Starter click, no start

octanejunkie

octanejunkie

Elite Member
Haven't been driving much due to Covid but noticed a few delay starts this weekend; turn the key, wait, then start.

Today, turned the key, click then nothing. Pulled the STA fuse under the dash, turned the key, no click, no nothing. Put the fuse back in, turned the key, click, no start.

Could the starter have just pooped the bed, just like that? Haven't tried the BFH fix yet, but...
 
What about voltage on batt, at least 12.7? solid contacts on batt?

Age of batt? here in hotter than heck central texas, almost any battery will not last past 3-4 years due to heat.....
 
Have a VOM? check the battery voltage. My commuter car been sitting due to Covid as well. Wouldn't start. Was only getting 8 volts, and wouldn't recharge. It was near its expiration anyways.
 
jgue467 said:
What about voltage on batt, at least 12.7? solid contacts on batt?

Age of batt? here in hotter than heck central texas, almost any battery will not last past 3-4 years due to heat.....
Click to expand...

RotaryDreamz said:
Have a VOM? check the battery voltage. My commuter car been sitting due to Covid as well. Wouldn't start. Was only getting 8 volts, and wouldn't recharge. It was near its expiration anyways.
Click to expand...

Great minds lol

Battery is good, solid contacts, tests 12.75v after several tries; it's only a few years old. I can throw a slow charge on it overnight to be sure.

I've been driving every weekend and a few times during the week, just not every day...

Thanks for quick replies!
 
octanejunkie said:
Entire starter was replaced a few years ago
Click to expand...

If it's been a few years, the contacts could be corroded or could be worn down; especially if you are making short trips and constantly starting it. Give the percussive maintenance or attempt the Fonzerelli Fix to see if that works.
 
To me it’s still starter contacts. Reman anything only replace what is bad. If your starter needed brushes and contacts looked good they replaced the brushes with cheep ones and sent it on it’s way.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
How many miles on the rig? I had a 3 rd gen fool me thinking it was the starter. When my issue was actually the contacts in the back if the key warn out in the start position.

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
 
brillo_76 said:
How many miles on the rig? I had a 3 rd gen fool me thinking it was the starter. When my issue was actually the contacts in the back if the key warn out in the start position.

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

What did you end up doing exactly?On My daughters 01 we have replaced the battery which was due anyway, replaced the starter and that’s it for now. Still having issues.
 
I've replaced 4 starters in my 2005 SR5 150,000 miles since I bought it new.
OEM went out in 4 years. Dealer shop rebuilt the contacts with a 1 year warranty, but it failed in one year.

I asked them if I bought them a new starter ($285) if they would replace the rebuilt one (solenoid contacts). They said OK. The dealer here wanted $900 to order a new starter from Japan. STG.

That new starter for $285 failed in 4 years.

I then bought an AM DBE starter from Amazon for $100. It failed in 4 years.
Amazon.com: DB Electrical SND0491 New Starter For Toyota Tacoma & Tundra 4.0L 4.0 05 06 07 08 09 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 & 4Runner 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 FJ Cruiser 07 08 09: Automotive

I then bought a Quality Built AM starter with a lifetime warranty. It's been in the 4runner for 3 years. Quality said if it fails they will replace free - so I kept the receipt and their box.

I also bought a AM starter DBE for when the Quality Built starter fails - which I'm sure it will.

Two bolts replace a 4runner V6 starter. My boat mechanic did the job in my driveway in 30 minutes for $60.

Do yourself a favor. DON't try rebuilding the solenoids. Not worth it. Will last just 6 months to a year - and you'll be doing it again.
 
Last edited:
Classic starter contact failure. Easier and cheaper to just replace the contacts than to pay to replace the whole deal. Try turning it over 5-10 times. If it does eventually kick on and starts strong, you found the culprit.

If you do think it's an ignition issue, use the spare key and see if that gets it to start.
 
gamefreakgc said:
Classic starter contact failure. Easier and cheaper to just replace the contacts than to pay to replace the whole deal. Try turning it over 5-10 times. If it does eventually kick on and starts strong, you found the culprit.
Click to expand...
Exactly this. Trying the key a few times moves the plunger (rotation) and finds a 'clean' spot on the contacts.

