I'm guessing you have an 01 or 02 model. The transmissions in these rigs are known to have an Overdrive Planetary Gear Bearing failure. When you drop the pan, you're going to see a whole lot of metal debris. ...
Mine, at 330k now, use to whine (only loud enough i would notice it with no radio on), so i dropped pan, found lots and lots of metal debris as you said above, replaced filter and added back valvoline full synth import atf.
No real reduction of whine noise for quite a while, maybe 5000 miles, then it slowly began to quite down, not gone but down about 80-90%. It otherwise function perfectly, smooth yet firm shifts up (only the 1-2 is firm) and smooth down, downshifts appropriately at highway speeds if throttle is dropped and OD works smoothly too. Mechanics say to just keep driving it, they think its OK, it worries me on a longer 1-2 hour trip to deer camp.
I'm sure its still gonna blow, some day. Yet after reading this thread, I've decided to go the dealer rebuilt route, have a buddy in parts so I'll at least get the 20% mechanic discount and take it to a trusted mechanic to swap out.
There I can sleep better now....
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2001 Limited 4WD - 350+K - SunfireRed\Thunder Cloud; - 265/75/16 Michelin A/T2s - Fat Pat's 1.5" BL - StopTech ANGLED rotors - In series 699 trans cooler, New Yota1 transmission, All new OEM suspension front to rear.
If I wasn't planning on keeping my 4runner I wouldn't have a problem getting a used transmission but if I'm keeping it then the factory rebuilt trans sounds like a safer option. I don't like the idea of putting a used transmission with an unknown history into a vehicle I plan on keeping. It wasn't a hard job to do but not something I would want to risk repeating multiple times.
If I had access to a used transmission with a known history that was taken care of and the price was right then I wouldn't have a problem going the used route.
__________________ 1. Black 2002 SR5 4x4 5vz:Front Toytec Ultimate coilovers/eibach 600#, SPC UCA, durobumps Rear Bil5100/Superflex, SS adjustable panhard, PCK, durobumps Body Lift 2" 4crawler Tires 315/75/16 BFG KO2 Wheels SCS F5 Matte black 16x8 3.5bs Armor Custom bolt on rock sliders (no frame drilling) 2. Black 2001 SR5 4x4 5vz: stock 3. Black 2018 TRD Pro (wife’s):Armor Custom bolt on rock sliders (U-bolts)
I called the salvage yard today and told them the issue - they asked for side by side pics, which I sent over. They then actually called the transmission shop and discussed what they think might be a workable solution. They're going to send a new transfer case to the shop and hope they can get it all put back together...didn't quite make sense to me, but both of them thought it should work and didn't ask me for any more money, sooooo fingers crossed.
Location: north east of Fairbank out there in the frontiers Alaska
Posts: 3,269
Real Name: 3 Bears
Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbtim
I
I'm guessing you have an 01 or 02 model. The transmissions in these rigs are known to have an Overdrive Planetary Gear Bearing failure. When you drop the pan, you're going to see a whole lot of metal debris.
great, just another reason im back in the hunt for another 99 or 2000. No tranny issues now, but its got other issues. 97 5 speed with locker just came up for sale.....but rusted and 200 miles away.....( update..sold in 3 hours)
sorry TurkVU not trying to hijack your problem, reading along to learn. Good luck with your fix
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2000 SR-5 Highlander version 4:30's, factory locker , green, bought 6/21
2001 SR-5... bought 11/20..sold 6/21....
2000 SR-5 moded, lifted, e locker, other cool stuff, totaled 10/20
2002 tundra ac v8 4wd
1969 kharmann ghia
Got the call from the shop on Tuesday morning, they were taking it out for a test drive! Picked the old girl up Tuesday evening, gave her a welcome home bath yesterday and drove around a bit - all seems to be in solid working order, the transmission hasn't felt so firm in years.
Thanks all here for the helpful comments and advice!
Replying to this older thread since I'm new here and am not allow to post my own new thread yet!
