06-09-2020, 01:13 PM
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#1
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Driver Door Replacement
Getting ready to swap out my driver’s door assembly. Did a fly & drive when I bought my 4TR last year.
Some really considerate individual hit the door while parked at a rest stop on way back home, no sorry, no note, just a nice dented door.
Anyway....found replacement door in same color w/original paint.
Getting ready to swap it out and wondering about compatibility issues regarding power locks & key fob, etc.
Intending to transfer door handle assembly with lock cylinder from original door to replacement door. Any additional parts I need to transfer from original door to replacement door in order to have smooth transition with remote key fob and power accessories.
Replacement door came w/master power control switch for windows, locks & mirrors.
Seems straight forward but if anyone has any helpful tips much appreciated.
Original and replacement doors pictured below:
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2002 SR5 Sport 4WD
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06-09-2020, 03:08 PM
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#2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sarki
Getting ready to swap it out and wondering about compatibility issues regarding power locks & key fob, etc.
Intending to transfer door handle assembly with lock cylinder from original door to replacement door. Any additional parts I need to transfer from original door to replacement door in order to have smooth transition with remote key fob and power accessories.
Replacement door came w/master power control switch for windows, locks & mirrors.
Seems straight forward but if anyone has any helpful tips much appreciated.
Original and replacement doors pictured below:
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I don't think you will have to swap any of the wiring, I'm guessing the doors are the same year based on it being a sport edition? But to get the lock cylinder you will have to pull the interior panels and cut the adhesive for the plastic moisture barrier anyways. So I'd get the lock cylinders swapped (I can't remember if the window has to be up or down to get to the bolts...), mount the new door on the truck and re-connect the wiring harness to test everything before putting the panels back on.
When I swapped my driver door it was helpful to have a second set of hands to hold onto the door and something just tall enough to fit under the bottom side of the door to have it rest on while unbolting the hinges.
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Fishwerks' Photo/Build Thread 2000 SR5 l White on White l 35s l Supercharged
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2010 Trail Edition l Salsa Red Pearl l Stock
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Last edited by Fishwerks; 06-09-2020 at 03:10 PM.
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06-09-2020, 05:46 PM
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#3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishwerks
I'm guessing the doors are the same year based on it being a sport edition? But to get the lock cylinder you will have to pull the interior panels and cut the adhesive for the plastic moisture barrier anyways. So I'd get the lock cylinders swapped (I can't remember if the window has to be up or down to get to the bolts...), mount the new door on the truck and re-connect the wiring harness to test everything before putting the panels back on.
When I swapped my driver door it was helpful to have a second set of hands to hold onto the door and something just tall enough to fit under the bottom side of the door to have it rest on while unbolting the hinges.
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Yes, replacement door is from same year (2002) and exact same Sport package so everything is identical.
Unfortunately i’ll be doing this solo but I get your point about an extra set of hands as that door assembly is heavy. I’ll rig up something to help support the weight.
Going to install the outside handle assembly w/lock cylinder from original door to the replacement door so no issues with the key.
I don’t want any issues with the remote key fob as far as the auto locks.
Anything i’m overlooking or all good as far as key fob by swapping out the outside handle assembly?
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06-09-2020, 06:47 PM
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#5
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what about window down and a rope from upper frame up to rafters of garage to hang door on to take weight
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2000 SR-5 Highlander version 4:30's, factory locker , green, bought 6/21
2001 SR-5... bought 11/20..sold 6/21....
2000 SR-5 moded, lifted, e locker, other cool stuff, totaled 10/20
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06-09-2020, 08:41 PM
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#7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brillo_76
Better then nothing but it's a 5 min job per door with 2 people. Might take quite a while with only one.
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Thinking i’ll rig something up with hi-lift floor jack to support the weight as I align the hinges and door check and start to draw in a couple of hinge bolts.
Looks like need to remove inside lower hinge pillar trim panel to access connections for wire harnesses to door.
Probably more likely to enlist help from the dog rather than the wife!
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06-09-2020, 08:58 PM
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#8
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Plug and play, nothing to worry about besides the lock cylinder. It's fairly straightforward to do. I've done it myself plenty of times. Helps to take the front fender off to get the bolts in and out without marring either one.
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06-10-2020, 12:51 PM
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#9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sarki
Thinking i’ll rig something up with hi-lift floor jack to support the weight as I align the hinges and door check and start to draw in a couple of hinge bolts.
