I welded mine with a Millermatic 130a 120v. but would love a 220v big boy.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm intrigued. I'll keep this in mind for when I need to redo the rear suspension...

If you can you want to upgrade to 220-240v migs.. Makes welding on these frames easier.. :-)

I may do this i haven't decided yet as I am at that point with one of mine..

This ^^^
110 will suffice, but it's a little tricky and a pain in the ass for those just learning. 220 will service you much better. They can do everything 110 can and more
You can always rent a welder too, some suppliers are dirt cheap. My work rents a Dynasty 800 from Central Welding Supply cause it's wayyy cheaper than buying - you can rent it for 4 years straight and STILL be below its purchase price

Snowbound customs makes them also and are cheeper and just as good.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’d love to get a big boy welder one day when I have the electric for it.

But I don’t see how a 220v would make it easier for the thickness I was welding…….

Clean the metal, volume to “11” (highest heat range) and dial in the feed rate tacking it in position. Then burn it in…….


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm curious about the shock geometry differences between the two with one being mounted well above the frame, and the other on the frame.

They have info about their mounts on their site. I think instagram only. I’m happy with mine and they look similar to how I would have made them.

The tube stile may be just for show or for longer length shocks.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I welded with both 110 and 240. It's the higher amperage that helps. The higher amps and weld controllers that help with rusty metal that can't easily be cleaned because of location or nothing left.

For example, some brackets are heavily curved and contours that can't easily be replicated or replaced. So you litterly have to mold and melt what's left with the new weld to make your piece.


My old generic 110v really didn't have enough output amps to weld 1/8 plate into good metal to repair things effectively.

So I went to a Lincoln mp210, which has newer models out now that do all my welding needs. I also only use Lincoln wire, which for me works the best.

Most folks suggest using Flux core wire wire on rusty oxidized metal, too. You can, and it will work. However, I only weld it with shield gas now because I get better metal penitration with it. Along with a lot less welding splatter.

This is just me, though. I also welded probably 4 or 6 frames now with various methods. All dell different angles with even welding upside down.

My preferred method is still internal frame plating. However, those safety caps do work well, provided you get the inside of the frame cleaned out and rust treated before sealing in.



Sent from my SM-A536V using Tapatalk

I did learn my lesson years ago about using generic 120v migs. I happened upon my Miller at the local bar. The bartender had it and said it was broke and gave it to me. I gave him 90 for it after I fixed it and got the cart for it. I use gas and have the big bottle. The small bottle only lasts 45 minutes of welding.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Isn't it night and day generic vs brand name with heavy duty cycles...

Sent from my SM-A536V using Tapatalk

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey I noticed you were in New Jersey. Back in July I had Garden State Auto Repair replace both of my rusted out rear upper shock mounts. They cut the old ones out and welded in the new OEM replacements that I bought and brought to them. The gas tank did not have to be removed either. They did a really good job and it only took them two days to do it. They also undercoated the rear of the 4runner with Woolwax so they should be protected for another 22+ years.

They charged $1800+ tax for all of it. Very pleased with the work.

Which one as there are a few Garden State Auto Repair in NJ.