Don't go to long in this state, because it can also get to the point where the solenoid can stick on, which is a Bad Thing(TM).

Unless it was a new OEM or Denso reman, it can fail fairly quickly... Oh, and doing the starter on the 2WD is easy-peasy - just disconnect the battery first.

-Charlie
 
Guys, sorry for the delay in response. It's definitely the battery, starter, starter relay, starter solenoid are all perfect.

I threw a jump starter on the battery and it fired up right away. I left the battery slow charge overnight it only got to 11 volts maximum. Drove around for 2 days. This morning the car wouldn't start. Threw The jump starter on it and it fired right up. I'm driving right now with the battery light on, so I know that the alternator is running the vehicle at this point.

in case you were wondering, I've got a spare alternator and tested both of them. I even installed the spare and it makes no difference. It's the battery

The question now is do I get an Odyssey or get the highest CCA/RC group 24R or 35 Parts store battery. This is the Excide battery that I bought a little over 2 years ago, so I'm skipping those guys and I'll never buy an Optima again for other reasons.

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
 
octanejunkie said:
Guys, sorry for the delay in response.

The question now is do I get an Odyssey or get the highest CCA/RC group 24R or 35 Parts store battery. This is the Excide battery that I bought a little over 2 years ago, so I'm skipping those guys and I'll never buy an Optima again for other reasons.

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Ive gone through so many and for most of us just a regular lead acid battery is prob the way to go. I currently have an autozone platimum that I spend $200. Its already on its second one since the first one only lastes 2 years but was replaced under warranty.

I just find a large lead acid with the best warranty for price. Costco is always a good bet. Walmart might be the cheapest outside costco.
 
octanejunkie said:
Guys, sorry for the delay in response. It's definitely the battery, starter, starter relay, starter solenoid are all perfect.

I threw a jump starter on the battery and it fired up right away. I left the battery slow charge overnight it only got to 11 volts maximum. Drove around for 2 days. This morning the car wouldn't start. Threw The jump starter on it and it fired right up. I'm driving right now with the battery light on, so I know that the alternator is running the vehicle at this point.

in case you were wondering, I've got a spare alternator and tested both of them. I even installed the spare and it makes no difference. It's the battery

The question now is do I get an Odyssey or get the highest CCA/RC group 24R or 35 Parts store battery. This is the Excide battery that I bought a little over 2 years ago, so I'm skipping those guys and I'll never buy an Optima again for other reasons.

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
Click to expand...


A 27F should fit in, it’s suppose to be a longer 24.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
octanejunkie said:
... click then nothing....
Click to expand...

Exactly what clicks? Start3r r3lay? Starter solenoid?
Exactly how does it sound and feel? Weak? Energetic?
Consistent or intermittent?

Try connecting the start3r sol3noid coil (below) directly to battery +.
Does it make solenoid cluck energertically?
Does it consistently crank?
starter_solenoid_coil_connector_1__41242245c2ee1cdf83b7d0e3f1eebd10faf2483a.jpg
 
RAD4Runner said:
Exactly what clicks? Start3r r3lay? Starter solenoid?
Exactly how does it sound and feel? Weak? Energetic?
Consistent or intermittent?

Try connecting the start3r sol3noid coil (below) directly to battery +.
Does it make solenoid cluck energertically?
Does it consistently crank?
starter_solenoid_coil_connector_1__41242245c2ee1cdf83b7d0e3f1eebd10faf2483a.jpg
Click to expand...

I believe it's the starter solenoid clicking, one definite crisp click, then nothing. No cranking.

Battery WAS fine, until it wasn't.

Alternator was cutting out and not charging the battery completely, I found this out by swapping good battery from my Chevy (same pole orientation) with the truck running. As soon as I lifted the negative battery terminal the truck died.

Put my spare, factory alternator in with a good battery and the truck started no problem.

Left the battery charging since yesterday, again, and will let it charge and see what the max voltage it takes is. If need be I will order a new battery.

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
 
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