Looks like need to remove inside lower hinge pillar trim panel to access connections for wire harnesses to door.
Probably more likely to enlist help from the dog rather than the wife!
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Lay a bunch of masking tape on the edges of the fender/door to prevent damage. Take everything you can out of the door before bolting it up. The bare shell weighs like 20lbs, then all the other crap makes it 50lbs.
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06-10-2020, 01:19 PM
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#10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sarki
Thinking i’ll rig something up with hi-lift floor jack to support the weight as I align the hinges and door check and start to draw in a couple of hinge bolts.
Looks like need to remove inside lower hinge pillar trim panel to access connections for wire harnesses to door.
Probably more likely to enlist help from the dog rather than the wife!
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Bummer. It's a shame I had my dad help me when I swapped 4 doors. Excellent idea to get some tape and foam on those fenders to keep from scratching them. One of those section cup jack stands with some safety straps. Would do it too. Just don't know where you rent one.
You mostly see the windshield folks use them..
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06-10-2020, 01:20 PM
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#11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shadow247
Lay a bunch of masking tape on the edges of the fender/door to prevent damage. Take everything you can out of the door before bolting it up. The bare shell weighs like 20lbs, then all the other crap makes it 50lbs.
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Great minds think alike......went out this morning and picked up a roll of 2” wide blue painters tape after reading response from
@ UnderFire
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I have 2 floor jacks so hoping to support the weight with them.
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06-10-2020, 07:09 PM
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#12
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Mission accomplished.
Realized my portable work platform courtesy of Northern Tool was the perfect height with a couple of drop clothes used for padding to support the door as unbolted the old and bolted up the new.
Was easier to detach the door from the hinge rather than the hinge from the pillar.
Swapped over the lock cylinder from old door to replacement and all is working well.
The black clip in the last few pictures dropped from behind the trim panel when I removed the panel from the old door and same thing happened when removed panel from replacement door.
Where the hell does that clip go and what is it’s function.
Thanks to those who provided suggestions.
The list continues:
*Valve cover gaskets
*LBJ with inner & outer tie rod ends
*Rear axle bearing, seals and new backing plates for the brakes
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Last edited by Sarki; 06-10-2020 at 08:32 PM.
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06-11-2020, 12:28 PM
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#13
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Looking good. Hopefully you scrubbed that arm rest/handle before you re-installed it. They clean up pretty easily...
If the tie rods are tight, no need to replace them (not a safety issue like the LBJ). Also, if you think there is any chance you need a new steering rack, the OEM one comes with new ITR's, and makes it a good deal compared to questionable aftermarket options.
-Charlie
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06-11-2020, 02:46 PM
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#14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phattyduck
Looking good. Hopefully you scrubbed that arm rest/handle before you re-installed it. They clean up pretty easily...
If the tie rods are tight, no need to replace them (not a safety issue like the LBJ). Also, if you think there is any chance you need a new steering rack, the OEM one comes with new ITR's, and makes it a good deal compared to questionable aftermarket options.
-Charlie
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Would love to know what your process was for scrubbing the armrest fabric as I have tried on both doors with no success. Maybe the fabric/material on the Sport package is more difficult to clean than others but please share any suggestions.
Steering rack seems ok but there is minimal play in the front end so thought tie rod ends may help.
LBJ’s were replaced under recall at 60K but now have 180K so figured it was due for another set. I see they have the plastic protectors on them so thinking that means the lower torque numbers when I replace the LBJ as well as the 4 bolts each side......correct?
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06-11-2020, 04:23 PM
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#15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sarki
Would love to know what your process was for scrubbing the armrest fabric as I have tried on both doors with no success. Maybe the fabric/material on the Sport package is more difficult to clean than others but please share any suggestions.
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The 01/02 fabric is a bit more delicate looking/feeling than the earlier stuff... I just took the whole thing off, got it wet, sprayed with simple green and scrubbed with a fingernail brush, rinse well, and let it dry. You can do a similar process with the seat belt if it is retracting slowly (just make sure it fully dries before you let it retract back into the reel).
You can't do that with much else on the interior since it doesn't come out so easily (then again, I did launder my front seat covers after removing them...).
-Charlie
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'89 Camry Alltrac LE 3S-GTE 5spd
'17 Chevy Volt Premier
'16 Honda Odyssey Elite
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