11-25-2020, 02:17 AM
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#1
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Best options for routing wires through firewall
New to automotive wiring and have been reading some posts but I've noticed a couple of different methods of getting the wires into the passenger compartment. I was reading one build thread and they used a Daystar firewall boot so I ordered the boot and 1 1/4 hole saw from amazon.
Then I noticed a couple of people using what looks like a weatherpack bulkhead kit ( Amazon.com: Weather Pack Bulkhead Kit 22-pin 16-14 Ga.: Automotive)
Is one method superior to the other? The weatherpack route certainly looks like a lot more work than just putting wire loom over the harness and running it through the daystar boot.
If it matters, I'm planning on running ~ 12 wires, mostly 16 ga from relays in the engine bay to switches inside, most of which will be @ the radio location.
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11-25-2020, 09:13 AM
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#2
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I used the existing boot that is next to brake booster on the drivers side to run my amp wires and a few other ones. I used a utility knife and added a small slit in the boot and fed the wires through it there, no issues.
I wouldn't be a fan of drilling through the firewall to add a boot unless I was adding so many wires that I couldn't use an existing one.
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11-25-2020, 09:49 AM
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#3
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Just say no to the hole saw. It belongs in the plumbing section.
As mentioned above, that existing hole is where the clutch would be in a manual I believe.
There is also a very nice existing grommet for use above the gas pedal that us 5 speed folks can use. Either one is adequate for what you are doing.
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11-25-2020, 10:30 AM
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#4
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I would go through the engine harness route. As it's easy to get to and not in that water zone on the driver side. Water runs through the drivers side area big time. Hence why people poking holes through the boot for wires for amps etc end up creating a chanel for water to run through to your drivers floor kick panel etc.
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11-25-2020, 11:18 AM
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#5
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Going back to the other thread you created, I think you are making this more difficult by not using the driver side. Moving brackets and cutting holes is not something I would do, but again, we all modify our rigs differently.
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11-25-2020, 03:40 PM
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#6
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Man I was about to make a thread for this. Seems like such a pain compared to the 2nd gen tacomas.
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11-25-2020, 05:35 PM
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#7
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As others said, on the driver side you can use the existing hole for the clutch pedal, along with the Daystar grommet -
Here is a view from under the dash, it's the one with one large and some small wires running through it:
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11-25-2020, 06:54 PM
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#8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brillo_76
I would go through the engine harness route. As it's easy to get to and not in that water zone on the driver side. Water runs through the drivers side area big time. Hence why people poking holes through the boot for wires for amps etc end up creating a chanel for water to run through to your drivers floor kick panel etc.
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Sorry to be dense, but is the attached picture the harness you are referring to?
Quote:
Originally Posted by cblock406
Going back to the other thread you created, I think you are making this more difficult by not using the driver side. Moving brackets and cutting holes is not something I would do, but again, we all modify our rigs differently.
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haha, well, I actually tried your way again, ordered a sheet of plexiglass, a bunch of new high-current weatherproof relays from Fastronix, and a few other odds and ends but I can't see how to get blue sea box plus the relays plus the breaker onto the plexiglass and still be able to both close the hood and access all of the things on the driver's side of the engine bay. I think I could get just the bluesea box there but my endgame for wiring is going to require more than just that box and I'm not a fan of sticking the relays to the firewall. At least I gave it the old college try and have decided to keep the new relays, but I'm 99% sure the mount is going on the passenger side.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4Runner4Leon
As others said, on the driver side you can use the existing hole for the clutch pedal, along with the Daystar grommet -
Here is a view from under the dash, it's the one with one large and some small wires running through it:
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Thanks, that's what I've seen in several build threads and I've already got the boot. Where approximately is that located in the engine bay side?
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11-25-2020, 07:20 PM
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#9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4Runner4Leon
As others said, on the driver side you can use the existing hole for the clutch pedal, along with the Daystar grommet -
Here is a view from under the dash, it's the one with one large and some small wires running through it:
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Maybe I am blind, but where is this hole on the other side? (In the engine bay)
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11-25-2020, 07:29 PM
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#10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jross20
Maybe I am blind, but where is this hole on the other side? (In the engine bay)
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About midway between the existing wire grommet and the brake booster:
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11-25-2020, 07:50 PM
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#11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4Runner4Leon
About midway between the existing wire grommet and the brake booster:
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Er... maybe I had one too many last night, but I am 90% sure there is no hole there on mine.
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11-25-2020, 08:42 PM
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#12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jross20
Er... maybe I had one too many last night, but I am 90% sure there is no hole there on mine.
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Oops, my bad - the hole was not there, I drilled it with a hole saw. There is a flat area where the clutch pedal would go, and the sound insulation is perforated there, so it makes for a nice installation. But you do need to drill the hole .
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11-25-2020, 09:48 PM
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#13
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There is an existing hole above the gas pedal with a factory rubber plug in it. Can’t see it from inside due to the padding. It’s a nice spot for wiring on a 3rz but on the v6 it might be difficult to access, I’ve never looked.
That daystar universal grommet is pretty great.
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-1996 4Runner. 3RZ 5-Spd. 4x4 Base model. OME2906/Toyota OEM rears with 2004 Tacoma Dual Rate Fronts on Bilstien 4600s.
-1993 Corolla Wagon 7AFE
-2001 Echo D.D.
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11-25-2020, 10:10 PM
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#14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4Runner4Leon
Oops, my bad - the hole was not there, I drilled it with a hole saw. There is a flat area where the clutch pedal would go, and the sound insulation is perforated there, so it makes for a nice installation. But you do need to drill the hole .
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Did you drill the hole from the inside to the engine bay?
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11-26-2020, 01:01 AM
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#15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jross20
Er... maybe I had one too many last night, but I am 90% sure there is no hole there on mine.
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Ironically I got a hole but no boot! Learn something new every day
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