I welded with both 110 and 240. It's the higher amperage that helps. The higher amps and weld controllers that help with rusty metal that can't easily be cleaned because of location or nothing left.
For example, some brackets are heavily curved and contours that can't easily be replicated or replaced. So you litterly have to mold and melt what's left with the new weld to make your piece.
My old generic 110v really didn't have enough output amps to weld 1/8 plate into good metal to repair things effectively.
So I went to a Lincoln mp210, which has newer models out now that do all my welding needs. I also only use Lincoln wire, which for me works the best.
Most folks suggest using Flux core wire wire on rusty oxidized metal, too. You can, and it will work. However, I only weld it with shield gas now because I get better metal penitration with it. Along with a lot less welding splatter.
This is just me, though. I also welded probably 4 or 6 frames now with various methods. All dell different angles with even welding upside down.
My preferred method is still internal frame plating. However, those safety caps do work well, provided you get the inside of the frame cleaned out and rust treated before sealing in.
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7 3rd gens listed in the build thread (2 are parts mobiles)
Build Thread:
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...os-builds.html
Brillo's Bucket Fluid Ex changer:
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...ml#post3358086
Sparks Plugs Wire and Coil Information:
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...on-5vz-fe.html