburg PA
Posts: 5,353
|
|
Elite Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Stouchsburg PA
Posts: 5,353
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishwerks
Well I think I found the source of the issue at the tailgate wiring harness...any opinions on repairing vs replacing?
Untitled by Fishwerks., on Flickr
|
Use uninsulated crimps and then solder the crimp and shrink tube the crimp. This way won’t shorten the harness.
Solder the connections no matter what you do.
My 04 Grand Cherokee had this happen in the door jams and I extended them 3”.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
06-24-2020, 01:49 PM
|
#22
|
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Snohomish
Posts: 531
Real Name: Matt
|
|
Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Snohomish
Posts: 531
Real Name: Matt
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishwerks
Well I think I found the source of the issue at the tailgate wiring harness...any opinions on repairing vs replacing?
Untitled by Fishwerks., on Flickr
|
Is there trick to get that damn runner grommet back in place?!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
06-25-2020, 10:30 AM
|
#23
|
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Southwest
Posts: 1,075
Real Name: Chris
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Southwest
Posts: 1,075
Real Name: Chris
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by brillo_76
Just fix it. Extremely common for the tailgate and door jam wiring to do that.
Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
|
Yeah I have seen a couple threads on the same issue just in the last couple days, thanks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 19963.4lsr5
Use uninsulated crimps and then solder the crimp and shrink tube the crimp. This way won’t shorten the harness.
Solder the connections no matter what you do.
My 04 Grand Cherokee had this happen in the door jams and I extended them 3”.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
|
Thanks for the suggestion, seems like a good idea. I'm thinking I may need to splice new wiring on both sides away from that location since the wires bend so much, like this video by
@ mtbtim
and
@ infamousRNR
- YouTube
Quote:
Originally Posted by 3RDGENGuy
Is there trick to get that damn runner grommet back in place?!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
|
In this video that
@ mtbtim
and
@ infamousRNR
conveniently just posted a couple days ago, they pull-up the plastic surround in the body, attach the grommet to the plastic surround and then put the whole thing back into place at 16:38 into the video - YouTube
__________________
Fishwerks' Photo/Build Thread 2000 SR5 l White on White l 35s l Supercharged
--
2010 Trail Edition l Salsa Red Pearl l Stock
--
Instagram
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
02-09-2024, 07:10 PM
|
#24
|
Junior Member
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2023
Posts: 2
|
|
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2023
Posts: 2
|
Hi, trying to resolve the same burnt ECU-IG fuse issue on my 2002. Thanks for the diagrams and list of circuits on that fuse. Where can I find the 1G connector on the back of the junction box? Do you (anybody) have a diagram of the connectors?
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
02-10-2024, 04:18 PM
|
#25
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: May 2023
Location: Chiloquin
Posts: 57
Real Name: Patrick
|
|
Member
Join Date: May 2023
Location: Chiloquin
Posts: 57
Real Name: Patrick
|
There's a very useful item out now, especially handy for situations where you do not need the wires shortened, but making them longer isn't really a viable option either. Like repairing the rear door wires in the above picture. It's a piece of FIT-200 heat shrink, no meltwall inside, with a tube of solder in the middle. When you shrink down the heat shrink, the solder melts, soldering the wires together. Voila! Two pieces in one, with soldering the wires, and heat shrinking the join happen at once. I believe some even have a crimp tube outside the solder, but I may be wrong on that.
Soldering the join IS always a good idea, but ensuring you have a good mechanical connection is also vital to a good repair. In other words, and I learned to do this in my first soldering class in the Corps, tinning the wires, making a hook out of each one, and crimping them tight to each other, is the first step to making a good repair of broken wires. The instructor liked to stand on one end of the wire, and hoist up on the other to test the solder joins we made.