I’ve had my ‘00 (Sr5 2wd auto trans) since 2005 and it has 305k on it. It’s been great and is still my daily driver, it’s like an old buddy haha
I’ve had the trans flushed twice over the years. About a month ago the 3rd shift hesitated and slammed into gear. Had never done that before. After I noticed a low whine when it got into the 3rd shift (usually around 35-40mph in normal driving). Fluid looked fine. The hard shift didn’t occur again for about 2 weeks and that day it happen happened a few times.
Took it to a local import shop and they said can’t do much now unless I want to have the trans rebuilt for around $3500. They didn’t drop the pan or inspect much. They did say the throttle cable was loose and tightened up.
The whine has become a bit worse after the 3rd shift point.
I did some searching and it seems could be the planetary gears or torque converter? Is there a chance once of the shift solenoids is going bad and that could be replaced to save a full trans replacement or rebuild?
Any advice or just keep driving it till it become hard or unsafe to drive?
Replying to this older thread since I'm new here and am not allow to post my own new thread yet!
I’ve had my ‘00 (Sr5 2wd auto trans) since 2005 and it has 305k on it. It’s been great and is still my daily driver, it’s like an old buddy haha
I’ve had the trans flushed twice over the years. About a month ago the 3rd shift hesitated and slammed into gear. Had never done that before. After I noticed a low whine when it got into the 3rd shift (usually around 35-40mph in normal driving). Fluid looked fine. The hard shift didn’t occur again for about 2 weeks and that day it happen happened a few times.
Took it to a local import shop and they said can’t do much now unless I want to have the trans rebuilt for around $3500. They didn’t drop the pan or inspect much. They did say the throttle cable was loose and tightened up.
The whine has become a bit worse after the 3rd shift point.
I did some searching and it seems could be the planetary gears or torque converter? Is there a chance once of the shift solenoids is going bad and that could be replaced to save a full trans replacement or rebuild?
Any advice or just keep driving it till it become hard or unsafe to drive?
Thanks!
Keep driving it as there's little risk of it leaving you stranded. If it is indeed a transmission failure it'll just start to shift worse and worse until it doesn't shift at all. You will know when you get to that point.
I would not bother trying a torque converter replacement as if it were the TC you would have problem in every RPM range not just 3rd gear. My TC failed along with the transmission last year and the symptoms were not what you describe. Plus it's the exact same amount of work and labor to replace the torque converter as it is the entire transmission. If you are DIY'er, I was able to source a $600 transmission with 183K miles on it and install it myself along with fluids, filters and seals for just over $1200. That included buying a transmission jack which is necessary for the job.
To comment on the shift solenoid, they are a simple ON/OFF switch. If they fail and don't turn on it throws a code.
Yes, lots of videos oyr there for changing transmissions. I already changed an engine and transmission in one. It's not horrible it just takes time. I am sure you can do it.
Just make sure when changing the TC and transmission. That TC is fully in before putting the bell housing bolts in. Verify that the flex plate can move independently from the TC.
After a bunch of research, posts, searching, and throwing hundreds at repairs that didn't remedy my issue I've come to the conclusion my overdrive planetary gear is going bad. Loud chatter when in overdrive between 30-40mph. No vibrations, just a light metal chattering sound that goes away as soon as the trans downshifts or I disengage OD. Fluid was flushed a year and a half ago and still appears clean and glitter free (though I haven't dropped the pan)
My question is: has anyone had experience with these reman'd transmissions?
Seems like a decent build, cheaper than the dealer remans and maybe a little more peace of mind than a junkyard pull. I'm aware I'd have to confirm compatibility with the 02' and its specifics, which I have not done (so maybe this is a moot post!)
So right now its basically between saving up for this reman'd unit or scouring for low mileage '01-'02 junkyard pulls.
Kind of wish I'd realized what the problem was sooner rather than dropping close to a grand on other things (loads of bushings, new CV's, lbj's, tie rods, ecgs bushing, etc) but theres some solace in knowing that stuff is sorted.
I know basically everyone swears by low-er mileage junkyard pulls, just want to see if anyone has gone this other route. The route between the junkyard and the dealership, if you will