06-14-2021, 02:35 PM
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#1
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Member
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Alpine, UT
Posts: 31
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Alpine, UT
Posts: 31
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Proper rack for large kayak / canoe
The high-level requirement: Tote an 18' tandem touring kayak on the roof, including down some rough roads. Total weight of boat is about 90 pounds.
The rig: 1999 SR5 4wd 5-speed with a very mild lift and factory roof rack with factory cross bars.
The question: In some research, I've found that the suggested method is to (A) replace the factory roof rack cross bars with something sturdier from Yakima or Thule, and (B) Get an additional Q-Tower (inserts into front door?) set up on the front doors, then (C) either strap the boat upside down onto padded rails or use a designated carriage to hold it right side up on the roof.
Does anybody do anything similar that can share how they accomplished it? Hitting the Yakima and Thule web sites, they seem to be pretty limited in indicating what works best with what vehicle application.
Thoughts and suggestions would welcome.
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06-14-2021, 03:32 PM
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#2
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Member
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Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Vista, CA
Posts: 472
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Vista, CA
Posts: 472
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryandc
The high-level requirement: Tote an 18' tandem touring kayak on the roof, including down some rough roads. Total weight of boat is about 90 pounds.
The rig: 1999 SR5 4wd 5-speed with a very mild lift and factory roof rack with factory cross bars.
The question: In some research, I've found that the suggested method is to (A) replace the factory roof rack cross bars with something sturdier from Yakima or Thule, and (B) Get an additional Q-Tower (inserts into front door?) set up on the front doors, then (C) either strap the boat upside down onto padded rails or use a designated carriage to hold it right side up on the roof.
Does anybody do anything similar that can share how they accomplished it? Hitting the Yakima and Thule web sites, they seem to be pretty limited in indicating what works best with what vehicle application.
Thoughts and suggestions would welcome.
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I did a trip to Baja a couple of years ago carrying a ~75lb tandem kayak directly on factory cross bars, just used straps to tie everything down. Other than the drag which was incredibly strong at highway speeds (especially in windy Baja), the roof had no issue holding everything.
As long as you have good tie downs / mounting system, I don't see why you couldn't use the factory cross bars.
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1999 4Runner Limited - 5VZ, 4wd, Factory E-Locker, Multi-Mode, 5-speed swap, Armored, Icons, 295s ( thread)
2001 Tacoma Xtracab - 3RZ, 4wd, 5-speed (Daily Driver)
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06-14-2021, 05:00 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Yukon
Posts: 1,317
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Yukon
Posts: 1,317
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I often carry our 17.5 canoe around. I find the factory cross bars to be a little weak and narrow for the application. I now have a set of Thule bars that bolt into the factory roof rails, they are very sturdy.
The roof rails are pretty short for a large boat like yours. I’d look into the front rail also solutions. My buddy had this set up on his second gen years back.
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-1996 4Runner. 3RZ 5-Spd. 4x4 Base model. OME2906/Toyota OEM rears with 2004 Tacoma Dual Rate Fronts on Bilstien 4600s.
-1993 Corolla Wagon 7AFE
-2001 Echo D.D.
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06-14-2021, 06:56 PM
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#4
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Member
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Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Bend
Posts: 670
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Bend
Posts: 670
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A single Yakima Baseline (essentially the updated Q Tower) tower/crossbar on the bare roof and a single Skyline tower/bar in the OEM track would be great for keeping the canoe better centered on the roof.
The Baseline should really stay put where the instructions indicate, but the Skyline can move anywhere in the track to fine-tune the boat's position. That should be suitable for about 165lbs. dynamic load.
I only mention Yakima kits because they offer their Baseclips and Landing Pads per bar - unlike Thule, who supplies full fitkits regardless of tower style or location.
And use your bow & stern straps!
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Build Etc...
If it ain't broke, fix it 'til it is.
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06-20-2021, 12:38 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Long I$land New York
Age: 59
Posts: 1,161
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Long I$land New York
Age: 59
Posts: 1,161
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I had to re do my Thule system because i like to keep my Bike, kayak, and Thule rod carrier up there. The Bars are a tad long for the runner and look goofy but i had no choice.. I would show photos.... but I'm not going through all of that. PM me and i'll share through Email if interested..
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Magnaflow, Rigid D Series 4" 50231/Rigid E Series 20" 12231 LED Bar ,K&N FIPK,3"Toytec ultimate, OEM 231MM brake upgrade, LED Interior upgrade,Bushwackers,Savage Rock Rails,Shock works front bumper,PERKINS NON PERFORMANCE REAR BUMPER 33'Duratracs,Kenwood DNX891HD JL Audio C5's
Currently 194K
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06-20-2021, 01:02 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Long I$land New York
Age: 59
Posts: 1,161
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Long I$land New York
Age: 59
Posts: 1,161
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ReconcileUs
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Dude,
That Rack is waay damn cool! is it capable of kayak,bike,fishing Thule racks?
The nearest proper wheeling place from me is 200 mi away- I wish i could justify that.
__________________
Magnaflow, Rigid D Series 4" 50231/Rigid E Series 20" 12231 LED Bar ,K&N FIPK,3"Toytec ultimate, OEM 231MM brake upgrade, LED Interior upgrade,Bushwackers,Savage Rock Rails,Shock works front bumper,PERKINS NON PERFORMANCE REAR BUMPER 33'Duratracs,Kenwood DNX891HD JL Audio C5's
Currently 194K
Cheers
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