The sense I've been getting from the forum is, even if you don't necessarily see play in the lower ball joints, that you should replace them for peace of mind and safety in older, higher mileage trucks. I just bought a '99 with 205k on the original lower ball joints (and radiator), and I was thinking I'd just replace them. I've, of course, seen the pictures of catastrophic failures these parts can bring. This rig has never been offroaded before, and I will be changing that.

Just one last hail-mary to make sure I'm not wasting a few hundred dollars--the consensus is just replace the lower ball joints regardless, and with OEM?

I have heard to just replace them regardless when they go over 200K with the original ones (or sooner if they start squeaking). Strictly go OEM (DO NOT GET AFTERMARKET). Same with the radiator. Replace if its the original factory one to avoid Pink Milkshake (or Green Milkshake if you have green coolant).

That being said, my 2000 4Runner is (i think) still on it's original Lower Ball Joints, and Radiator with no issues. Some people push the ball joints to 300k with no issues (just regular driving). Thats too risky as it can snap at any moment and f*** up the fender and door.

Its insurance against a failure that could be catastrophic.

The original lower ball joints I took off at ~260k miles were still (likely) in good shape. Those were on it for mostly highway miles, but it did see plenty of dirt roads (no hard core offroading, just forest service roads). I still felt it was worth changing them out.

For the radiator - If the tanks are good and you have good evidence the coolant was changed regularly, your chance of pink milkshake is low. But likely you have no way of knowing previous maintenance history... And it is hard to see internal corrosion issues that cause the pink milkshake.

-Charlie

I just replaced my LBJs a couple weeks ago at 288k miles. I noticed no play when they were installed, but after I got them out, oh boy were they SHOT.. Very little (and very worn out) grease left inside and the joint flopped around with no resistance whatsoever. Pretty scary stuff.
The joints are about $100 each and with never having done it before, the job took me maybe 2.5 hours working alone. Most that time was trying to free the joints. Pretty easy job and a whole lot of insurance, just follow Tim's video
Yes, absolutely use only OEM LBJs.
I'd just replace the rad, as it's an even easier job and just as good insurance. Like it was said, you don't really know what's its been through or what the inside looks like. A flush could help give you an idea

It's not a waste of money. It's been a bit over a year since I did mine on a 193k mile, original owner (grandparents, on-road only, no accidents) truck and they were Trashed, rusty and dang near failure. Due to the design, they can't be checked like "normal" ball joints (can only be checked with a load on them).




There was ZERO indication these were bad while on the vehicle, boot tears were in the "fold" and nearly impossible to find (even when specifically looking).

Spend the money, replace the 4 connecting bolts on each side too (also a source of failure when re-used), be confident that it's not an issue till you start doing aggressive off-roading.

I always had the Theory that when people start modifying they increase the wear and tear on the ball joints. With lifts and oversized tires cause extra stress and wear due to the design flaws in the 3rd gen front ends.

These flaws cant be fixed. So when you start majorly modifying it be best to really watch your ball joints. With replacement schedule way more frequent then normal.


Ball joints cant last forever. I have even seen a Honda accord snap a lower joint with over 300k on the clock. It littery just snapped the ball clean off.

So I am thinking that for heavily modified 3rd gens. I would change the lower ball joints every 50k and the uppers every 100k.

With standard suspension and standard tires size. I would change the lowers every 100k and uppers every 200k.

All mine in my fleet were original when I got the rigs. My Tetanus 1 had 215k my lowers when changed

Basically if your rig has originals upper and lowers at over 300k miles. You are asking for failures.

Some may change upper and lowers together which is up to them. ;)

Some folks may disagree with my theory and that's fine. Just my opinion and thoughts on the matter.







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Heed the advice given here. I learned this lesson the hard way before I knew it was even a thing. Catastrophic failure. Thankfully I was only traveling about 30MPH on a local street. At highway speeds it would have likely been deadly.

Likes been said cheap insurance.
96Red 280k or so, felt decent boots good, that long again nope.
01 Runner 198k when I bought it, will start checking 50 k mi or so.

They tend to fail when you are making a fairly sharp right or left hand turn. I saw a Tacoma that had one fail earlier this year. Beautiful pristine red Tacoma, probably a 2004 or 2005 and the driver's side wheel and hub had snapped off and left it stranded in the right hand lane. It was a very well maintained truck by the looks of it but they neglected the LBJ's.

Thanks guys. The commentary, advice, and second opinions are appreciated. I'm having my trusted local guy do them--I'm not going to be doing every last thing on this truck myself. Local dealer wants $159 each for the LBJ's.

The only abuse I'm planning for the suspension beyond stock is going up from 265/70R16 tires to 265/75R16. From 30.6" to 31.6" diameter. That with the factory rear locker is capability enough for me.

The radiator is original, and I don't have records the coolant was ever replaced. That'll be the number two item, I'll do it myself.

Timing belt was apparently replaced at 75k according to a sticker on the cover. I popped the bolts and took a peek, looks good for now. I'll consider it next year; the risk/reward of delaying that feels much better with a non-interference engine.

At least the coolant been changed one time.

Good move. Replace the 4x bolts with each lower ball joint too. I suggest you provide your mechanic with the torque specs too and emphasize that you want them torqued properly. Bad mechanics will just tighten them an impact driver which overstretches them and can result in them snapping.

@gamefreakgc , I don't get that either, for a month's payment no worries vs total loss.
You'd be surprised at number of people that don't know of this issue or Tacoma LBJ's and frame.
Year or so ago at Lowes mentioned this to 3rd Genner in passing, hadn't heard of problem.
20 min later I'm leaving, see the dude and runner RF wheel where it ain't supposed to be in Lowes parking lot.
I stopped by, dude was shook bad 3 blocks away from 70 mph.

I bypassed the radiator transmission cooler and put on an aftermarket one in front. It doesn't have as much cooling power but I don't have to worry about the milkshake. I monitor the temps on my scangauge and the high temp happens when you are crawling up a hill in the heat since there is little air flow. But just put it in low and hit the ECT button which seems to help it stay down. Keep in mind this is Canada, not Arizona heat.