Sadly, that method shortens the wires, which is a bad thing in this situation. The heat shrink/solder tube item removes the need to prep the wires by hooking them together. No shortening of the wire. Unfortunately, the mechanical connection IS weaker, but not a lot. Just make sure you use the right size heat shrink to fit the wire correctly. It should be just big enough to go over the wire's insulation. That will be the strongest mechanical join.
Tin the wires, if at all possible, before inserting them into the tube. This will help ensure the solder join is the best possible, and will allow the solder to flow into the wires better. Also, using a good liquid flux will make the solder flow evenly, ensuring the best solder join possible.
The solder/heat shrink items are available from Grainger, and McMaster-Carr, either individually, or in kit form. Very reasonable prices.
Sorry, I ramble on this subject, having been a radar technician, and shop supervisor during my career.
Good luck to you!
Pat☺
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
02-11-2024, 12:22 AM
|
#26
|
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Northern California
Posts: 1,721
Real Name: Blair
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Northern California
Posts: 1,721
Real Name: Blair
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by 3ToyGuy
There's a very useful item out now, especially handy for situations where you do not need the wires shortened, but making them longer isn't really a viable option either. Like repairing the rear door wires in the above picture. It's a piece of FIT-200 heat shrink, no meltwall inside, with a tube of solder in the middle. When you shrink down the heat shrink, the solder melts, soldering the wires together. Voila! Two pieces in one, with soldering the wires, and heat shrinking the join happen at once. I believe some even have a crimp tube outside the solder, but I may be wrong on that.
Soldering the join IS always a good idea, but ensuring you have a good mechanical connection is also vital to a good repair. In other words, and I learned to do this in my first soldering class in the Corps, tinning the wires, making a hook out of each one, and crimping them tight to each other, is the first step to making a good repair of broken wires. The instructor liked to stand on one end of the wire, and hoist up on the other to test the solder joins we made.
Sadly, that method shortens the wires, which is a bad thing in this situation. The heat shrink/solder tube item removes the need to prep the wires by hooking them together. No shortening of the wire. Unfortunately, the mechanical connection IS weaker, but not a lot. Just make sure you use the right size heat shrink to fit the wire correctly. It should be just big enough to go over the wire's insulation. That will be the strongest mechanical join.
Tin the wires, if at all possible, before inserting them into the tube. This will help ensure the solder join is the best possible, and will allow the solder to flow into the wires better. Also, using a good liquid flux will make the solder flow evenly, ensuring the best solder join possible.
The solder/heat shrink items are available from Grainger, and McMaster-Carr, either individually, or in kit form. Very reasonable prices.
Sorry, I ramble on this subject, having been a radar technician, and shop supervisor during my career.
Good luck to you!
Pat☺
|
Funny - I've been getting non-stop ads on IG for SolderStick wire connectors. I kinda thought they were just more cheap Chinese junk but there is certainly a place for them. It's funny - I no longer carry a lighter but I carry a cordless heat gun in my rig....... getting old is a trip. Probably gonna grab a box of them or similar.
__________________
260K - Y2K/E - Clock still works
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
02-11-2024, 09:23 PM
|
#27
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: May 2023
Location: Chiloquin
Posts: 57
Real Name: Patrick
|
|
Member
Join Date: May 2023
Location: Chiloquin
Posts: 57
Real Name: Patrick
|
How about another "ad" for McMaster-carr?
McMaster-Carr
A short...ok, really long...search-through, you'll see what I meant. Both FIT-200, and FIT-300 heat shrink butt splices. Solder in center, and just basic crimp-on. I strongly reccomend solder in center. Much better electrical connection, and will last much longer. If you have a soldering iron, and know what you're doing, tinning the wire before inserting will make the solder flow better.
If you want some advice on what to do with what, as far as soldering goes, I'll be happy to write up an instruction manual on proper soldering techniques. I fear I may get a trifle long winded about it, but you WILL know the correct techniques to solder anything when I get done
It takes about a $50.00 initial layout for a decent soldering kit, but after that, you'll be golden.
Pat
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is On
|
|
|
|