So for a guy who doesn't have all of his tools (due to a move and temp housing situation) where can I find info on coil pack values and such ? Is there a thread I have missed maybe in a search ?

I had out of the blue a stalling issue. Changed fuel filter and pcv valve. Cleaned MAF and did some visual checking. Seafoam in fuel tank. Issue had not returned until today.

Today breaking up at 35mph and flashing check engine light just like before. Pull over when it died. Try to restart with no luck.
Push gas pedal to floor and it would start.

Limped it home where it ran fine the last few miles home.

No codes with my cheap tester.

Back story is the previous owner towards the end of ownership didn't do much. So most of the items are unknown. I did change the spark plugs to OEM after a check engine light came on a week after ownership. Found 5 OE style plugs and 1 odd unit as in not correct for application.

Things that need to be addressed I am guessing are plug wires coils and a test somehow to check fuel pump.
Any other things I might be missing?

Flashing cel light is mostly engine misfire. They run rough when a cylinder or 2 is not firing properly.

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First thought was change coil pack and wires I just don't want to throw money at it and hope.

This may help. You can swap the coils to narrow it down. This is the info I have gathered for the V6 . I am hoping others can contribute for the 4 cylinder.

Its a work in progress.

Spark Plugs Wires and Coil Information for the 5VZ-FE

With engine misfire I should be getting a code is my only hold back on ignition.

I will check those values once they cool off. Thanks for the link

My ran a day with a pending codes before it kicked on the CEL light.

If nothing else you can rule out those components as the cause

Nobody believes in just running good Injector cleaner through their fuel systems a few times a year. Granted the OP is most likely correct and his are fine. I just dont see the sence in pulling injectors that are working.

Then you go get a set out of a junkyard and send them somewhere to be cleaned.

Those really can be cleaned yourself and some form users show how it can be done.


Oh well to each ones own. Whatever works for the users.

I just run some good fuel injector cleaner through a fuel times a year and I haven't had the need to change an injector yet in 30 years. I am not this lucky so it must actually keep them clean.

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I first believed it was a fuel pump but I have since figured it either worked or didn't.
I haven't ruled anything out.

These guys here in CO do a great job. small shop 20 dollars each for total rebuild and testing.
Fuel Injector Specialists - Home - Wheat Ridge, CO

Fuel pressure at the rail will rule the pump out

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Limited tools is whats holding me back on some of these projects. Looks like the fuel pressure test could be a bit fun.

So Im going to bring this back as I have been on and off looking into the issue.

So yesterday I wanted to fix the leaking valve covers. I changed them and all associated items. Checked hoes and such to just give it a once over.

Took it to get gas (on 1/4 tank). Put Seafoam in gas and drove home.

idling in driveway looking for my flashlight to check for any anomalies. It dies with no warning.

I got it started runs ok

But here is the new issue. My code scanner will not read codes now just says error.

Starting back a square one.

Spark plugs few months old. Coil pack checked via ohm. New spark plug wires. Cleaned MAF. New pcv valve. Cleaned throttle body carefully. Newer fuel filter. Seafoam in engine.

My bet is on your TPS/IAC.

Look at my torque spec/service information thread for values.


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Since we are stay at home Ill look into that now.
Thanks

Yes, check you iac. I had a dirty iac that resulted in stalling in idle. I removed it and cleaned it and my stalling in idle went away but, the ecu never threw a code during the stalling event. I would ohm out the tps and iac to make sure those are in spec.