@mtbtim
&
@infamousRNR
, if you had to do another 5vzfe swap (with an automatic trans), would you still remove the transmission & transfer case like the FSM suggests or attempt it with the transmission & transfer case still bolted to the vehicle?
It's hard to say which is the lesser of two evils. If you remove the transfer case and trans, getting the engine out and back in is a breeze, but you had to spend that time to pull trans and transfer case. When it comes to getting the trans and transfer case back in, having them separated and going in one at a time makes it easier. A trans jack only works well when the transfer case isn't connected. With it connected, it's too back heavy and messes up the ability to make fore and aft adjustments.
We just shot an engine swap on a 2nd Gen 4runner. We put a 3.4 Liter in it. We kept the trans and transfer case bolted up. Pulling the 3.0 wasn't that hard but getting the 3.4 married up to the trans was a bit of a pain in the ass. We used a trick with a ratchet strap to give the engine hoist more adjustment which definitely helped with the mating.
I'd have to say now that I've done it both ways, I'd probably keep the trans bolted up and fight a bit with getting the engine mated with the trans. We were doing it on a manual transmission which makes it a bit harder because you have to align the input shaft splines with the pressure plate and then finally get the end of the shaft into the pilot bearing. With the automatic, you just have to worry about getting the alignment dowels on the engine block aligned with the transmission bell housing.
Check out this video of us dropping in the 3.4 into our new buddy Brendon's 2nd Gen 4runner.
__________________ "My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it!"
We just used a harbor freight low profile with another person up front to mate the transmission and engine back together. The 2nd person can move the engine back as it sitting on the 2 engine mounts bolted up. That seems to be the easiest way o found so far. I would recommend verifying your torque convertor is fully in too.
We just used a harbor freight low profile with another person up front to mate the transmission and engine back together. The 2nd person can move the engine back as it sitting on the 2 engine mounts bolted up. That seems to be the easiest way I found so far. I would recommend verifying your torque convertor is fully in . As if its not the entire way in it will not go back together. Do not use bolts to pull them together or you will be having the torque convertor stuck to the flex plate and you will not be able to bolt the flex plate to the torque convertor either..
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