Price is a big factor. I bought my CS144 for $140. Most DENSO high output alternators are $300+.

The other part is idle amps. The CS144 puts out way more amps at idle than the stock alternator. Many modified high-amp DENSO units put out the same amps at the stock unit at idle and are stated so by the companies.

You can do the pully mod as some members have done. Which will correct the idle no charge issues.

I just get a remfg or one out of the junk yard to rebuild...

Granted, most wouldn't do this. It's only an option.

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I was only able to increase my 600rpm output by about 5a. It suites me though because I can now have my lights on with fogs and my heater on speed two or so and still maintain around 14v. LED brake lights helped free up some amps also.

I could always turn off my fogs because they pull 12a when on.


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Winching CS144 Idle output shines and why I swapped, Big3 came later.
OE Heat output ALT would start to whine on a long pull, pulley swap not much better.
Haven't done 01 yet, CS144 Big3 hands down 1 n done.

Edit: Takes care of headlights thumping to the Bass

All the high-amp Denso options use a larger body than fits on the 5vz. There is a 100 (or is it 110?) option from a Suzuki Grand Vitara that is a nearly bolt-on (drill one hole larger), but that's it.

-Charlie

I’ve seen this looking for smaller pulleys for my Alt to speed it up. Was wondering how close it was to fitting out of the box.


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CS144 upgrade is now complete. Scangauge shows 14.6v-14.8v and cigartette lighter shows 14.4v. The swap was relatively painless, bolts are easy to get to and had already done the big-3 a while back.

For those that want to use the pre-existing alternator belt, pulling the top bolt almost all the way out and removing the dipstick tube bolt allows extra movement of the alternator, just enough to be able to slip the belt on.

I ended up using 5 washers for the gap and placed a rag in back of spacers during install so they don't slip past the hole and fall who knows where.

The old alternator was LActrical high output 140 amp that I had purchased back in 2017; it still worked good, except the pulley bearings had started to make noise in cold weather.

When I did the CS144 a few years back, I got one new for 100 bucks. It's been on for a few years now and has been great. All I have extra installed are 2 amps for the stereo system, but my headlights dont dim at all anymore. Im happy, install was simple too. It's a good upgrade.

Update: the alternator's been performing pretty consistent; it's charging the battery properly and when it's hot out I'm getting 14.4V and when cooler, 14.7V which is normal I think.

Anyway today, I replaced my comms equipment in my truck and thought I would test the alternator by putting some load on it. This is at idle, so I don't know how many amps the alternator is actually putting out below 1K RPM's.

When I key up my 10-meter radio at full 200W PEP, the scangauge momentarily shows voltage drooping to 13V before going back up to 14.4V and staying there. Same thing happens when the front windows are rolling down on auto mode and when they bottom out, it momentarily puts a load on alternator and the voltage droops to 13V then goes back up to 14.4V.

Now, I've seen this droop happen before with my OEM and the old alternator I just replaced too, but not to this extent, this is extreme. Anyone notice anything similar and/or know what might be causing this? My 1st thought was the belt must be slipping but that would make noise?

Like I mentioned, it's only a momentary droop and goes right back up to proper voltage but I'd sure like to get to the bottom of it.

Someone might correct me if I've got this wrong, but I believe those readings are correct. The alternator will increase load if voltage drops but it is not instantaneous. If the voltage drops down and stays down is when there is a problem.

I performed some more tests this morning. When the vehicle is in park @ 750RPM's and under load, the voltage drops momentarily before going back up to 14.5v.

When the vehicle is in gear and idling @ 550RPM's and under load, the voltage drops but then only goes back up to 13.6v and stays there until I increase the rpm's just a touch, to 650RPM's and at that point the voltage goes back up to 14.5v.

Is this normal operation? Does CS144 need 650RPM's minimum to produce juice at normal capacity under load? Check my wiring and tighten the belt a bit more maybe? How about tightening the throttle cable some so it idles a tad bit higher, not allowing it to go below 650RPM's when in gear?

13.6V is still totally acceptable for a vehicle. That won't charge the battery (unless it is really hot), but that's fine - it also isn't discharging the battery.

A momentary drop with increased load is also normal - the regulator responds fairly slowly, at least in every vehicle I've ever owned.

-Charlie

Plus the IAC has to respond to the extra load also.

Everything but my cummins acts this way. It’s normal.


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Edit 2: Denso P/N 021080-0140 confirmed to work with 17mm shaft size pulleys.

Edit: Denso P/N 021080-0140 get some good leads for the 150 amp alt. Trying to find out the idle amps for the unit. Will update if I get one...

Looks like there are a few Denso options:

2 other alternator options for our 1st gen tacoma's with 5VZ-FE's | Tacoma World

I looked around for the 150 amp version, seems hard to find a Denso made alt.

Leaning toward a DENSO 2105185 for the CS144 install.

I remember running across this info a while ago.

It will be interesting to see what amps that 150a unit will push idling at 600rpm.

I put a smaller pulley on my 70a Alt and got an extra 4a to 5a out of it at 600rpm. I can now push 44-45 amps instead of 39-41 amps at 600.


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