2002 4runner hard to back out of a downhill parking

Doctorman

New member
When I try to back out of my downhill driveway from parked position I have to hold the brake till the last second and then push the accelerator fast and hard to get out without rolling down the driveway,
is that normal for 2002 4runner ?

my car has the manual gear and the automatic gear, never used the manual gear.

poorly maintained 300k+ that ended up in my hand, deciding to spend money and time on it or sell and move on, as long as the engine , transmission are okay for a while

the car has recently got new break pads, alternator, AC compressor and dryer, all belts changed

needs new shocks, probably all fluids need to be refreshed brake fluid, power steering fluid, maybe transmission fluid, ABS sensor on both right side are giving error, and the voltage of the car is not clean and constant, the lights dim up and down.
the good: it drives and it is air conditioned

anyway wanted to know if the this is a transmission issue or is that normal for this car.. could this be the issue with ABS being off ?
I am used to a prius which when it is in rear gear, I don't need to hold the brake even and jumps with a touch of accelerator...
 
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When I try to back out of my downhill driveway from parked position I have to hold the brake till the last second and then push the accelerator fast and hard to get out without rolling down the driveway,
is that normal for 2002 4runner ?

my car has the manual gear and the automatic gear, never used the manual gear.

poorly maintained 300k+ that ended up in my hand, deciding to spend money and time on it or sell and move on, as long as the engine , transmission are okay for a while

the car has recently got new break pads, alternator, AC compressor and dryer, all belts changed

needs new shocks, probably all fluids need to be refreshed brake fluid, power steering fluid, maybe transmission fluid, ABS sensor on both right side are giving error, and the voltage of the car is not clean and constant, the lights dim up and down.
the good: it drives and it is air conditioned

anyway wanted to know if the this is a transmission issue or is that normal for this car.. could this be the issue with ABS being off ?
I am used to a prius which when it is in rear gear, I don't need to hold the brake even and jumps with a touch of accelerator...
Normal operation for an incline or decline with any automatic vehicle
 
I really hope you are joking about the transfer case shifter. If you aren't joking I really REALLY hope you aren't an actual doctor. If by some chance you aren't joking and you are a doctor please never see another patient again for the rest of your life.

Sorry, this is a car left from a family member that just passed away, it has some sentimental value to the person who drives it now, I just started to learn about this car. I enjoy fixing things so tried to help with the car on my time off.
so yeah I wondered what that shifter was and I learned in an embarrassing public forum... lol
and no I will not stop because of this... ego stops people from learning.

Really appreciate the info
 
Thank you

so I should go ahead with a transmission fluid change?

I would only change it if the condition of the fluid isn't black looking/burnt smelling. If it's brown looking I wouldn't stress about it and perform a drain and fill - better yet drain the fluid and remove the transmission pan to change the filter and gasket.
 
Edit: never gave my 2 cents, oops lol
I would say it's normal for these cars, I know exactly what you're talking about. My 4Runner LOVES to roll the second there is ANY sort of incline/decline - far, FAR more than any other vehicle I've driven, though it's apparent in most vehicles just to a greater or lesser degree. My old Dakota (also a 2000) could idle in place on certain hills my 4Runner will plummet backwards on without any hesitation. Gotta dance the pedals very frequently around here
I really hope you are joking about the transfer case shifter. If you aren't joking I really REALLY hope you aren't an actual doctor. If by some chance you aren't joking and you are a doctor please never see another patient again for the rest of your life.

Don't be too surprised, I know a doctor that's spent the last 30 years across multiple different fields and he it took him 4 hours and a couple holes in the wall to realize he doesnt know how to mount a microwave :rofl:
 
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Have you tried backing down to park so you have lower gears to use on the way up and out? I don't think what you describe is necessarily a fault with the truck. How steep is this driveway?

I also ask plenty of dumbass questions.
 
I would recommend a quality OBD2 reader like OBDLink MX+.
OBD is onboard diagnostics that can read and clear codes when your check engine light comes on as well as monitor things like coolant temperature and transmission temperature and a bazillion other things.

With mine, I was able to see problems with transmission temps that would have killed my transmission by now if I hadn’t taken corrective action.

Worth
Every
Penny
 
Have you tried backing down to park so you have lower gears to use on the way up and out? I don't think what you describe is necessarily a fault with the truck. How steep is this driveway?

I also ask plenty of dumbass questions.

45degree or so

generally harder to back in, due to the street traffic.
 
I would only change it if the condition of the fluid isn't black looking/burnt smelling. If it's brown looking I wouldn't stress about it and perform a drain and fill - better yet drain the fluid and remove the transmission pan to change the filter and gasket.

the only reason I am concerned about changing the trans fluid is if the clutches are already worn out to the point that the only thing holding them is the thick old ATF, once I change it with new ATF clean and particle-free I am afraid I increae the chance of clutch slippage ... I got that education on youtube scotty lol now would that apply to this car?
 
the only reason I am concerned about changing the trans fluid is if the clutches are already worn out to the point that the only thing holding them is the thick old ATF, once I change it with new ATF clean and particle-free I am afraid I increae the chance of clutch slippage ... I got that education on youtube scotty lol now would that apply to this car?

eh, not sure. There's a transmission fluid dipstick in the engine bay. Check the color and smell from there. If the tranny is noticeably acting up, don't change it (especially if it's burnt fluid).
 
45degree or so

generally harder to back in, due to the street traffic.


45 degrees?! This is getting stranger and stranger. I don't blame any 20 year old truck for having trouble launching in reverse on a slope like that. I admire whoever got a building permit for a driveway that steep! If the ATF isn't low or bubbly or burnt, I would go against what I believe in and pay a professional mechanic to give the rig an hour of diagnostic attention so you know where you stand before throwing parts and fluids at it.....just my .02
 
the only reason I am concerned about changing the trans fluid is if the clutches are already worn out to the point that the only thing holding them is the thick old ATF, once I change it with new ATF clean and particle-free I am afraid I increae the chance of clutch slippage ... I got that education on youtube scotty lol now would that apply to this car?

This is a complete and total myth, and it's absolutely silly to imply that dirty old fluid that has lost most it's hydroscopic properties and has become noticeably thickened from all the abrasive particulate suspended within is somehow better for your trans than fresh, new fluid that's free of debris. If that was true we would just recycle ATF indefinitely and never change it out.
45 degrees?! This is getting stranger and stranger. I don't blame any 20 year old truck for having trouble launching in reverse on a slope like that. I admire whoever got a building permit for a driveway that steep! If the ATF isn't low or bubbly or burnt, I would go against what I believe in and pay a professional mechanic to give the rig an hour of diagnostic attention so you know where you stand before throwing parts and fluids at it.....just my .02

I highly doubt it's anywhere near 45* - maybe a 45% gradient, but not 45 degrees. That's a 100% gradient.
 
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This is a complete and total myth, and it's absolutely silly to imply that dirty old fluid that has lost most it's hydroscopic properties and has become noticeably thickened from all the abrasive particulate suspended within is somehow better for your trans than fresh, new fluid that's free of debris. If that was true we would just recycle ATF indefinitely and never change it out.


I highly doubt it's anywhere near 45* - maybe a 45% gradient, but not 45 degrees. That's a 100% gradient.

I'm going to agree with Devbot here. A couple of drain and fills aren't going to hurt anything.
 

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