05-18-2023, 08:38 AM
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#16
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Broken Arrow, OK
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Real Name: Ben
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
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Real Name: Ben
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDurk
That bolt is p/n 90119-10825 *** STD. PART. The 10 right after the hyphen means it is an M10. Toyota M10s are usually 1.25 thread. This list has never done me wrong:
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Thank you. That's exactly the info I needed.
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05-02-2024, 02:13 PM
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#18
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Junior Member
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Join Date: May 2024
Location: Provo, Utah
Posts: 1
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Junior Member
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDurk
Actually, on that particular bolt, this may not be the best approach. It's probably not stripped, rather the thread has corroded and the weld-nut has broken free from the sheet metal of the floor contour it is welded to. This is pretty common. You can try the pry bar, but it probably won't work and if you force it hard with the pry bar, you will just rupture the sheet metal and do more damage to the floor. Pressure with the pry-bar is unlikely to secure the nut if the sheet-metal could not hold it,
There is no easy way. I would try to dremel the head of the bolt off. You could also drill the head off, but it might spin on you. If you have to, then just go violent and just pry the base up without trying to turn the bolt until the nut busts through the sheet metal. Then you still have to cut the bolt out of there.
The fix is easy. Just get a longer bolt and drill through the lower floor and put a nut and a big fender washer on the underside of the truck. Cover with RTV to seal. That's worked fine for me and many others.
Some people of the OCD persuasion have welded in new sheet metal or inserted a new nut through a slot cut into the side of the contour. Search and you will find them.
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Thanks for this fix TheDurk I have really never drilled through metal like this before. Does it require a special drill or bit? Any advice about the procedure is most welcome!
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05-02-2024, 07:48 PM
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#19
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Elite Member
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Join Date: May 2017
Location: Western PA
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Real Name: Jon
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"Thanks for this fix TheDurk I have really never drilled through metal like this before. Does it require a special drill or bit? Any advice about the procedure is most welcome! "
To drill out the bolt. You will need a metal drill bits. Start with a small bit and slowly drill through the bolt in the center. Then increase the size to 3/8 as 10mm is just slightly larger then 3/8 inch so the next size up is mostly 7/16 which is the largest bit you should need.
Once, you have it drilled out you can decide what method for fixing your bolt. :-)
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7 3rd gens listed in the build thread (2 are parts mobiles)
Build Thread: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...os-builds.html
Brillo's Bucket Fluid Ex changer: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...ml#post3358086
Sparks Plugs Wire and Coil Information: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...on-5vz-fe.html
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05-03-2024, 11:53 AM
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#20
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Join Date: Nov 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brillo_76
"Thanks for this fix TheDurk I have really never drilled through metal like this before. Does it require a special drill or bit? Any advice about the procedure is most welcome! "
To drill out the bolt. You will need a metal drill bits. Start with a small bit and slowly drill through the bolt in the center. Then increase the size to 3/8 as 10mm is just slightly larger then 3/8 inch so the next size up is mostly 7/16 which is the largest bit you should need.
Once, you have it drilled out you can decide what method for fixing your bolt. :-)
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Yeah, that's it. You will probably need to hold the bolt head with Vise-Grips as the drill will make it want to spin. Truth is, if you get the other bolt out, and then lean back hard against the seat, it will probably pop out. Then you can get a Sawzall on it. This is probably the easiest way if it works.
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'99 4Runner SR5 5spd 3.4L V6 4WD(U.S), original '99 Talls in front, OME 906s in back, Hella fogs, Trekmaster shocks in front, Billy in back, no running boards, FIAMM horns, Alpine sound, Michelin LTX M/S2's, owned since new.
'97 HiLux SW4 5spd 4WD(Japan model bought in Brazil assembled in Argentina, very close to a 3.0 4Runner/Surf)
'71 FordWillys Jeep CJ5 (with straight six Ford Maverick 3.0 liter engine--lives in the mountains north of Sao Paulo Brazil)
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05-03-2024, 01:26 PM
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#21
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Elite Member
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDurk
Yeah, that's it. You will probably need to hold the bolt head with Vise-Grips as the drill will make it want to spin. Truth is, if you get the other bolt out, and then lean back hard against the seat, it will probably pop out. Then you can get a Sawzall on it. This is probably the easiest way if it works.
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Ah I forgot the vice grips. Thanks for the update TheDurk greatly appreciated. :-)
__________________
7 3rd gens listed in the build thread (2 are parts mobiles)
Build Thread: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...os-builds.html
Brillo's Bucket Fluid Ex changer: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...ml#post3358086
Sparks Plugs Wire and Coil Information: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...on-5vz-fe.html
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05-03-2024, 02:35 PM
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#22
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Stouchsburg PA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brillo_76
Ah I forgot the vice grips. Thanks for the update TheDurk greatly appreciated. :-)
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If you can get to it with a vice grips is the metal good enough to mig the bolt back into place?
The heat will probably allow you to back out the bolt.
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05-03-2024, 03:26 PM
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#23
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Elite Member
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 19963.4lsr5
If you can get to it with a vice grips is the metal good enough to mig the bolt back into place?
The heat will probably allow you to back out the bolt.
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Sometimes... Mostly they pull out but, I have seen the nut break loose in the back and you have to take the head off to get the but and reset of the bolt out. Lots of ways to fix this particular issue, so its up to the rig owner on how to fix it. Nothing wrong with mig if they want to go that route.
The metal bracket wasn't thick enough and there isn't any backing by the nut. If Toyota would have even welded a big washer in before the nut. These bolts and nuts wouldn't have had any issues. Slight design flaw. :-(
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7 3rd gens listed in the build thread (2 are parts mobiles)
Build Thread: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...os-builds.html
Brillo's Bucket Fluid Ex changer: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...ml#post3358086
Sparks Plugs Wire and Coil Information: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...on-5vz-fe.html
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05-04-2024, 07:00 PM
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#24
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Elite Member
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Join Date: Nov 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 19963.4lsr5
If you can get to it with a vice grips is the metal good enough to mig the bolt back into place?
The heat will probably allow you to back out the bolt.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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The Vise-grips go on the head of the bolt. To mig the thing, you would have to get underneath the seat leg where the weld nut and floor meet. That would take a lot of clearance. If the bolt did not back out at all before the nut broke free, it would be impossible.
So you have three choices: 1) Drill out the head of the bolt; 2) Manhandle the the nut through the hole in the floor and put a Vise-grip on it; or 3) Cut the bolt stem if you can get to it. This last was my case. I was able to get a few turns on the bolt before it locked up and the nut broke free. I was then able to get my Dremel cut-off wheel on the stem and cut the head free. A grinder might work, too.
I am open to more suggestions but I think they will all be variations on the above.
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'99 4Runner SR5 5spd 3.4L V6 4WD(U.S), original '99 Talls in front, OME 906s in back, Hella fogs, Trekmaster shocks in front, Billy in back, no running boards, FIAMM horns, Alpine sound, Michelin LTX M/S2's, owned since new.
'97 HiLux SW4 5spd 4WD(Japan model bought in Brazil assembled in Argentina, very close to a 3.0 4Runner/Surf)
'71 FordWillys Jeep CJ5 (with straight six Ford Maverick 3.0 liter engine--lives in the mountains north of Sao Paulo Brazil)
My Backyard Frame Swap
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